#1  
Old 05-14-2026, 09:39 AM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammertime View Post
I like loud music and like your setup but I won’t cut up my car. I would consider under the seat or trunk sub but I think if I am not happy with the front dash and some quality 6x9’s I can add the subs later.
I get not cutting up a car, totally. When I originally added a sub to the 'bird is when I cut into the deck, which was in the early 80s. The car wasn't worth as much then and wasn't concerned with cutting it up. These days, I would certainly think twice.

Trimming a package tray to use the grills that come with 6x9s is a minor sacrifice as the package trays are readily available, and doing so makes a big difference. You can load component 6x9 subs from the top without any trimming to the metal structure, and use surface mount mids & tweeters. There are dual-coil 5x7 low/mid range speakers you could use in the front in stock location, and add surface mount tweeters in the corners.

The rear seat divider/metal package tray for many cars are available good-used, some are even repopped. So even if you do cut the metal, it can be repaired.

Under-seat and trunk subs are not a very good source of sound, they sound 'muddled' at best. I've tried trunk subs firing into the back seat, and it's worthless IMO. But it is good for finding just about every rattle you can imagine back there!

Amps now are so compact, you can pretty much mount them anywhere. I helped a friend mount an amp in a hatchback, used a board that I covered, with velcro on the bottom. Using a D-class amp, it doesn't require monster cables either. For many, 6-10g (quality) wire is fine.

Yeah, on the trunk light, the birds have a wire that runs along the deck lid hinge and thru the subframe of the decklid. It doesn't offer a lot of light, and to make it worse, it uses a gravity-type switch that is sketchy at best. The LED light strip is adhesive, as is the sensor. It's an inexpensive approach to a poor original design. The sensor has a dial that you can adjust the length of time is stays lit, and it lights the entire trunk cavity. Pop the lid, wave your hand, done.

My 'bird project has a 'green' theme, and all the interior and gauge lights are green.

The GTO has a 'blue' theme, same thing.

EDIT: Motion sensors are cheap, and come in a lot of types. I think I paid $11 for the one I have.

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Last edited by HWYSTR455; 05-14-2026 at 09:46 AM.
  #2  
Old 05-14-2026, 09:50 AM
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Just a quick glance at surface mount speakers:

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #3  
Old 05-14-2026, 09:59 AM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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No sooner I finished typing, I got an email from Restore-A-Musclecar on speaker grills! Scary! Heheh!

https://www.restoreamusclecar.com/pa...mounting-studs

The OE type grills tho block a lot of sound, but if you want complete stealth, this is a good option.


.

__________________
.

1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #4  
Old 05-14-2026, 07:26 PM
Hammertime Hammertime is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
I get not cutting up a car, totally. When I originally added a sub to the 'bird is when I cut into the deck, which was in the early 80s. The car wasn't worth as much then and wasn't concerned with cutting it up. These days, I would certainly think twice.

Trimming a package tray to use the grills that come with 6x9s is a minor sacrifice as the package trays are readily available, and doing so makes a big difference. You can load component 6x9 subs from the top without any trimming to the metal structure, and use surface mount mids & tweeters. There are dual-coil 5x7 low/mid range speakers you could use in the front in stock location, and add surface mount tweeters in the corners.

The rear seat divider/metal package tray for many cars are available good-used, some are even repopped. So even if you do cut the metal, it can be repaired.

Under-seat and trunk subs are not a very good source of sound, they sound 'muddled' at best. I've tried trunk subs firing into the back seat, and it's worthless IMO. But it is good for finding just about every rattle you can imagine back there!

Amps now are so compact, you can pretty much mount them anywhere. I helped a friend mount an amp in a hatchback, used a board that I covered, with velcro on the bottom. Using a D-class amp, it doesn't require monster cables either. For many, 6-10g (quality) wire is fine.

Yeah, on the trunk light, the birds have a wire that runs along the deck lid hinge and thru the subframe of the decklid. It doesn't offer a lot of light, and to make it worse, it uses a gravity-type switch that is sketchy at best. The LED light strip is adhesive, as is the sensor. It's an inexpensive approach to a poor original design. The sensor has a dial that you can adjust the length of time is stays lit, and it lights the entire trunk cavity. Pop the lid, wave your hand, done.

My 'bird project has a 'green' theme, and all the interior and gauge lights are green.

The GTO has a 'blue' theme, same thing.

EDIT: Motion sensors are cheap, and come in a lot of types. I think I paid $11 for the one I have.

.
Thank you for the time and suggestions. I will stop bye a car stereo shop tomorrow and see what is available. I’m learning from all the suggestions and need to put my eyes on stuff.

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