[alconk]

First off thank you to everyone who has helped me out so far. Now for something new. I removed the computer from my 81 T/A including harness but now when I slow down a buzzer goes off and the choke light comes on. When I give it gas it goes away. It's starting to drive me NUTS! I beleive it's the same buzzer for the ignition but not for sure. What can I do about this??

[alconk]

First off thank you to everyone who has helped me out so far. Now for something new. I removed the computer from my 81 T/A including harness but now when I slow down a buzzer goes off and the choke light comes on. When I give it gas it goes away. It's starting to drive me NUTS! I beleive it's the same buzzer for the ignition but not for sure. What can I do about this??

[GA Dave]

The "choke light"? I am trying to figure out what light you are referring to. I have a 79 TA and I don't think it has a light that references the choke.

This buzzer should only go of with the door open and the keys in the ignition. It may activate by leaving the headlights on also. I am not sure about that one.

A lot of TA's have wiring hanging down all over the place. Is it possible that the pedal or your foot may hit the buzzer or the wiring to the buzzer. If this scenario is possible, the buzzer itself may have a short and need replacing.

hope this gives you a suggestion that you may not have considered.

I am still interested in exactly what light you are referring to.

[alconk]

Luckly your 79 does not have this option since it sin't computerized. The choke light is in with the volt gauge and only in the 81 year. It started right after I removed the computer harness and turned on the air conditioner. Who knows ???

[Young One79TA]

Weren't the carbs on those years controlled by the computer? That may have something to do with it.

[TURBO80T/A ROB]

it's on 80 & 81 as my 80 turbo has it my light is on all the time but no buzzer

[jdcoic]

The idiot light for your alternator in the voltmeter guage doubles as the choke telltale (that's why it says choke on it). The switched 12V is fed to a relay (called the choke relay, should be on the driver's side of the steering column, right behind that removable panel with the small horizontal vent in it) that goes to the factory electric choke, and it also sends the exciter voltage to the alternator. That exciter circuit needs 10 Ohms/10 Watts of resistance for your alternator to operate correctly. For cars with an idiot light, the lightbulb itself provides the resistance. For cars without an idiot light, there will be a resistor, or piece of resistance wire in this circuit.

The idiot light works on "potential". With the key in the on position (engine not running/alternator not charging) the alternator has less potential than the 12V being fed to it thru the idiot light and acts simply as a ground, so, juice is flowing, and the lightbulb lights up. With the engine running/alternator putting out 14.4V (optimal) which is now greater than the 12V going to the light bulb, juice stops flowing, and the lightbulb goes out.

This light will also remain lit while the factory electric choke is engaged. I can only find reference to this choke relay on 80-81 second gens. I do not have a factory electric choke (no choke at all in fact), so... My car is an '80 TA, formerly a 4.9L turbo. Now it's a '74 6.6L (400) non computer car with an Edelbrock 750. It took some time staring at the wiring diagram, and some extensive wire tracing, but my alternator warning light now functions properly once again.

As to the choke/alternator warning light coming on, I can only think of two things...Either as you slow down, your alternator isn't producing greater than the 12V necessary to keep the light off, or the choke is askew and due to the linkage or something moving it is making contact/completing the circuit and making the choke light come on.

I would start the car, let it idle, with the choke engaged and without the choke and see what lights are on and when. You can pull the wire for the choke, try and narrow it down to the choke or alternator half of this circuit.

I have zero clue about the buzzer, unless somehow it was/or now is tied into your alternator warning light. I yanked my buzzer long time ago...

[Dens71TA]

The buzzing is most likely the Choke Heater relay under the dash. When it doesn't get enough voltage it starts buzzing. It sounds like the alternator is not putting out enough voltage at idle. This is also a very common problem on early 3rd-gen cars ...

[ta6point6]

good to know

[alconk]

Mann, AWSOM!! you guys hit it exactly! I found the choke relay that was buzzing (green in color) and unplugged it but now the choke don't work. I was told that my alternater meeds rebuilt so if this happens and I plug it back in will stop buzzing??? It's been driving me nuts and that's why I pulled it. I'm not running the computer anymore infact I even removed the harness and I thought that had something to do with it buzzing.

[jdcoic]

Since you removed the choke relay, like I did, you interupted the indicator lamp/exciter voltage circuit for the alternator. If you want to get these working again, which I suggest, then you can jumper the two terminals (like I did) that correspond to the switched 12V wire (pink w/black stripe) going in to the connector, and the wire that goes to the indicator lamp (green w/black stipe). The other wires should be black (ground for the relay to function), and blue (electric choke). You should consult a wiring diagram and/or do a quick trace of the wires for yourself...I'm going from memory as I'm not currently at home and can't get to my own simplified notes on this relay nor my car...

To get your choke working again, just tap into an ignition switched source (should be a couple on your fuse panel) and run it to the wire that goes to your electric choke. Just crimp a couple male spade connectors to a length of 18 AWG or thicker wire and "stab" one end into an empty ignition spot on your fuse panel and the other end into the now empty connector/terminal for the wire that goes to the electric choke. Now however, your "choke telltale" light on the voltmeter will not light up when your choke is on, no big sacrifice as far as I'm concerned.

After you get your alternator problems cured, I'd just remove the jumpers and put the relay back in and see what happens.

- Josh

[alconk]

Josh, is there a way I can talk with you on the phone tomorrow? I have so much to go over that right now I don't feel like typing what I need to say. You defienately know what you're talking about but I'm still a little confused.
Thanks,
AL

[jdcoic]

I sent you a PM with my phone #...

or, email me at [email protected] and I'll pass you my phone #

- Josh