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Old 12-18-2025, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin View Post
Does your headlight switch assy not have a little spring loaded button on the backside to release the "pull shaft/knob" from the unit ?
Yes, it does but no matter how hard I press, it won't release. I've even tried to use something hard on the end of my finger to press it deeper, but it won't release.

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Old 12-18-2025, 09:36 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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If you can hit it in the back with some WD40 , and hit the stem with some fully extended , it should come around eventually.

Press the button in lightly - while pulling the knob from seated position -
You should be able to feel the point where the catch hits.
Push the release button pretty good - push knob back in just a little - then pull knob out.

I've had some get tricky - WD and finiggling always seems to work.
Also can rotate knob left to right and might find a sweet spot for release of the stem.

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Old 12-19-2025, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 79 Phoenix View Post
Yes, it does but no matter how hard I press, it won't release. I've even tried to use something hard on the end of my finger to press it deeper, but it won't release.
Put the headlights into the on position(knob pulled all the way towards driver) then push the button behind the dash and it should come right out.

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Old 12-19-2025, 07:33 PM
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Thanks, guys for the input. Much appreciated! Haven't had time yet to try any of these ideas but I will try them and will report back as soon as I can. It would be nice to not have to buy a new headlight switch. When I had the dash apart a couple months ago, I was able to remove the headlight knob. Hopefully, I will again.

As mentioned before, I did install a new trunk mat. It is an ACC "Fleece" type with an aqua pattern. It has fleece on the bottom and a vinyl on top. It was curling on top (towards rear of car) so I tacked it on with weatherstripping cement on that area.

First picture shows trunk as I found it minus a big bag full of trash and junk. It had several holes in it caused by a leaking rear window and/or trunk seal. I fixed the holes and the seals.

Rim for spare is a 14" Olds rally wheel that was laying on the front seat when I bought the car. It may at some point get replaced by a 15" Rally II and tire.
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Old 12-19-2025, 07:54 PM
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The trunk paint looks good. Nice job with that.

Too bad that bag of trash wasn't a bag of cash. Never happens to me either.

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Old 12-20-2025, 02:27 PM
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The trunk paint looks good. Nice job with that.

Too bad that bag of trash wasn't a bag of cash. Never happens to me either.
Yeah that would have been helpful! I have found about $1.75 in in old change from the 60's, 70's and 80's though! Enough to buy a cup of coffee .

I'm pretty satisfied with the trunk paint but it could have been better if I had first painted everything gray or black before doing the trunk paint & clear. That way, I wouldn't have needed as much trunk paint (It doesn't cover well-used 3 cans) As it is, it's more uneven than I'd like...But after all, it's a trunk.

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Old 01-08-2026, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCMDGTO View Post
Put the headlights into the on position(knob pulled all the way towards driver) then push the button behind the dash and it should come right out.
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions! I tried them all but , OCMDGTO, yours is the one that worked in my case. Knob pulled right out when I pulled it out and then pushed the button. Bezel is now installed as it should be.

Also, I put in the new pedal pads and also parking brake grommet and handle. In picture I have a wire tie holding handle till epoxy dries. I needed to drill out new handle because hole was too small. So, I epoxied it.

Also, finally got front seat belts bolted in with new vinyl anchor covers.

Next to attack doors. Hinges are acceptable. First the driver's side. I am going to clean the part that closes against the jamb, paint and install new weather stripping around door.
Then I will address the rust in both lower corners of the outside. Rear corner needs to be cut out and repaired. Front corner...not sure if it's rusted through...
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Old 01-12-2026, 06:36 PM
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Started working on the door. Got most of the paint off and started to explore the rust areas in the lower corners. Need to cut the rust out and figure out the best way to fix the holes. I'm sure these are typical rust areas for A-body cars. I'm wondering what makes them susceptible to rust in these corners and how to reduce re-occurrence. My original door was completely rotted away in the front lower corner, so I bought this door from a guy in upstate NY where it had sat in a barn for years. .It needs a lot of work but it's really not too bad.

I will be installing new lock cylinders and new (or good used if I can find) door handles after car is painted.

