[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by 1_Wild_Cat

Hi Greg -- I think the doubled Clecos just allow for securely clamping the panel where is needs to be. You can see that there is a little clip between the two Clecos (Cleci?).

I can certain ask Cam if you have questions...Like why that method instead of another?

No need, makes sense to me that it's probably for a more secure, warp free joint before welding.
I would like to know what he's using to make his cuts? The cut gap between the patches and quarters are so neat and perfectly uniform.

[gtospieg]

That looks like outstanding work there...

[1_Wild_Cat]

Wow, that turned out great!

That looks like outstanding work there...

Thanks guys. Hard to believe there a still people in the world that can start with a flat piece of steel and end up there. I'm glad I got sent to see Cam...

I would like to know what he's using to make his cuts? The cut gap between the patches and quarters are so neat and perfectly uniform.

He makes the initial cut with a .040" cut off wheel about 1/32" above the scribe line. Then sands to the line with a 36 grit sander and hand files as needed.

His tools for this:


This is all the tools used for the finishing and correction...



Thank you everyone for your kind word and for following along.

[1_Wild_Cat]

Hi Everyone --

Cam says: "And with that, all the major body work is done!"

Now we handle some of the "minor" stuff...Then SPI epoxy...Then my shop for everything else...

Yahoo - Progress!

Thanks everyone for following along. And your kind words and encouragement.

The final results on the quarter...

[tempest1964]

Looks amazing!

[ZeGermanHam]

Top notch! Very glad to see progress on this.

[1_Wild_Cat]

Looks amazing!

Top notch! Very glad to see progress on this

Thanks. Feels good to be making real progress again.

[1_Wild_Cat]

Hi Everyone -- A little update for those still following along.

The hits just keep coming...The passenger door was banged up pretty good. Enough that fixing it was easier/faster by removing the skin. Maybe this was a good thing - since the rust laying in the pinch weld can be dealt with.





We will probably remove the skin from the other door too based on the rust. "In for a penny, in for a pound"...

In other news: Paul K hooked me up with a set of Molnar 6.7" rods to go with my Molnar crank. Super nice guy and great to deal with.



The trek continues. Thanks to everyone for following along - I sincerely appreciate it.

[69hardtop]

I have a 64 pass door for parts if you need anything (I’m keeping the glass)

[1_Wild_Cat]

Thanks. I don't think it will come to that - but I'll keep it in mind.

[1_Wild_Cat]

For those following along....

Well - We had traction for a minute. But Cam was roller skating with his daughter recently...and managed to shatter both bones of his lower leg. Rods, screws, plates and 2 surgeries kind of break. Man...he has some tough luck. Looking like 8 weeks for recovery...


Thanks everyone for following along...I really do appreciate you taking this journey with me.

[Cardo]

Uhhhhh! That's rough. You'd better go find something else that needs to be done for a while. Start polishing the stainless or rebuild something... It's gonna be a hot minute before he's back at it.

[1_Wild_Cat]

Hi Everyone -- I can't believe it is true but...It was 9-years ago today that I bought this project.

It was a crazy weekend. I drove Boise to Susanville, California (Friday, 500+ miles). My friend in Susanville - had a diesel truck and enclosed trailer. He had also volunteered to be the "voice of reason". Saturday early we got rolling to Las Vegas (500+ miles) and after getting lost several times in residential areas finally found the car.

The car was rougher than I hoped. And as a basket case the parts were less organized than I would have liked. But I had pulled the PHS - so I knew with certainty it was a factory Tri Power GTO.

With everything invested in going to look at it with truck and trailer in tow, and the old fella selling it leaning on me and dropping the price several times...Well the pressure was intense.

So I stepped away...I walked out to the street and said (out loud) - I am not going to buy it. Funny thing - the pressure just disappeared.

I walked back in - and looked with fresh eyes. It needed a lot. Everything. But one more discount later it was mine.

(The "voice of reason" by the way -- had quietly decided to buy it if I didn't.)

Back to Susanville on Sunday. Back to Boise on Monday. Two weeks later I drove down with another friend and a truck and trailer and brought it home.

Whew...Just remembering all that makes me tired.

I hope you enjoyed the story. And thanks everyone who has been following along. We will get there in the end...(Photos from back then).

[Cardo]

Cool story! You've got to be dedicated to buy in with a basket case! So many people do that and never finish. Glad to see you hanging in there. I have a buddy that bought a basket case 68 Cutlass 442 convertible. He brought it home 3 or 4 years ago and hasn't touched it. Says it's too intimidating.... I'm sure he'll sell it if there's anyone out there looking for one! I brought my LeMans home in boxes. Some assembly is required.

[1_Wild_Cat]

Thanks Cardo. At least 64s are still relatively simple especially a low-optioned car. I'm sure that there are some little things that will trip me up along the way. Honestly, even on the cars I've taken apart and put back together there are always a few areas that throw me (and my memory/notes) a curve ball. Look how good your Lemans came out! (It can be done).

