| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Quote:
Take a look here in my thread, there are pictures and also a small video how it works: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...8&postcount=14 In fact I constructed an adapter for the backside and 3D-printed it, and the two small switches are from Amazon for around 10EUR. A few small screws and a stopper from a bike brake cable - that was the whole magic ![]() I can send you the 3d-printfiles if you like to do it the same way, it works very good. |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Top for your air cleaner now up for bid on ebay. Surface rust but I don't see any dents. These are hard to find.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28707019322...3223&recoPos=4 |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
More progress today.
The clock: now correctly regulated (hasn't lost or gained a minute since I tweaked it earlier today) has been running for two or three days at this point. Mission successful! The speedometer: another brief run around the neighborhood demonstrates that it is not improved at all. After the run I took off the connection at the transmission, and tried to turn the cable from there, but it was so stiff that I could not do it at all by hand. The brakes: I now have brake fluid leaking from the rear passenger wheel without visible cause. I'll take the wheel off tomorrow and look, but I expect a blown wheel cylinder. The weatherstripping: after today's exercise I backed the car into the garage and removed the old weatherstrip from the rear passenger door. The passenger weatherstripping will be a project for the next week of evenings, I suspect. Today's two questions, therefore... 1) if it's not a kinked or dry cable, what else could be causing the bouncy/jittering speedometer? Did I not use enough grease, and I should just load it up instead of the thin coat I tried previously? I noticed that the "collar" on the cable is on the speedometer side instead of the transmission side, if that matters. 2) Before I order a new rear wheel cylinder and brake hose, is there anything else that could cause a brake fluid leak from the inside of the wheel? |
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
With the cable removed from the speedometer is the speedometer also difficult to turn? Use something that simulates the square cable end, maybe a small screwdriver. If the speedometer turns easily, then a new cable is needed. And possibly the cable sheath also.
__________________
Anybody else on this planet campaign a M/T hemi Pontiac for eleven seasons? ... or has built a record breaking DOHC hemi four cylinder Pontiac? ... or has driven a couple laps of Nuerburgring with Tri-Power Pontiac power?(back in 1967) ... or has a Pontiac born the same year as Jim Wangers? (1926}
|
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I think the "collar" is supposed to be on the speedometer end like yours is and therefore the cable "loads" into the sheath from under the dash. Try disconnecting both ends of the cable and see if it is easy to turn. It should be. If it turns easy the problem is in the speedometer. If not the cable is causing grief. I remember using powdered graphite, not "grease" on speedo cables. Grease tends to get sticky after a few decades. I don't know how to remove the grease.
__________________
My Pontiac is a '57 GMC with its original 347" Pontiac V8 and dual-range Hydra-Matic. |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
Today I disconnected both ends of the speedometer cable and twisted, and it spun fine. This may mean that there's something wrong with the speedometer itself (unfortunately).
I also did two other things: I began work on rewiring the trunk light (but I can't find a non-online source for the correct gauge of orange wire) so that'll have to wait for the next Amazon order. And I removed the weatherstripping from the rear passenger door and acid-prepped it to neutralize the rust - I think I'll give it another brushing and wire prep just to be safe. Today's question: 1) What to do about the speedometer? Tests and recommendations? |
| Reply |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|