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#41
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Stan
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Stan Weiss/World Wide Enterprises Offering Performance Software Since 1987 http://www.magneticlynx.com/carfor/carfor.htm David Vizard & Stan Weiss' IOP / Flow / Induction Optimization - Cam Selection Software http://www.magneticlynx.com/DV Download FREE 14 Trial IOP / Flow Software http://www.magneticlynx.com/DV/Flow_..._Day_Trial.php Pontiac Pump Gas List http://www.magneticlynx.com/carfor/pont_gas.htm Using PMD Block and Heads List http://www.magneticlynx.com/carfor/pont_pmd.htm |
#42
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Agreed. I will have to check some time slips to say for sure, but they were pretty crappy like the OPs, I think most are around 1.6, maybe a high 1.5.
Even with decent track prep I have to launch off idle & kind of roll into the throttle otherwise the tires spin like crazy. Have tried foot braking to about 1600-1800 but just seems to make the tire spin worse or lower 60ft times. Most people have said off idle hits the converter harder for better launch, but with zero traction aids & a stiff suspension its hard to get a good launch. Typical street car problems if you want handling performance too. |
#43
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78w72, if you are trying to avoid using traction bars then several things you can do if you haven't already, is to clamp the leaf springs to avoid 'wrapup' on the launch and use a pinion snubber to make sure the pinion angle cannot go positive. Also a good set of adjustable rear shocks is a huge factor. Before I added the Assassin bars I was doing these 3 things and the car would hook about 50% of the time.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#44
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Then try raising the compression rate on the passenger side rear to counteract the axles tendency to lift the right rear tire. You may have to play with this a fair amount before you find the best combination. Some people will unhook the front swaybar mount on the drivers side to help get the front to rise and put more weight on the rear tires. These days recordings of the rear axle movement are easy to obtain and watching them at different playback speeds can be very revealing allowing you to make informed changes. Investing a a good gopro type camera would be worth more than buying parts on bad information.
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If it breaks. I didn't want it in the first place. _____________________________________________ 69 GTO \ 72 FIREBIRD \ 1/2 OF A 64 GTO \ 70 JAVELIN \ 52 FORD PU \ 51 GMC PU \ 29 FORD PU \ 85 ALFA ROMEO SPYDER \ A HANDFUL OF ODD DUCATI'S \ 88 S10 LT1 BLAZER & MY DAILY DRIVER 67 SUBURBAN. |
#45
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Im not really avoiding traction bars, but being mostly a street car i just havent invested in them yet playing with the car at a couple test & tunes per year... need to fix the fuel issue & get a stronger driveshaft if I want to go faster. The PTFB rear leafs are stiffer/stronger than stock springs and dont seem to wrap up much. How/where do guys clamp leafs? I have looked at the assassin & cal trac bars. I have cheaper 3 way adjustable drag shocks front/rear, seem to work best at 50/50 rear & 90/10 front, I remove the front sway bar too for drag use. |
#46
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and for sure those 60 foot times Maybe me weighing 260lbs also hahaha |
The Following User Says Thank You to yellow1098 For This Useful Post: | ||
#47
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forgot to mention im using a full 3" pypes kit with an X pipe. & probably too big 2" hooker super comp headers. stock hei but set up by member "suntuned" to match the combo, think its like 34 max. never played with it on the dyno or at the track.
Ive heard of & seen cars with a good 2.5" system doing low 11s & faster so im not sure its all exhaust on your car, im thinking its traction & launch more. |
#48
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Sounds like you have it pretty well thought out. And you are right about making sure fuel delivery is not an issue. Are you already running 1/2" fuel line? Even on my son's Bird with the 400 we had to go to 1/2 line and a 125gph electric pump to get the job done. Your leaf springs may not be an issue at all but if you do clamp the leaves just the front half of the spring at the overlap point of each leaf to keep the front leaves from separating. Behind the axle you actually want the leaves to separate.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
The Following User Says Thank You to prostreet64 For This Useful Post: | ||
#49
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By the way, your car is running really strong for the limitations that you are working with. And I just saw in your earlier post that you have a Q-jet. Great carbs ! I ran one built by Cliff on my 403 and it was flawless but Cliff will tell you that because of the relatively small float bowl compared to a squarebore double pumper, it is more important than ever to make sure fuel delivery is up to the task.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#50
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Those heads are capable of running in the 9’s easily with the right matched parts. Looser converter, more gear, and a bigger cam. But making more power won’t help much if you can’t get it off of the line without blowing the tires off. I run ladder bars with my leaf springs with housing floaters. It’s an old school setup but works great. Most of the guys run cal tracs and mono leaf springs. Get a set of drag radials. Loosen the front up. Once you get the traction under control them put 4.11’s in it and about 4800 stall built for your engine. Put a cam in there that can take advantage of the 340’s. A good cam that I used to run that got me into the 9.30’s-9.40’s is the 280/284 @.050 with the .440 high torque lobe. That was with E-heads that flowed 328 and a race weight of 3275lbs. Then you will be making some top end power.
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Come take a ride http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7Y8Awfk2I0 2008, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2019 Central Il Dragway Mod track champion and 2015 IHRA Div 5 Mod champion |
#51
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Cliff built this carb & the one on my mild 400 78 TA, both are 78 TA carbs and run excellent out of the box, minor choke & idle screw adjustments is all thats needed. I do have 1/2" line from tank to pump, -8 braided from pump to carb, high flow filters, the robbmc pump works great but on about half of the good low 11 runs it will cut out, plan to verify psi on a run with a gauge soon. but future plan is to go intank pump in a baffled tank... just takes $$$ to go faster but it runs so good as is im somewhat content for now. |
#52
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On both of our cars we added a sump to the factory tank and mounted the electric fuel pump as close to the sump as possible. On a hard launch with 1/2 tank or less you will probably uncover the factory pickup. With the sump we can run down to at least 1/4 tank before it becomes an issue. It is asking a lot for a mechanical pump at the engine to pull sufficient fuel for a car that can run in the low 11s or high 10s.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#53
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#54
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