[tooski]

Torker 1 with 600 vac Holley and headers turned my 350 from 15.8 sec into a 15.7 sec screamer in the 1/4.

[scott70]

A torquer 1 intake killed my low end torque on a street geared 455 ,, installed a factory intake and you’d thought it had gained 100 hp. That’s intake belongs no where near a 350. A performer intake or stock iron would be perfect.

[Sirrotica]

I've always found that the T I Torker isn't suitable for any street driven car. Edelbrock stumbled with this intake during development, and it took them forever to get it to market, they never however got it right before release. The main thing is naming it a "Torker" when all it accomplishes is a low end loss of torque.

The rear half of the manifold does work, and that is substantiated by S/S racers cutting 2 back halves and welding them back together. If you want to have a 50% efficient manifold, they got you covered.

I screwed around with one on a 428 circle track engine modifying it with a divider plate etc. and never got any better results than a good dual plane, or a Holley street dominator. If you want a good single plane street intake, the HSD is a much better choice. I've never tried the T II intake, so I can't comment, but from documented write ups it is a butt load better than the T I. If the T I was a success, there would be no need, nor market for a T II intake.

Holley made their single plane intake much better that Edelbrocks first attempt at a Pontiac single plane. Like the adage that you don't hit a home run every time you step up to the plate, this was Edelbrocks strike out.

You can take a good running street engine and swap a TI, and make it run like a turd. I have seen it over and over where you lose performance, especially low end by swapping a TI over a stock factory cast iron engine.

The T I should probably be relegated to a lightweight doorstop, or a conversational starter for a coffee table. If you have 2 of them you could cut and splice them together to make a S/S intake for 7000 RPM drag engine.

The engineers at Pontiac made a very good cast iron intake, the aftermarkets attempts at making better intakes that showed a night and day difference in performance haven't been all that inspiring, especially for street engines. It's tough to beat the Pontiac intake, except for the weight factor.

[srmmmm]

350/413 stroker with 9.3 CR
6X-4 Heads
Comp XE276HR w/1.5 rockers
800cfm Q-Jet
442 LB FT@4300
453HP@5600

I'm happy with my port matched Torker-I. Give it a chance with a good carb.
Haven't had a chance to run it down the strip yet, but with a 2600 stall converter and 3.23 gears it will spin the tires all the way through 1st gear. Well, I should say it would until the intermediate sprag detonatated in the transmission.

[mgarblik]

With all the truly horrible factory intake manifolds produced by other manufacturers, I can see the need for aftermarket solutions/improvements. As mentioned, Pontiac was not among them. Their factory dual plane intakes were excellent, an "air gap" design and a semi-high rise. Reinventing the wheel for a Pontiac dual plane was a fool's errand IMO. Other than a few lbs. nothing to be gained. And millions were produced and still inexpensive.

[scott70]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

I've always found that the T I Torker isn't suitable for any street driven car. Edelbrock stumbled with this intake during development, and it took them forever to get it to market, they never however got it right before release. The main thing is naming it a "Torker" when all it accomplishes is a low end loss of torque.

The rear half of the manifold does work, and that is substantiated by S/S racers cutting 2 back halves and welding them back together. If you want to have a 50% efficient manifold, they got you covered.

I screwed around with one on a 428 circle track engine modifying it with a divider plate etc. and never got any better results than a good dual plane, or a Holley street dominator. If you want a good single plane street intake, the HSD is a much better choice. I've never tried the T II intake, so I can't comment, but from documented write ups it is a butt load better than the T I. If the T I was a success, there would be no need, nor market for a T II intake.

Holley made their single plane intake much better that Edelbrocks first attempt at a Pontiac single plane. Like the adage that you don't hit a home run every time you step up to the plate, this was Edelbrocks strike out.

You can take a good running street engine and swap a TI, and make it run like a turd. I have seen it over and over where you lose performance, especially low end by swapping a TI over a stock factory cast iron engine.

The T I should probably be relegated to a lightweight doorstop, or a conversational starter for a coffee table. If you have 2 of them you could cut and splice them together to make a S/S intake for 7000 RPM drag engine.

The engineers at Pontiac made a very good cast iron intake, the aftermarkets attempts at making better intakes that showed a night and day difference in performance haven't been all that inspiring, especially for street engines. It's tough to beat the Pontiac intake, except for the weight factor.

I ran a T2 intake for quite a while. Good intake for a car with mild modifications . Port’s aren’t huge so it still had good low end.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by scott70

I ran a T2 intake for quite a while. Good intake for a car with mild modifications . Port’s aren’t huge so it still had good low end.

I haven't run one on a smaller inch Pontiac, but I agree this is a good manifold. I've had it in stock form on a mild 455 and a wild 455 now with just a port match to 310cfm KRE Dports. It makes torque everywhere.

Unless something bigger is needed, I recommend the TII for anybody that is running any sort of throttle body injection system. I observed much better fuel distribution with the TII vs a dual plane manifold.

I wouldn't be afraid of a TII on a 350 either.

I still think for right now while the OP is working on the car and sorting it, I would at least try the combination that he currently has. Not because it's the best combination, but because the car probably needs money elsewhere if the engine is otherwise running decent.

[NateOld687]

The floor shifter top and bottom also the loose wire coming from my trans, I think the loose wire from trans is for cruise?

[johnta1]

oem neutral safety switch attached underneath the dash around the steering column aswell..

This is what you need to get working for the neutral switch.
The purple wire(s) are what go to the starter from the inside switch.
Since the original column is swapped, probably no back drive linkage (as was said).

Most when using a different shifter or with headers (as said) makeshift a switch on the new shifter using the 2 purple wires.

But you need to know there is a lot of current going through it when cranking.
Some use a relay from shifter micro switch to run the power to the starter.

The reverse light will not work either (or on all the time if in right position) when the back drive linkage is gone.
(needs another switch setup)

[NateOld687]

I am going to remove intake manifold and valley pan tonight for starters and see what I disco er

[NateOld687]

I need some help trying to diagnose why my brake lights and rear blinkers don't work..I have a full 12v at all the sockets and brand new bulbs and fuses installed..now when I turn my lights on the rear tail lights turn on but still no brake lights and no blinkers blinking, the blinkers do work in front btw and I cleaned up all the grounds in the back.

[NateOld687]

So I took the cover off of the floor shifter and there are no micro switches or wiring anywhere near it, crawled underneath and same thing no switches or wires..now the old column shift neutral safety switch is still there and all plugged in aswell..I'm pretty confused as to what to do..I'll take some pictures here shortly and do a show and tell 😀