[steve25]

Even if you were now going to shift now at 6400 rpm there’s no need for better rods .

If you want more of a safety margin out of those rods then have stronger rod bolts installed and then resize the rods as needed.

[scott70]

Yeah, I’m not sure what’s in it for Rod bolts. I would’ve hoped that they were a decent rod that they would’ve come with ARP’s.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by scott70

Yeah, I’m not sure what’s in it for Rod bolts. I would’ve hoped that they were a decent rod that they would’ve come with ARP’s.

Most of the rods Ace sold had ARP bolts installed. “I” beam or “H” beam rods?

[scott70]

I actually found some pics from like 6 years ago when the engine was apart . I don’t see any markings on the rods but in one pic I can see arp on the bolt head. Should be ok for what I do? Obviously they’ve hung in there since 2012 but I was just thinking if it really should have a better rod? Maybe not? I just don’t know what they really are as far as quality.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by scott70

I actually found some pics from like 6 years ago when the engine was apart . I don’t see any markings on the rods but in one pic I can see arp on the bolt head. Should be ok for what I do? Obviously they’ve hung in there since 2012 but I was just thinking if it really should have a better rod? Maybe not? I just don’t know what they really are as far as quality.

Those resemble the 5140 alloy rods Ace sold. He also sold 4340 rods but they were “H” beams. As many have already said, replace the bolts and have the rods reconditioned. I would add to have the rods magnafluxed as well.

[scott70]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Those resemble the 5140 alloy rods Ace sold. He also sold 4340 rods but they were “H” beams. As many have already said, replace the bolts and have the rods reconditioned. I would add to have the rods magnafluxed as well.

These are probably the 5140 then. I do remember 2 different numbers, those are probably it. Replace the current arp bolts?

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by scott70

These are probably the 5140 then. I do remember 2 different numbers, those are probably it. Replace the current arp bolts?

Absolutely. You have no idea IF they were installed and torqued correctly. I view new rod bolts as cheap insurance.

[PunchT37]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Those resemble the 5140 alloy rods Ace sold. He also sold 4340 rods but they were “H” beams. As many have already said, replace the bolts and have the rods reconditioned. I would add to have the rods magnafluxed as well.

I have some 4340 I beams from Ace. Full float.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by PunchT37

I have some 4340 I beams from Ace. Full float.

I have a set of 6.8s.
Story on those rods right from the horses mouth. One day at RPM a guy came in with a set of Crower Billet rods and asked the head guy at RPM if they could copy them. They did just that.
I wish the cap was a little beefier though. Someday I will put them to use on a milder engine. I have Molnar rods and a real set of Crower billets for heavier duty stuff.
If anyone knows where I can find a couple of Crower mid weightish BBC 6.8s let me know.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by PunchT37

I have some 4340 I beams from Ace. Full float.

Nearly all the 4340 rods I have seen that were sold by Ace were “H” beams, but I do recall RPM International ( Ace’s source) did sell an “ultra light” 4340 “I” beam rod.