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Old 05-19-2026, 06:52 PM
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SD421 SD421 is offline
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Just found my instructions from RPM.
Torque them to 60ft lbs
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1966 GTO

1966 421-10.1-1 comp-Race Tec 23cc Pistons
KRE Tri-Power
KRE 65cc Aluminum Heads
XE274 cam by Comp Cams
DUR 230 Int 236 Exh @.050 - 110 LSA
LIFT .491" Int .491" Exh
Tri-Y-Headers by Tribal Tubes w/ Goerlich Mufflers
1966 Muncie Wide Ratio 4-Speed
1968-72 Chevy 12 Bolt Rear End w/ 3.73 rear gears
  #2  
Old 05-20-2026, 01:33 PM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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It's easy to get in trouble with a click-style torque wrench. Method used to 'pull' can vary drastically from user to user. And I've had people argue with me regarding how it's properly done.

Once, watching a guy do a BBC build, he would pull kind of fast and gave up after the first click. When I mentioned it was not 'the best way', I got the "I've always done it that way and never had a problem' comment.

I asked if I could check it, and I came slowly up to the about where the click would be and it moved without clicking. I slowly added more pull and it clicked. But it was at least another 1/8 of a turn.

Then there's the argument of wrench calibration.

I've heard people swear beam type wrenches are more accurate, and I suspect some of it may be due to the fact that your are basically forced to come up on the spec slow. Going the last 5lbs or so even slower.

Totally agree on the lube too, have to use what is specified my the bolt manufacturer.

Have to closely inspect the hardware too, ensure threads are clean, and run the nut or bolt down by hand once or twice, feel the threads so to say. I've seen ARP bolts come out of a box of main studs and one nut had zero threads.

If nothing else, it removes all doubt if something later goes wrong, making sure of every detail along the way.


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