[Joog]

Originally Posted by Tom63LeMans

Here are a few pictures showing crossmember and brackets for the motor mounts and midplate I used the Speedway biscuit motor mounts but then used aluminum spacers in place of the rubber mounts. With the mounts moved back like I did I might have been ok without the midplate but didn’t want to chance it. I also found a few pictures of my rear crossmember if you’re interested.

Thank you! If I understand this right, you just welded the bracket along the sides of the frame facing the motor, and maybe welded some on the bottom side of the frame?

[Tom63LeMans]

Originally Posted by Joog

Thank you! If I understand this right, you just welded the bracket along the sides of the frame facing the motor, and maybe welded some on the bottom side of the frame?

I went back and looked at the pictures and then recalled how big of a job it really was to patch the frame after removing the crossmember. I removed the complete crossmember where it was riveted to the frame rails. Then I plated the insides and also the bottom opening for the springs. The new crossmember is notched so it’s welded inside the rails and underneath like you mentioned. It was the new plates that strengthened what was left of the frame and gave me a good surface for attaching the cross rail for the motor mounts

[Joog]

Originally Posted by Tom63LeMans

I went back and looked at the pictures and then recalled how big of a job it really was to patch the frame after removing the crossmember. I removed the complete crossmember where it was riveted to the frame rails. Then I plated the insides and also the bottom opening for the springs. The new crossmember is notched so it’s welded inside the rails and underneath like you mentioned. It was the new plates that strengthened what was left of the frame and gave me a good surface for attaching the cross rail for the motor mounts

Thanks for the info! And I saw your headers, I'm guessing you custom made those yourself? I was thinking about trying to find SBC fenderwell headers and cutting the flange off, then bending the tubes and tweaking them to work with a 400 flange. Since I don't have the patience or skills to do a whole custom header myself.

[Tom63LeMans]

Originally Posted by Joog

Thanks for the info! And I saw your headers, I'm guessing you custom made those yourself? I was thinking about trying to find SBC fenderwell headers and cutting the flange off, then bending the tubes and tweaking them to work with a 400 flange. Since I don't have the patience or skills to do a whole custom header myself.

I used BBC Patriot headers for tri-5 Chevies to build mine. I think they are 2” primary tubes. That worked great for these since I’m running round port Edelbrock heads. If D-ports and not heavily ported SBC 1-3/4 tubes should work. Since I kept my original steering box and location the upward turns have to happen quickly.

[Joog]

Originally Posted by Tom63LeMans

I used BBC Patriot headers for tri-5 Chevies to build mine. I think they are 2” primary tubes. That worked great for these since I’m running round port Edelbrock heads. If D-ports and not heavily ported SBC 1-3/4 tubes should work. Since I kept my original steering box and location the upward turns have to happen quickly.

You think the 1-3/4 chevy headers would work fine without modification?

[Tom63LeMans]

Originally Posted by Joog

You think the 1-3/4 chevy headers would work fine without modification?

No they would require cutting the flanges off and attaching new flanges with tubing bends. All I was saying is that SBC headers with 1-3/4” primaries would be of sufficient size for standard D port heads.
This picture shows what part of the BBC headers I used and how far off they were from my stubbed flanges. All of that gap was made up with tubing bends of various angles

[Joog]

Originally Posted by Tom63LeMans

No they would require cutting the flanges off and attaching new flanges with tubing bends. All I was saying is that SBC headers with 1-3/4” primaries would be of sufficient size for standard D port heads.
This picture shows what part of the BBC headers I used and how far off they were from my stubbed flanges. All of that gap was made up with tubing bends of various angles

Alright, that’s what I was thinking. Did you just buy extra of straight tube and bend it yourself? Or did you get one of those pre bent kits?