| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I believe I used #2 when I ran mine, but the car was sold about 6 years ago, so I can't verify what size I used. You might want to look at used welding cables through Marketplace on a ground the insulation having some nicks is irrelevant. Sometimes people sell welding cable on there pretty reasonably. Inoperative stick welder would be another possibility to find some bargain leads. I've also heard of people buying 20 ft HD jumper cables, and cutting the clamps off, might save some money there. Geoff is adamant that steel is best, I guess 1 inch rebar would be a whole lot cheaper................. Tough to bend though.I'm thinking that next set of jumper cables I buy should be solid steel wire rope, like a cable excavator uses, instead of copper wire. |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Not all battery cables are created the same, and some can perform less than another even among the same gauge.
Age also effects stranded cable, it just won't last forever, and the longer the run, the shorter the life span. Use SGT or SGX cable for batteries and you will avoid a lot of that. Welding cable is easier to run, easier to bend, but it won't last as long as SGT or SGX cable. SGX cable has near the same flexibility as welding cable but will last longer. There's a resistance difference too. In general, you can use one or two sizes smaller SGT/SGX cable as compared to welding cable. (Depending on brand and quality). SGT/SGX is a standard, 'welding' cable needs to be EPDM to equal SGT/SGX (nearly). I've made my own battery wires for like 20+ years, remember to use quality connectors, it makes a big difference. I don't use the typical clamp-style battery connectors anymore, only use ring/eyelet ends on cables. You can buy marine clamp-style if you want, makes it easier to swap out the ends and not have to muck with the cables. Otherwise, just use batteries that have marine type posts or side posts. When doing grounds to a frame, use a thread-sert or riv-nuts. They crush to the frame and make a solid contact the entire circumference. It helps seal out moisture too. Star washers suffer from not making a full/good contact. .
__________________
. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be Last edited by HWYSTR455; 01-30-2025 at 02:44 PM. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to HWYSTR455 For This Useful Post: | ||
| Reply |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|