[HWYSTR455]

I've never had to use a shield or wrap with a mini starter. The draw is less than an OE delco starter, due to gear reduction, that's one of the points of using one.

One thing to look out for tho is you need to make sure the positive post on the starter/sol is at least an inch from any ground, and use a boot if possible. Block and header are common arc points.

The initial hit when you turn the key can jump to a surrounding ground. Have personally experienced this. Everything was 'right', but with minimal heat up, it would arc, and not spin as good. Had a friend watching when it happened, he saw it arc, and then I found the post was arcing to the block, paint was burned off.

For me, it was the terminal body on the 'battery' wire the boot I had didn't cover the end of the terminal. Now when I put the terminal on the post, I position it so it points forward, due to the type of headers I have, and gives plenty of space. I remember one of the mini starters I had the post was on the block side, and the one I have now is on the header side.

You can also bend the end of the terminal to gain space, in one direction or the other.

I always use a remote starter sol now too, not sure how much that helps, but I sure feel more comfy not having the wires run hot down there while engine is running. I move the charge wire too, obviously.

EDIT: I also use a ram air harness battery tube, and run it on the rear of the driver side head pointing down & forward. You can route the wire towards the starter on the block side.

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[HWYSTR455]

Here's a crappy pic of what I'm talking about, it's a little hard to make out some of the surrounding areas & clearances, but I wasn't going to jack it up and slide under it to get a better pic.

The Yellow arrow is the block pan rail.

The Red arrow is the ram air battery tube.

The Blue arrow is a header tube. (manifolds may have more clearance).

So this obviously is a mini starter that the batt post is on the block side, so had that backwards when I mentioned it before.

When using the batt tube that runs between ports 5 & 7, be it manifolds or headers, you're inclined to orient the batt cable pointing up, and that makes even closer to the pan rail, and you can see how not having a end of the terminal insulated could be a problem. And you can only bend the terminal towards the starter sol so much, which isn't enough.

Also added a pic of the ram air tube.

EDIT: With the batt tube on the lowest head bolt hole on back, you have room to 'swing' the tube to point more on the block side, or the header/manifold side, depending on your setup, to orient the batt cable to get best clearances.

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