[Goatracer1]

The front suspension is way more complicated than a car from the 1960's. If you are careful you can fix any of it. The engine is fairly simple to work on. Don't fool with the auto trans. Find someone who is familiar with them. You can't find anything with a much simpler electrical system. If you should have any charging system problems replace everything with an internal regulator alternator. Brakes are simple drums with no self adjusters. Very easy to repair. Vacuum windshield wipers suck but do usually work. Star Chief might have electric ones. There is a nice kit to convert vacuum ones to electric that is very easy to install. Don't try to install large tires in the rear. They will fit if you can get them in but getting them into the wheel well is a bitch. Be careful trying to swap later parts. Most stuff from 1955-57 can be used but later stuff won't easily fit. The doors, glass and weatherstripping are the same as a 1955-57 Chevy. Rock Auto does have some parts and a good source is Ames Performance. Good luck and if you need help just ask.

[Parkman51]

That's very helpful, Goatracer, I'm going to make notes of all that. A few follow-up questions for you (and some new questions later).

-Why is it that the suspension in a '55 is more complicated than one from the '60s?
-What's the link for the vacuum-electric wiper conversion kit?
-I've read that it may be advantageous to convert the drum brakes to disc brakes, and I already think I need a new master cylinder. Assuming I have to replace the master cylinder, is it worth the upgrade or should I stick with the drum system? I'm not planning to race this car or do anything high-performance with it, if that helps.

And new questions:
I want to install lap belts, does this require welding or is it something that can be done with hand tools? And where can I find a good kit to do this - Ames and RockAuto don't seem to have them.
The car has sat for an unspecified amount of time in the previous owner's garage and the gas has probably turned to varnish. Advice on a complete drain and flush of the fuel system? Any "don't forget this"es or "try this product"s?

[Parkman51]

Alright, the fuel tank is removed and drained. That was an interesting bit of mechanical Tetris. It looks to be in remarkably good condition - I can't really see any rust.

No luck on the dash lights, but for the horn, I did find a disconnected wire on the junction block next to the driver's side horn. I highly suspect this to be the culprit but didn't get to reconnecting it today.

I've been having a lot of fun watching the video you linked, Sirrotica. My engine bay looks a lot fuller than theirs, I think due to a/c equipment, but you'll be able to tell better than I from the pictures.

Tomorrow I'll get a gallon or so of gas and rinse the tank, then re-drain it. The tank drain plug tries to leak, so I'll replace the plastic washer if I can find one. What should I do (if anything) to the fuel pump? I assume replacing the fuel filter is a given, but I haven't been inside a fuel pump before. Goatracer mentioned something about a 'sending unit' to be addressed while the tank was out, too. Also going to locate that fuse box (thanks for the tip, Larry) and replace any bad fuses - most are 7.5 amp, according to page 12-34 in the Shop Manual.

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by Parkman51

No luck on the dash lights, but for the horn, I did find a disconnected wire on the junction block next to the driver's side horn. I highly suspect this to be the culprit but didn't get to reconnecting it today.

Don't be surprised if the horn honks continuously (or intermittently when you turn the steering wheel) when you reconnect the wire. Disconnecting this wire is a "fix" for the wire's insulation rubbing off up inside the steering column and touching ground to activate the horn relay.

Originally Posted by Parkman51

Goatracer mentioned something about a 'sending unit' to be addressed while the tank was out, too.

You can test the sending unit by removing it from the tank (most GM vehicles used 5 screws to hold it into the tank, Pontiac used the same gasket [GM part number 1516395] from 1935 thru at least 1960, my '57 GMC pickup used the same gasket ) and using an ohm meter to check from the post where the wire attaches to any metal on the attaching flange. Most GM vehicles of this vintage used 0 ohms empty, 30 ohms full. Attach the ohm meter and slowly move the float from empty (zero ohms) to full (30 ohms). The change in ohms reading should be linear. There shouldn't be any rapid changes in ohms or any readings much over 30 ohms.

[Parkman51]

It worked!



Today's two questions:
1: How do I test the vacuum tank?
2: I've looked at the shop manual, but it's just not making sense: how do I drain the coolant? Shop manual says there are 3 drain cocks - one on the radiator lower tank and two on the engine block - but when I poke my nose under the front all I see is a mystery-maze of metal. I see nothing I can identify as a 'lower tank,' - the radiator lower hose seems to go to the engine - and I'm not sure where on the engine to look, either. There's a round hole (6" or so) in one of the metal plates under the car, through which I can see two bolts, but those don't look like 'drain cocks' to me.

[Parkman51]

Today I installed a new fuel line bridge hose - there was no reason to use the old one when a new one was so cheap, and the old one was kinked anyway. New hose clamps too.



Goatracer, the sending unit is a reproduction, but it looks almost identical to the new one (I've posted pictures of both - the old one when I pulled it out, and the new one when it came in the mail). I think it'll work fine on the inside, I'm just wondering how I should best connect it up.

