[mgarblik]

Thanks for the pic. Yea, no fixing that poor cap. Having a cap fit, pins removed, and upsized, plus a line hone would never happen around here for $300.00 Maybe 15 years ago! That's a solid 6 hour job without automated equipment I don't know of any machine shops working for $50.00 an hour. We are about $100.00 an hour for very average work. $125-130 for a shop that knows what they are doing.

[ThreeNuts]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Thanks for the pic. Yea, no fixing that poor cap. Having a cap fit, pins removed, and upsized, plus a line hone would never happen around here for $300.00 Maybe 15 years ago! That's a solid 6 hour job without automated equipment I don't know of any machine shops working for $50.00 an hour. We are about $100.00 an hour for very average work. $125-130 for a shop that knows what they are doing.

I'm staring at a likely teardown & rebuild, at least all new bearings & seals - (odd that the rebuild shop used a 2-piece seal in 2010) - maybe the pistons & cylinders are good...they should be, with less than 20K on it, biannual oil changes, and no other issues...it runs (ran) great...

...So anything less than $4K is fine, I'm more concerned with finding a competent shop within 100-miles I can take it to. I have a pickup so delivery & pick-up are not the issue.

[NeighborsComplaint]

First off, what you did was just dumb. You never ever force precisely machined parts.

Were I in your shoes. I’d try the new cap with the old bearing on the motor. Clean the bearing and crank journal with brake clean and apply a light coat of machinist’s blue on the lower bearing half. Install the bearing half dry in the new cap and install it on the motor. Use light taps with a dead-blow hammer to seat the cap and torque the bolts to spec.

Spin the crank slowly with a toque wrench and note and binding by turning in 1/4 turn revolutions. Run through a couple revolutions. Your torque wrench and the resistance you feel will tell you if the crank is tight from misalignment.

Remove the main cap and look for any contact pattern that confirms misalignment (blueing rubbed off in an even band). If all is good, clean off the blue, libe the bearing and reassemble.

Also, take care installing the old bearing in the new cap. It may not press right in as it may have spread slightly when the cap broke but not badly enough that a couple light taps on the top of the cap with the mating surface on flat sheet steel wouldn’t seat it.

It’s not perfect but it could save you a rebuild and potentially run a long time.

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

...It’s not perfect but it could save you a rebuild and potentially run a long time.

My thoughts exactly. You really have nothing to lose here as if it starts acting up you will hear it in time.

[ThreeNuts]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

First off, what you did was just dumb. You never ever force precisely machined parts.

Were I in your shoes. I’d try the new cap with the old bearing on the motor. Clean the bearing and crank journal with brake clean and apply a light coat of machinist’s blue on the lower bearing half. ...

Oh don't I know it.

Knowing myself this is exactly the thing I wanted to try but lacked the proper steps to do it, so I will acquire machinist's blue and give it a go. I am highly skeptical but absolutely worth a try with nothing to lose.

My other concern is that this is the seal bearing, whether or not the seal groove will line up properly. Presumption(!) is that should I get a good clean install then chances are the groove is also aligned.

I did locate a machine shop in Birdsboro, PA that seems to have the right combination of competence, equipment, and time to do this job should I not be comfortable with the fit of this new bearing cap.

Thank you again, everyone, for your input, comments, time and expertise. It is deeply appreciated and very helpful (and supportive!).