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Old 01-10-2025, 08:58 PM
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Rachelsdad Rachelsdad is offline
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Location: Long Island, NY
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ACC is fairly good replacement carpet. Aside from material and color, the cut and finish is important. I got ACC from Ames for my '63 about 20 years ago, and it has been on the shelf ever since. I finally had the interior work done last May, and the upholstery shop didn't want to use it, concerned that it had dried in the intervening years. So, add freshness to the list of criteria (though I am not sure that these things are date coded at all, even today).

As for DIY, generally, carpet will come in two pieces: one for the front and one for the back. Remove sills, seats, seat belt floor mounts, console (if applicable), and kick panels.

Inspect for rust and general floorboard condition, and repair as necessary (with metal, as in cut out the rusted metal, weld new, undercoat outside, and then apply some primer and color (with rust inhibitor) inside before adding sound deadener.

Sound deadener is generally available in sheets, with a self-adhesive backing (or factory heavy tar content pre-cut pieces and mastic). I highly recommend a good, modern deadener, such as DynaMat or equivalent. The internet is replete with reviews for different brands and offerings. The sheets cut fairly easily, and there is a roller tool used to get it to form and solidly stick to the floor. It's not brain work, just grunt work, really, but it pays off really well.

Install the rear carpet first, and then install the front. The binding on the edge will overlap the "other" piece. You need to pay attention up front to the heel plate under the pedals (note the way your original carpet is positioned before removing it). Be sure to mark/puncture holes for seat and seatbelt mountings as you go. Also be mindful when working up front to get the carpet far enough "up" the firewall (again paying attention to the heel plate location; sometimes, it's a compromise between where you want the heel plate and how far up the firewall you want the carpet and pad to reach).

Wrap up by reinstalling the seats, belts, console (if applicable), kick panels, and sills.

The last time I did one from scratch was decades ago, but I remember the hardest part was slowly working the carpet over and around the hump up front to avoid wrinkles and sags. Other than that, it was pretty straightforward.

HTH and GL

__________________
Lewis
--------------------------
Lewis Rosenthal
'63 Bonneville Convertible
'56 Safari
'82 Firebird SE
POCI #3596 (since 1978)

Last edited by Rachelsdad; 01-10-2025 at 09:02 PM. Reason: added mention of console to reassembly
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  #2  
Old 01-11-2025, 11:22 AM
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Masaki Masaki is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2024
Location: Oregon City
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachelsdad View Post
ACC is fairly good replacement carpet. Aside from material and color, the cut and finish is important. I got ACC from Ames for my '63 about 20 years ago, and it has been on the shelf ever since. I finally had the interior work done last May, and the upholstery shop didn't want to use it, concerned that it had dried in the intervening years. So, add freshness to the list of criteria (though I am not sure that these things are date coded at all, even today).

As for DIY, generally, carpet will come in two pieces: one for the front and one for the back. Remove sills, seats, seat belt floor mounts, console (if applicable), and kick panels.

Inspect for rust and general floorboard condition, and repair as necessary (with metal, as in cut out the rusted metal, weld new, undercoat outside, and then apply some primer and color (with rust inhibitor) inside before adding sound deadener.

Sound deadener is generally available in sheets, with a self-adhesive backing (or factory heavy tar content pre-cut pieces and mastic). I highly recommend a good, modern deadener, such as DynaMat or equivalent. The internet is replete with reviews for different brands and offerings. The sheets cut fairly easily, and there is a roller tool used to get it to form and solidly stick to the floor. It's not brain work, just grunt work, really, but it pays off really well.

Install the rear carpet first, and then install the front. The binding on the edge will overlap the "other" piece. You need to pay attention up front to the heel plate under the pedals (note the way your original carpet is positioned before removing it). Be sure to mark/puncture holes for seat and seatbelt mountings as you go. Also be mindful when working up front to get the carpet far enough "up" the firewall (again paying attention to the heel plate location; sometimes, it's a compromise between where you want the heel plate and how far up the firewall you want the carpet and pad to reach).

Wrap up by reinstalling the seats, belts, console (if applicable), kick panels, and sills.

The last time I did one from scratch was decades ago, but I remember the hardest part was slowly working the carpet over and around the hump up front to avoid wrinkles and sags. Other than that, it was pretty straightforward.

HTH and GL

One of the best responses I’ve gotten! This will 100% help me. I’ll save this for the future . I have no carpet in right now as I’ve just purchased the floor pans. What seam sealer would you recommend for the welds??? I do t want it rusting through after the years. It’s been parked outside for 20 odd years and I don’t see it being garaged any time soon.


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