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Old 04-30-2026, 05:58 PM
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I'm not certain what your fuel setup is, but this is why I believe carb'd vehicles that see regular use and pump fuel need electric pumps in the tank. You can prime the bowls before starting because they will be empty. Or, you just understand that if you're using a mechanical pump, you're going to need to use the starter to get the bowls primed.

I agree one of my best friends a Mopar guy gave up om carbs and went EFI as the evap and how each different fill up the blend was just a hair different and AFR would be off.

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1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever!
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1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project
1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs
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  #2  
Old 04-30-2026, 06:13 PM
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Going through the same thing. When its hot out and my engine is about 190F, the AFR on the gauge goes into the 12s-11s during an interstate cruise. The damn fuel vapor makes it go rich while it's running. I blocked off the heat crossover with 321 stainless. That helped a lot but not completely.

I'm trying a 1/4" open spacer between my 750DP and RPM. If that ain't enough, I'm going 1/2" open phenolic spacer. I ran a 1/2" nitrous plate under a Q-jet on the same intake on my previous motor. A nitrous plate is basically an open spacer with the spraybars in the middle. That engine was 9:1 400, XE274 cam, mild ported 670s. 10" converter and 3.90s. It loved the open spacer. The idle vacuum was 10-12", but otherwise the open spacer worked. Especially when the solenoids opened, LOL.

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Last edited by chiphead; 04-30-2026 at 06:18 PM.
  #3  
Old 04-30-2026, 10:52 PM
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65 Lamnas 65 Lamnas is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
...carb'd vehicles that see regular use and pump fuel need electric pumps in the tank...
I agree 100%.

I run an "overkill" fuel system for my ugly old Qjet, on purpose and in part to help to eliminate hot start issues. Besides, the sh*t gas that's available just makes the symptoms worse.

Tim, I don't know if you're running a mechanical pump or not, but the heat transfer from the pump to the fuel doesn't help any. If you DO TRY a spacer, I'd go with the 4-hole 1/2" phenolic....1/4"seems too thin to me. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all25983

I run a resto-mod tank (www.rickstanks.com) in my '65 Lamnas. I chose an Aeromotive 340 pump in the tank with -6 supply and -8 return. I've got the regulator (https://www.robbmcperformance.com/pr...ulator_bp.html) set at 7psi, so there's A TON of fuel being recirculated at all times other than WOT blasts.

It also helps that my 462 runs cool....not a lot of heat underhood and I can hardly get my engine to run at t-stat temps....except on super hot days. If you're able to run a cooler stat, that "might" help too.

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Old 05-01-2026, 10:22 AM
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Tim Corcoran Tim Corcoran is offline
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Default Fuel Boiling

The car has D-Port Edelbrock heads and a mechanical fuel pump with no return line. The reason I think the fuel is boiling out of the carb is after a drive then parking the car in the garage, the garage smells like gasoline very strong. Plus after the car was cool I advanced the throttle and noticed the rear squirter was not discharging fuel which leads me to believe the rear bowl was empty. It's not the starting issue that I am trying to solve, it's the strong smell of gasoline that bothers me. If I pump it several times it does start OK. I thought about adding a 50cc pump on the front and I did notice it would require a spacer to fit.

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Last edited by Tim Corcoran; 05-01-2026 at 10:44 AM.
  #5  
Old 05-01-2026, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran View Post
The car has D-Port Edelbrock heads and a mechanical fuel pump with no return line. The reason I think the fuel is boiling out of the carb is after a drive then parking the car in the garage, the garage smells like gasoline very strong. Plus after the car was cool I advanced the throttle and noticed the rear squirter was not discharging fuel which leads me to believe the rear bowl was empty.


Check the bowl screws and accelerator pump diaphragm for leaks. The diaphragm will hold fuel for a long time. There's too much fuel in the bowl to "boil out" and even if it did it'd still remain in the accelerator pump.

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Old 05-01-2026, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran View Post
The car has D-Port Edelbrock heads and a mechanical fuel pump with no return line. The reason I think the fuel is boiling out of the carb is after a drive then parking the car in the garage, the garage smells like gasoline very strong. Plus after the car was cool I advanced the throttle and noticed the rear squirter was not discharging fuel which leads me to believe the rear bowl was empty. It's not the starting issue that I am trying to solve, it's the strong smell of gasoline that bothers me. If I pump it several times it does start OK. I thought about adding a 50cc pump on the front and I did notice it would require a spacer to fit.
I think it's the nature of the beast. This E10 stuff evaporates very easily. There is no fuel visible in the bowls 24 hours after I drive it in the summer. I park the car in an attached garage. If I leave the door to the laundry room open, the whole house smells like Cooter Brown's garage in about 10 minutes. The wife asks if the house is going to explode. The kids dance in a circle and scream "dads in the garage, dads in the garage and left the door open" like they're telling on me. The dog goes out for fresh air. Its BAD. My only suggestion is to try a vent fan. I'll leave the garage door open for awhile after driving it, it seems to really help. The smell in the garage goes away a few days after the last time the engine ran. So it seems to be from the float bowls rather than the fuel tank, unless I recently got gas, the smell lingers.

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White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP
Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25

Last edited by chiphead; 05-01-2026 at 12:50 PM.
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