Also, I had installed late seventies F-body mirrors so I would have functioning mirrors. F-body housings are slightly wider than my originals but the mirrors seem to be the same size as my originals which were frozen. I am going to attempt to put the guts from the F-body mirrors into my original housings (which are nice). I need to finish getting the F-body mirrors apart--need to drill out one screw. We'll see.
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  #9  
Old 01-13-2026, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79 Phoenix View Post
...I'm wondering what makes them susceptible to rust in these corners and how to reduce re-occurrence...
Like other GM's, the door corners have triangular flat sections on the inner stamping that are parallel to the door skin and only a fraction of an inch apart: perfect for gathering and holding silt which retains water... and breed rust.

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Old 02-06-2026, 05:33 PM
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Haven't done anything in about a month. Still recovering from Carpal Tunnel surgery. But have gotten a good bit done on driver's door the last couple days. I found a little surprise under the lower front inner corner... I have cut out the rust,, cleaned and rust treated as best I can and am in the process of fixing this hole which was only plastered with a big blob of Bondo years ago.

I'm thinking after door is finished to maybe drill some additional drain holes in the bottom to help slow future rust.

Also, there is a small bit of weather stripping missing (about an inch) by the front of the window edge that I will repair. That may help reduce water and debris from accumulating in the lower corner of the door.

Finally, the F-Body mirrors DO fit nicely into the original housings. So that will definitely look better when put back together. The F-Body housings were a little too big.
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  #11  
Old 02-16-2026, 08:01 PM
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Rust holes are fixed inside and out. Used epoxy primer on the bare metal. Patched rust holes with fiberglass and contoured the repairs with body filler and then 2 coats of filler primer. Still more to go on this door but making progress.

Next will begin blocking the door and lower fender. But that will have to wait a couple weeks as we are headed to sunny FL for a little break.
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Old 06-09-2026, 10:41 AM
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nice

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Old 06-18-2026, 03:30 PM
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Finally finding time to resume working on the car. I've been working toward getting the car as good as I can make it and then turning it over to a body shop to finish prepping and paint.

Yesterday and today, I have finished the driver's side and also sanded down and primed the top and then re-sanded... I used a little filler on the driver side qtr panel seam with the roof. Joints on both sides are original lead filled. I was able to improve the joint on the driver's side.

Tomorrow I will begin stripping the hood down to bare metal. The paint is cracked in one area and there is surface rust underneath. So, I will know the whole story once I get the paint off.

Also, I have cleaned up the aluminum step plates which are decent for being 55 years old. I need to install so the new carpet doesn't get messed up.

Also got my driver's side remote mirror back together using the original 71 housing. Mirror itself is late 70's F body.
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Old 06-19-2026, 05:19 PM
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Took the car outside in the shade to sand off the hood paint and save some of the mess in my garage.

Several coats of paint, primer, sealer? It's had at least 1 repaint...maybe more on the hood. A lot of paint on a big hood!

Small patch of body filler on passenger side above hinge bolts. Also some surface rust on passenger side.

More exploration tomorrow!.
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Old 06-19-2026, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79 Phoenix View Post
Took the car outside in the shade to sand off the hood paint and save some of the mess in my garage.

Several coats of paint, primer, sealer? It's had at least 1 repaint...maybe more on the hood. A lot of paint on a big hood!

Small patch of body filler on passenger side above hinge bolts. Also some surface rust on passenger side.

More exploration tomorrow!.
Nice progress! I may take on my hood next. What did you use to strip it? DA? Looks like it's solid! That's a good surprise. And kink-free!

For the same reason of giant mess, in addition to not wanting to deal with the underside, I'm considering having it blasted or just leave the underside as it is. What's your plan for the underside?

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Old 06-20-2026, 09:06 AM
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I'm using a drill with a rubber sanding disk with 80#. I have an electric DA that I will use to help reduce the scratches before I start with primer.

On the underside, I sanded surface rust by hand, cleaned and used Rustoleum rust reformer. Then painted with Rustoleum satin black. This worked well on the Phoenix I just sold and still looked fine after 16 years.

I hope I will be able to get the rest f the paint off today... My hand is swelled a little and somewhat numb. I had carpal tunnel surgery back in January and hand is slow to recover...

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Old 06-20-2026, 11:29 AM
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Thanks. Be kind to that hand!

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