Rachelsdad, that's great advice. I don't intend to show this car, so I don't mind using a modern motor - but at the same time, I'm against drilling holes or making substantial changes. I need a car that works, but I'm reluctant to do anything that can't be undone. Owning a regularly-driven classic car feels like a balance between a motorist's necessity and a historian's responsibility - having been blessed with such a beautiful piece of machinery, it's my job to preserve it, in the best condition possible, for posterity.

Tomorrow, we shall see if we can dislodge any of the coolant ports! If we can, then I'll drain as much coolant as possible and flush extensively. If not, the coolant job will have to wait until I get a replacement lower hose, and we'll get at it that way. At some point in the future, I'll take the car in to a reputable shop to get a tune-up, and assuming any of the plugs remain stuck, I'll see if they can dislodge them at that time.

Today's two questions:
1. What should I do about the fuel line mismatch? Should I try to bend the lines and see what happens? With or without heating? Should I get some extra line and just connect them where they sit?



2. Reading the service manual, it says the oil should only be changed when the engine is warm, as the old oil will flow out better. Originally I planned to change the oil before starting the engine, but now I think I should wait. Recommendations?

[Rachelsdad]

Originally Posted by Parkman51

Rachelsdad, that's great advice. I don't intend to show this car, so I don't mind using a modern motor - but at the same time, I'm against drilling holes or making substantial changes. I need a car that works, but I'm reluctant to do anything that can't be undone. Owning a regularly-driven classic car feels like a balance between a motorist's necessity and a historian's responsibility - having been blessed with such a beautiful piece of machinery, it's my job to preserve it, in the best condition possible, for posterity.

It truly is a balance. This is why I run Coker bias-look radials on my '63 (because being old enough to have driven on bias-ply tires, I know I don't want to do that anymore). I also agree that having the ability to return the car to stock-stock is important for the preservation of the history. This balance is why even the AACA makes exceptions for some things, such as dual master cylinders on cars which were never so equipped when new. (And one of my favorites is the steering column mounted turn signal unit for cars where turn signals were optional equipment.)

My philosophy is that as long as the "upgrade" has purpose and does not detract from the overall look of the vehicle, it's probably fine.

Tomorrow, we shall see if we can dislodge any of the coolant ports! If we can, then I'll drain as much coolant as possible and flush extensively. If not, the coolant job will have to wait until I get a replacement lower hose, and we'll get at it that way. At some point in the future, I'll take the car in to a reputable shop to get a tune-up, and assuming any of the plugs remain stuck, I'll see if they can dislodge them at that time.

With all that you're doing, I'd say taking the car somewhere for a tune-up would be a waste of time and money. By the time you get to the point of changing plugs, points, cap, rotor, and wires, you'll likely know more about this car than anyone you're likely to encounter at any shop local to you, anyway. (Tips: When installing new plugs, just a little 3-in-1 - or any light machine oil - on the threads will allow them to go in and come back out so much more easily than they might otherwise. Oh, and again, penetrating oil is your friend; and finally, be mindful of the "lateral twist" which often results in breaking the ceramic of the plug.) Anyway, we'll cross these bridges when you come to them.

Today's two questions:
1. What should I do about the fuel line mismatch? Should I try to bend the lines and see what happens? With or without heating? Should I get some extra line and just connect them where they sit?

I've had fuel line repairs with proper hose and clamps which served the purpose well. Also, on my '63, the line coming up from the pump to the in-line fuel filter is rubber, and that works just fine. If you are sure that the sending unit is indeed correct, I'd probably just use hose and clamps to make the connections and not worry with bending (no kinks are better than even one kink, and rubber bends so much better than metal). Best answer I can give, as I haven't (yet) faced your predicament with this one.

2. Reading the service manual, it says the oil should only be changed when the engine is warm, as the old oil will flow out better. Originally I planned to change the oil before starting the engine, but now I think I should wait. Recommendations?

Under normal conditions, I agree with the manual: current (read: recently used, not excessively aged) organic oil flows out better warm than cold. That's a fact of life. However, what you have in that crankcase is likely ages old and not capable of properly lubricating the engine at all. As a result, here's how I would handle this, assuming you are not going to do an engine overhaul to start:

Dump the oil as it stands and change the filter. (Again, these engines predate our modern filter designs; you may choose to convert to a modern spin-on filter or stick with the cartridge type. Larry can give you more guidance on this than I, as I am just learning my way around pre-1960's mechanicals - LOL) Your next oil change should be soon (1,000 miles? less?), and "by the book" (warm oil). The idea is that you likely have a lot of castor build up here and there, and you'll want to run that out in this first oil change. The filter should trap most of that, and other stuff should end up at the bottom of the pan. This will flow out more easily with the tide of warm oil. For now, though, the goal is just to get as much of the old, broken down, useless stuff out of there as possible without causing undue wear on the engine.

HTH