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#21
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Works for F-Bodies?
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-- James Work '67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake." '75 Formula 400 - Daily Driver - Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400 Details here: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=588372 |
#22
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F-bodies have different stops, so the turning radius for the A-body boxes may cause the tires on an f-body to go beyond their design limits and otherwise hit the fender, wheel well, frame, etc.
Check the link posted previous in the thread, I believe it addresses f-body fit. The good thing about the f-body is the parts store boxes work pretty well. They are about $150, but you get a rebuilt box. The A-body guys can't use the part store boxes, as they merged the f-body boxes and A-body boxes into one part #. I tried a parts store box in an A-body and I couldn't make U-turns.
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
#23
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The boxes used in Jeep ZJ series work fine with the addition of the press in Lee Mfg inserts so you can screw in your original 60's - late 70's pressure line & return line fitting. Also will need the P/S pitman arm used on your style of Pontiac. Pitman arm swap is not that difficult. The conversion rag joint used to mate the later style steering box to early stlg column or intermediate shafts was actually used by GM for a while in '77. Nearly two decades ago I used to keep these nice original "conversion" rag joints so we could mate up the late '70's WS6 T/A boxes to earlier 2nd Gens. GM not only used the conversion rag joint on cars, but I used to pull a bunch of them out of pickups as I was yanking their tilt column cores.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 'ol Pinion head For This Useful Post: | ||
#24
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No no no! Part of the beauty of the Jeep box is it already has all the good internals. The Lee mods only pertain to modification of an original old box.
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#25
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whew!!...had me worried for a second
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#26
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Nick if you have anything around '77 GM wise bigger than a Vega or Monza, ck out the p/s rag joint. They weren't used all of the '77 model year, but for quite a while.
For those that are in the Pick-N-Pulls all the time & too cheap to spend $15 with Lee Mfg on the inserts, the metric P.S pressure line on nearly anything with 80's wise with a 307 Olds in it can be used on an earlier A-body with a Pontiac V8.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#27
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Did the swap on my 65 Goat and our 68 Bonneville, works great!!
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It's all fun and games...til somebody loses an eye. |
#28
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ok, so im finally getting started with my swap. got a 96 GC box a few weeks ago, got the fittings from Lee's in last week. HOW IN THE HELL DO YOU PULL THE PITMAN ARM FROM THE GEAR BOX? i tried everything. even went to autozone and they used some 3 arm claw type press remover. still no luck. more importantly, how do i get pitman arm from my car attached to the new box? can the pitman arm be reattached in the car?
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#29
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ok, nevermind the last post. i found out that the pitman arm puller i had was for a compact car. looks like a regular sized one will get it off youtube says i can just torque down the nut and washer to get it back on.we'll see how it goes
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#30
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Good luck, I ended up cutting mine off with a zip disc. Lucily it was the one off of the GC and not the TA. I was using the right puller and even tried heat the arm but the puller ended up bending. got tired of struggling and when I broke out the zip disk it was off in 5 min.
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73 TA 468 5sp SS 700, 12 bolt moser 373, 4 wheel disk brakes. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...7567172&type=3 |
The Following User Says Thank You to niceta For This Useful Post: | ||
#31
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Zip cuts fix anything....lol
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72 G.T.O. 455HO Auto 69 Firebird 400 Conv. Auto. IAII 540 and damn vroomy.... |
#32
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Niceta: I use a cheater bar to tighten that thing properly, it takes a lot of effort to snug it up and it is an important steering component.
When removing, you've got to whack that arm on the side with a small sledge pretty good before pulling it, and make sure the puller is perfectly centered. I can't believe that puller doesn't break pulling off an arm that has been on there for 40 years, it sure takes a lot of effort. I put an IROC box on my 70 bird, with the Lee inserts and new rag joint. I don't like using the inserts though, it doesn't feel right tightening the old PS lines into the metric box, I think I will switch to new lines at some point. Just feels like it is going to strip. Anyway, I think the rag joint/inserts is highway robbery (something like $100) compared to the whole rebuilt box which was about $150. I like the end results but it is pretty stiff now, I might have been better off getting the regular F-body from the 82-? due to it having less effort to turn. My factory box was already 2.5 turns lock to lock but boy was it worn out, like playing pin ball going down the road trying to stay in between the lines, and station wagon effort on top of that. |
#33
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I had to cut the jeep pitman arm off too except I used a hack saw because i didn't have a parting wheel handy! I beat the hell out of the jeep arm, heated it up, tried using a large puller and ended up ruining the puller by cross threading it, it WAS NOT coming off. So I cut it off. I should have definitely mentioned that. Thanks for bringing it up.
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#34
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yeah nick, woulda been nice to throw that lil tidbit out there. i actually just got it off. ended up at harbor freight after work today. they had a 9.99 zip wheel and 10 discs for 6.99. so i got those, a 29.99 impact gun with 450 ft lbs tq and socket set for 19.99. needed all this stuff anyway AND bought their 12.99 pitman puller. almost same issue as above with threads only mine completely rubbed threads flat. thats the third or 4rth time ive had flat thread issues with HB's parts. lesson learned. ended up pulling out the wheel and was off in a few minutes. WHEW. this stuff shouldnt be so complicated.
next question. anyone know what size the nut is on the pitman arm in a 68 lemans? the socket set only went up to 1 1/4. the jeep nut i just locked down my 14" crescent wrench on it and beat it with the 5lb hammer but it was out of the car. i plan on detaching the lemans arm from box while in the car and just removing the box and leaving the arm attached on the other end. i'd rather not try to remove and replace the ball joint on the idler arm(if thats whats attached to the pitman. is this a good idea? any other suggestions anyone? |
#35
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got the pitman arm off the old box today while in the car.i found out it was easier to torque a little with the puller, then back off and rotate the puller about 20 to 30 degrees to the side so as to try and keep it straigh as it comes off. wish i figured that out 3 days ago. i hope to get installed saturday
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#36
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So you guys are using the pitman arm from the car not he jeep?
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#37
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yes using the arm from the TA not the jeep.If I remember corectly the Jeep Pitman arm had a different drop/offest than the TA's.
__________________
73 TA 468 5sp SS 700, 12 bolt moser 373, 4 wheel disk brakes. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...7567172&type=3 |
The Following User Says Thank You to niceta For This Useful Post: | ||
#38
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Pitman arms are all chassis-specific, only the steering box itself is used for the swap.
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The Following User Says Thank You to b-man For This Useful Post: | ||
#39
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Ok. I've read all of this thread and I'm a little confused. At the moment I have the original steering box in the car. What do I need to install the jeep box? I see people reference metric and standard fittings, What is this? Also if i was to install this box would my original power steering pump still work?
Sorry if it seems like I'm hijacking the thread.
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1970 Lemans 350/ TH350 ProTouring Madness |
#40
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Quote:
Your original pump (standard fitting for pressure side) will work, but may need different valving or pressure mods to work properly. |
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