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#1
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This is strange. Initially just the ps then all belts. What a gremlin. Been through this (like many) and went to serpentine years ago. Not that that is the solution, and it shouldn’t be the only one! Drag on the ps belt was a cause for me. The clutch on the fan contributed. A flex fan helped. Pulley alignment was a major contributor for me that dogged me a long time as I was trying to sort this out. Lots of experimenting with the belt off and the belt on for comparisons. Later, a serious upgrade of the engine caused belt squeal at the water pump pulley and it ended up being drag, again, arghh. Hard pull on the belt, bizarre. Not the ps but still a drag thing. Went electric fan and the water pump pulley belt squeal was solved for years now. Not saying these are solutions, just thoughts that may or may not help. Usually just a belt for those who are fortunate. Oh yeah, excessive tightening is not the long term fix and can be hard on pulley bearings – I learned that with the alternator pulley. Interesting comment on the hyrdoboost. I switched to hyrdoboost later as a part of an all-around brake redo and to address the loss of vacuum after the engine build. Manual would have worked but I preferred the hyrdoboost system. The psi thing never came up with discissions with the supplier of the hyrdoboost and all has been good since putting it in 2008.
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#2
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8" Dual diaphragm booster works down to 12" of vacuum, so you would have to have a series cam to make less than that.
Many times people don't have enough idle timing, which leaves them with low idle vacuum. Manifold vacuum on a can is the solution for those people. When I was still doing V belts, I did a set of RARE pulleys and all was good. For the most part. I needed more amps and there's a limitation with V belts of how many amp alt you can run. For me, 140a was about the max. Serp is the way to go, it solves many issues/limitations. But some don't want to switch to a 11-bolt cover. IMO, make the jump, it's a win-win-win solution. March stuff is affordable. But remember, you're adding weight to the front, which is ahead of the front tires. In most cases, you need more spring to deal with it. As for PS pump flow and psi, repop pumps are all over the place on the type 1 pumps. Type 2 pumps it's basically 3 diff ones, but you still need to know. Valving in repop boxes are all over the place too, and you basically have to trial & error it. Hydroboost systems were designed using type 2 pumps. Some kits kits come with a type 1 pump, and you have to use that pump. I know people say you can swap valves around in the type 1 pumps, but even the go-to references are outdated. If you upgrade to a 600 series box, those too are generally mated with a type 2 pump. It's best if you 'know', and not just wing it. BTDT... .
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