| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Tailpipes look like they are pointing at an angle downward, not sure you will be able to adjust them much, if at all.
You can probably get them a little higher, and then use a generic turn-down. You can't put a tip on and make it stay 'angled'. I do all my exhausts on jack stands laying on my back, Pypes kits for years. I've tried all the cutters, and although the Lisle ones are 'better', but they flex if you tighten them down too hard. And same thing with once the blades start going, you will be 'cussin'. I've found the ratcheting ones are the best, and worth it if you do a number of exhaust work over time. I lightly clamp the pipes together with U clamps after marking a line across the joints. (in case it moves some during transport). Then take it up to a shop to get them welded. Any final fine-adjustments the shop can make as they weld. OE hangers are nice to use, there's considerable adjustment you can make with them (before welding mostly). Never 'load' the exhaust to get it where you want, over time it just rips the hangers off. The approach has worked well for me over the years. Personal tip: Always put an O2 bung on. You can plug it, but if you ever want to go efi, that part is done. Can be used for wide band tuning too. .
__________________
. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
| Reply |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|