#1  
Old 08-30-2024, 10:19 PM
MUSLCAH MUSLCAH is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: N.H.
Posts: 1,960
Default

Do you have a nice gap ..from trunk to 1/4 panel on the opposite side ...and the deck lid is level with the 1/4 ???

On the droopy side....you can try pushing that 1/4 up...with a porta power jack...inside the trunk area ...use a 2x4 (12 -16 inches ) or what ever you can fit under that weather strip rail...

Take the tail light out...and run the hydraulic line of the porta power jack through that opening ...hook up the porta power..pump it up slowly....then close the lid ....and pump it up gently and see if you gain anything.

The Following User Says Thank You to MUSLCAH For This Useful Post:
  #2  
Old 09-04-2024, 09:08 PM
lintmann lintmann is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Alberta, Canada eh
Posts: 369
Default

I think I finally got it. I still have lots to do but I think I have the "bones" it of it back to where it was before this shop made such a mess of things. My issue was never about how to move the metal, it was how to know where to and when to stop moving the metal. The gaps are all fine now. My main concern was that I wasn't fooling myself by just looking at the gaps, I also needed to make sure everything was plumb and level so that the car looked proper when viewed from the rear.

I did this by using a straight edge and digital protractor. I first measured on common points from door sill to door sill, then across the parcel tray panel, then the body line ridge on the quarter panels near the rear window and about 2' back on each side and finally on the bumper. All measurements were less than or equal too .1 to .15 degrees. I repeated them all while holding my tongue a different way and got the same basic reading so I figured it was accurate.

So now what, what do they mean? Well the measurement points were all about 5' apart(give or take) so I found an on line calculator that converts degrees to inches, I enter the numbers and it comes up with a dimension of .15" so at most, so worst case it might be just over 1/8" out at one some point which I would think is within GM specs. To verify, I took the car outside to have a good look and everything look proper to me and one of my very critical friends so I think I'm fine.

I get that this is probably a very cumbersome, novice way to try and get everything back to where it should be but it was all I could come up with. I've seen too many nice cars, only to notice that a quarter is too low or a trunk lid fits poorly because the opening isn't proper and with a little more time, that could have been corrected before paint.

If someone has a better Idea that I could have done then I'd still like to hear it, I always like to learn!

  #3  
Old 09-06-2024, 12:52 AM
neill neill is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 57
Default

I like what you have done. To find someone who has the skills to repair something like this is difficult. The only reason I have frame and unbody repair skills these days is because I fix a few race cars here and there. Anything new that gets repaired in my shop gets total lossed before you would replace multiple major panels and for good reason. I would not want to own a modern hybrid or electric vehicle with their complex ADAS systems after severe damage had occurred

__________________
69 Firebird, 462 turbo 400 3000 stall, 8.5 323 rear
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:46 PM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017