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Old 09-13-2025, 01:25 PM
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scott70 scott70 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
5th time being pulled up, assuming they were sized (or checked) on the original build, and sized this upcoming time. But in my opinion, the bolts would still be good to use.

If you're leery about it, replace the bolts, and get the upgraded ones. Now would be the time to do that if you're having the rods sized.

I agree, top bearing half looks beaten from det. It's possible it's from being out of round, if the rods weren't originally sized/checked, but personally, I would replace the bolts, have them sized, and the crank checked too.

If you are going internally balanced, don't forget you need a neutral balancer, and would recommend an SFI one (if you don't already have one).


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I use a pb1056ss. Internal balance it says. I put it on about 3-4 years ago, replacing the original balancer. The engine was originally balanced with the OEM balancer. When I put this on, I really wasn’t thinking of the balance, but it didn’t seem to affect it all.. sounds like a good idea if I get into this motor, which I probably will is to upgrade and replace the rod bolts. I find it odd that I don’t see any markings on these connecting rods at all saying a part number or a company. Or something.

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Old 09-14-2025, 08:17 AM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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If you get stuck with a rod bolt issue, and want to stay press-fit, the Eagles are fairly inexpensive, think they are in the $375-$400 range.

After going thru the rods you have, you may be close to that anyway.

Obviously, if you go floating, pretty sure you would need new pistons, and then the project-creep sets in.

The 4.25 balanced stroker kits are the least expensive out there, and if you add all your cleanup/rebuild costs up, you may be close to one of those anyway. The Butler ones are around $2400, think others vendors may be less, but that's a pretty good deal.



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