[BjarteTA]

Thanks for the advice.

I rotated the column slightly and now the key goes to the lock position and I am able to remove the key. I can start and stop with the key, but I need to put it in reverse to be able to remove the key, is this normal? I might have been fooled by the old cylinder who in the end allowed my to remove the key in whatever position. If I stop in neutral or 1st gear, I am not able to remove the key unless I put the gear into reverse. The cylinder seemed to slightly enter deeper into the cylinder tunnel, but still there is a small gap. There is a difference between the old and new cylinder, the new cylinder has some sort of spring load that the old missed. I attach a picture showing the gap. Other than this, everything work.

[Sport69]

Originally Posted by BjarteTA

Thanks for the advice.

I rotated the column slightly and now the key goes to the lock position and I am able to remove the key. I can start and stop with the key, but I need to put it in reverse to be able to remove the key, is this normal? I might have been fooled by the old cylinder who in the end allowed my to remove the key in whatever position. If I stop in neutral or 1st gear, I am not able to remove the key unless I put the gear into reverse. The cylinder seemed to slightly enter deeper into the cylinder tunnel, but still there is a small gap. There is a difference between the old and new cylinder, the new cylinder has some sort of spring load that the old missed. I attach a picture showing the gap. Other than this, everything work.

Yes, that was normal. If the rods and linkage were removed at some point you would have to manually rotate the column to remove the key. If you tried to leave it in that position after everything was removed your reverse lights would be on all the time unless you rigged up a junk-looking toggle setup. I hooked everything up correctly on my 69 so it functions as the factory made it, including the clutch safety switch, everything works perfectly.