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#1
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0awg battery ground
4awg alternator positive post to battery (.02v loss) I should've included the Awg part, my badd. Big battery and alternator grounds really helped my car.
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69 GTO Convertible, 4000lbs 462ci, 606tq/569hp - 93 oct @ 34 deg (207psi) 11.7:1, KRE H Ports, Lunati HR 282/290 w Johnson Lifters & 1.65 Scorp, E30, EFI, Holley HP + Dual Sync, 12-1 Crank Trig, 120lb Inj & 1000cfm TB, Torker II EFI Int & Rails, PTC 10", Rock Valley SS Tank, Dual 450s, Aerom EFI Reg, Aero Front & Wilwood Rear Disc Brakes, Dougs 1 7/8" & Borla Pro XS 3", Alum Rad & Dual Fans, 12:1 Box, UMI Arms & Viking Berz Fr + Rear CO Shocks, Hella UP5.0 Vac Pump, 12 Bolt, 3.73, 33 Spline |
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#2
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Probably a bit on the huge side, but not horrible, and no harm done except the extra weight.
What size is the battery-to-Starter cable? 4-gauge? There is NO reason to have one side of the circuit four gauge sizes larger than the other side of the circuit. Unless you've got some monster alternator, AND heavy electrical loads, that's just silly. That's starter-cable size, not alternator size. Hanging that much copper off of the lil' stud on the alternator is risky. Factory gauge would have been...10 or perhaps 8. Six-gauge would easily be enough of an "upgrade". Around here, the parts stores are stocking 6-gauge cables on the display rack as BATTERY CABLES. (Yes, that's way undersized for a battery cable for anything with a real engine.) WHAT is your starter-motor amperage draw? The old 10MT, "High Torque" starters on select big-block cars would draw up to 225 amps, but most vehicles were between 170--200. WHAT is your alternator output in actual testing by lowering battery voltage with a carbon-pile? (Not the phonied-up "rating", over-estimated for marketing purposes.) |
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