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| The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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I have always used 80/20 Lead on seams for QP to roof and QP to filler panel on verts and other cars that have lead from the factory. Never had an issue with this method. Have had plenty of issues with the others. Only cars I use bondo there are vinyl top cars.
What say everyone. Has someone found a better product that will not crack at these stress joints?
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#2
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Like you I use Lead
My trick is an angle grinder and cup brush. Contain the lead dust and use PPE. The cup brush will remove all lead except the final film needed to "tin". Using the wire brush melts the lead vs a grinder making fine dust
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Cammer-6 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#3
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Lead has been the longest lasting. A little bit of plastic as the final layer saves time, and is thin enough to last quite a while.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to SRGN For This Useful Post: | ||
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#4
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Quote:
and rinse rinse rinse the lead
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Cammer-6 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#5
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I think most people are afraid of lead along with the extra time it takes and lead bars and materials are a lot more expensive than a can of polyester filler. I've been using lead on roof seams and the rest of the body for 57 years. Lead files easily by hand. I've never used power tools to take it down. Never had it crack. Nowadays I coat the lead with epoxy and block sand over it, seldom needs any putty.
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#6
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Yeah I found that out the hard way when I was young and learning. I'm no longer young, but still learning. I epoxy prime every substrate before I put plastic on these days, with the exception of daily driver junk.
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