In other news -- Cam is back at work for the last couple of weeks. He has been working on a client's Nova - not the GTO. (The work on the Nova is easier on his leg - some can be done sitting down). Moving back to the GTO soon though.

We will get there...eventually.

[Brad_bb]

The heads and intake are not too hard to find I think. But you have to think about how important looking original is compared to having fun and going fast. That money might be better spent building a more powerful engine, but that's up to you. Regarding manual transmissions, I've watched a youtube channel called gearboxvideo with Paul Cangialosi. His product site is 5speeds.com. Paul builds brand new Muncies with his own custom housings that are upgraded from the oem, and I think all of his M20's, M21's, and M22's are made with the larger 1" countershaft. I think he has all of the shafts and gears etc made with upgrades to get rid of the weak points of the Oem Muncies. He will also take your original housing and machine it for the upgrades and all new internals. I'm on the fence on what trans I'm going to put in my 64. I have the same trans that OMT talked about that I got form Paul years ago. But I'm reconsidering and might have him build me an M20 with my housing. On another note, a common problem with 64 frames that had a manual transmission, is a broken rear crossmember on the passenger side due to the twisting under load. Brackets were made late in production to reinforce for the twist and I found an original set and I also bought a reproduction set years ago. They bolt on to the rear lower arm bracket and the crossmember. Check your car to see if the crossmember is cracked or broken where it is welded to the frame, also check the upper spring plate that will either be riveted or welded to the rear crossmember. My Silver 64 had the broken weld at the frame and either that frame or my other one had the broken upper plate connection.

[1_Wild_Cat]

Hi Brad – Thanks for following along. I have always preferred stock-appearing rides with stronger than stock performance. It occurs to me that I haven’t done a summary update on the project since the beginning so here is where it’s at now.

Engine:

The date and code correct block (probably original) that came with the car is cleaned up and stashed away. I know I have a heavy foot and see no reason to risk it.

The block I have for the engine build is a 64 – 389 big car block in standard bore. This block will get the full treatment at the machine shop. I have a Molnar 4-inch stroke forged crank and 6.7-inch Molnar BBC rods for the rotating assembly. It will end up with custom pistons. Final displacement isn’t set yet (probably 413-425 cid). The cam is up in the air – but it won’t be a roller. Currently leaning toward a traditional solid lifter.

I have picked up two sets of 1964 – #716 heads and one 1964 – Tri Power intake. Heads and intake will get worked over – port work, etc. I have a set of Doug’s headers.

The goal is an honest 1-hp/cid; about 425 hp. Should make killer torque.

Transmission:

I have bought parts from 5speeds.com in the past but thanks for the reference. I still have the M22 that came with the car and I’m still not planning on running it. A little while ago a purchased an Autogear M20 (never run) from a local guy who had a long term project and decided to go with the TKX. (I love it when people buy expensive parts and then change their mind). That transmission has most of the trick stuff – their “super case”, upgraded mid-plate, etc.

Suspension:

The cross member in this car has been welded at the control arm attachments. The top riveted area looks OK (I think). I have to decide whether to clean-up the welds that are there or to replace the cross-member with a salvage piece. It will be getting the reinforcement brackets. It will also probably be getting adjustable upper arms.

The car is going to the frame shop as soon as I get it back from Cam. The body sat down on the frame well when I put body mounts under it – but it has been in too many wrecks for me to trust it is OK without checking.



Thanks again for everyone following along on this journey.

[Brad_bb]

One thing to watch for, wherever it’s been welded at the frame rail, look for spider cracks around the weld and that area of the frame rail. When we re-welded mine, we had to chase a bunch of spider cracks.. This tells me that the frame was heat treated somehow..

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by Brad_bb

One thing to watch for, wherever it’s been welded at the frame rail, look for spider cracks around the weld and that area of the frame rail. When we re-welded mine, we had to chase a bunch of spider cracks.. This tells me that the frame was heat treated somehow..

Feel free to ignore but I'm always interested in how stuff fails. Were these cracks in the weld material or in the frame? If in the frame, is it possible these cracks were already there and caused by fatigue, but the heat of the welding process caused them to open up or propagate? This would make some sense to me, given the need to repair was likely a result of fatigue failure.

I'll admit to being skeptical about a frame being heat-treated, given the size of it and the economics.

Does anyone know what alloy was used in these frames? I would expect a cold-rolled low-carbon steel, but I'm just guessing.

Mike

[Brad_bb]

The spider webbing cracks were in the frame emanating from the weld point. I’m sure they were from fatigue. The constant twisting of the frame, and as it proved, was not properly braced, thus the need for the braces late in production and in 65. I have no proof that the frames are heat treated, but I suspect they are. Stiffer frame with a lighter weight. I know that steel rims in the 50s were much softer than the steel rims in the 60s, and I believe they were either heat treated or a stiffer alloy. You can definitely tell the difference between my 55 Chevy steel wheels and mid 60s GM steel wheels. The 50s wheels are much more prone to deformation and damage.