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Ditch the bushings for some that are interlocking, and you will never have this issue again.
I suggest the Global West ones, I've used them before, but there are others that may be less expensive, like PTFB. https://www.globalwest.net/product/f...9-global-west/ https://www.pro-touringf-body.com/pr...-body-bushings Can't tell by pic but those look like the standard height ones. Unless you want to go thru additional panel alignment, it's easier to use the standard height when you source the new ones. One comment on the solid ones, you have to at least run subframe connectors, if not the cowl braces. I still have a set of VSE ones, but several others make them now, again, PTFB has them: https://www.pro-touringf-body.com/product-page/g-braces That hole you see in the frame, and the one in the body, are the alignment holes, but suspect you already know that. A large drift punch, or two, can aid in the future alignment, after you get locking bushings. The locking bushings will inherently align it to some degree, the drift will take care of the rest. You can pretty much eyeball it too. Loosen the core support bushing bolts when you shift it, and the fender & inner wheel well to body/frame bolts. Open the doors like half way too to prevent gap contact. Leave the hood up. And of course, watch panel gaps as you close. Some kits don't include the core support bushings, it's best to use the matching ones. This is actually a common problem, and is exactly why now interlocking ones are available. .
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