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#1
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Well......I accidentally dropped my Tri-Power manifold on the driveway today and it cracked. After much yelling and many curse words, based on the pics, do you guys think it can be fixed or do I need to start looking for a new manifold? Also, if it can be fixed, how apparent will the fix be?
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"What ain't no country I ever heard of. They speak English in What?" - Jules Winnfield ------------------------------ 2015 Jaguar F-Type 340hp Convertible, Polaris White/Ebony Interior 1964 Pontiac GTO, Tri-Power, 4 Speed, Grenadier Red/Black Interior 1965 Chrysler 300 Convertible, 383/727TF, Factory Air, Spanish Red/Red Interior/White Top |
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#2
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I really think some JB weld could fix that problem right up.
That stuff is great, I use it on everything and anything, except hair gel. That wouldn't be a smart way to use it .That should repair it right up, allow it to sit for 24 hours after applying, sand and it'll be gone in no time. That crack is not substantial enough to have any major problems. From what I can tell, it's only cracked on the bolt hole on the manifold, and NOT the water crossover. If it had cracked anywhere on the main part of the water crossover itself, I think I might be a little concerned. Also heliarc might be a solution, but I am not all that familiar with it. I had a cracked TH400 case I needed repaired with similar damage from being dropped at one point. The heliarc repaired the crack and it's hard as nails. Hope I helped, I know the frustration. Try installing a brand new manifold, pulling a valve cover off, and having one of your valve cover bolts slip off...roll down the oil drainback passage, down yout lifter valley, and finally resting on the windage tray. Now that is not fun. Anyways, no fear. I've made lots of dumb mistakes on my Pontiac and always find some way to get myself back on track. Take care, Bryan |
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#3
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It seems that the crack extends into the water passage. With thermal cycling JB Weld is unlikely to be a durable repair, and you may develop a water leak. I would remove all paint and rust . Grind the crack on both sides, then TIG weld inside and outside the passage then grind down the welds and resurface the machined surface and repaint.
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#4
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Quote:
If you need a place, send me a PM and I can offer you a place in the SF Valley that knows how to fix cast iron like this. Don't lose any sleep. Once it's welded up, you can grind it and paint it and nobody will know, except you and I. Also, this is cast iron, not cast aluminum, so it is a bit different. If it were a 4 BBL intake I would suggest chopping of the x-over, but since it's a 3x2, get it fixed correctly, once, and be done with it. Do not use and "quick fixes" as they will come back and bite you...like at POCI in 110 degrees in San Berdo with everyone watching. -Karch
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How many of you have driven over 340?
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#5
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Quote:
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#6
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rexus31: take a clue: it may be a good thing to cut the water cross-over, even on a Tri-Power manifold.
I tink you just got the reason/excuse to go-and-modify it. Or: seriously consider SILOCONE doped into the cracks, smalll bolb on the interior & sculpted-to-the-surface on the exterior. Paint to conceal repair. I would think through the choice: JB-Weld vs Silicone. Pass-side & Driver side: Shouldered bolt with Wet-assy of Silicone on interior of Bolt hole& bolt-uppershank during bolt insertion. To prevent a leak from propagating outward. Driver-side needs carefull exam. |
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#7
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it depends what you are doing with the car but you could remove the water crossover and get one from a different intake
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#8
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From what I understand, it can be fixed, but needs to be done by someone who knows how.
The method involves heating the entire part very hot B4 welding up the crack. george |
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#9
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Quote:
George is correct, as I have seen this done a few times. It takes patience, experience, skill, and patience. Not to mention a love of heat. You need to get that piece very hot, very evenly, weld it up, then cool it slowly and evenly. PM sent...by the way, you can ask for Dave as well (I gave him a heads up).
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How many of you have driven over 340?
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#10
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Sorry. PY members are instructed to disregard anything I have said aboout repairing cast iron.
George |
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#11
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Bryan, you're right. Whether or not JB would be the way to fix it, JB will hold up in such an enviroment, the "slow cook," not the fast set.
I plugged the weephole in a water pump with JB. Blew it off with some brake cleaner, and smeared some JB over dirt, grease, and rust. It held up for 12 years before it started to leak again, and it might have held up longer had I done any type of surface prep. Also, the outer peice of my quadrajet's accelerator pump lever retaining area broke off. Used JB to put it back on. That was 22 years ago, and it's still holding strong. The only problem I see with the jb repair is the high torque area of the bolt, but as bad ass as the stuff is, it might hold up. |
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#12
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JB weld won't handle that :P
geeze have it welded properly
__________________
Clay Marsh 1967 GTO convertible Twin Turbo 5spd project http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...d.php?t=618281 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9KworCMRE |
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#13
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it probably wont work to weld, becouse as soon as you tork down that bolts on the intake its going to crack again. find another crossover, or intake. it will save you more in the long run. if you have a tri power on your pontiac, at least i would think you take great pride in your pontiac, and would avoid THE QUICK FIX... good luck
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#14
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I've got a lead on another intake so I'll probably buy it, get mine professionally repaired and either sell it as a repaired piece or save it as a spare.
__________________
"What ain't no country I ever heard of. They speak English in What?" - Jules Winnfield ------------------------------ 2015 Jaguar F-Type 340hp Convertible, Polaris White/Ebony Interior 1964 Pontiac GTO, Tri-Power, 4 Speed, Grenadier Red/Black Interior 1965 Chrysler 300 Convertible, 383/727TF, Factory Air, Spanish Red/Red Interior/White Top |
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#15
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great choice.......................
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#16
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If the crack does'nt go into the water crossover, I would just stop-drill the crack and use as is. You can't TIG cast iron. Check out muggyweld.com for repairing cast iron. They say there rod has 300% more elongation than nickel rod to prevent recracking
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#17
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Now the type of the crack, i would drill at the very end of the crack, so that it does not crack farther. then put in the oven, really high temp, let it sit about 6 hours, then press the " pin " that is slightly bigger than the diameter of the hole that you drilled, then, tig weld inside the nitrogen chamber or argon chamber with high nickel filler. then put the heads into the oven again, and this time, take 12 hours and decrease the heat 300-400 degrees every 2 hour and it will be fine .
After 12 hours, you let it sit outside another 6 hours, and resurface it. |
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#18
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really its no big deal,,, i would grind out and braze that sucker,,, 5min to fix it,,,,,, i did these before and NEVER had any issues,,this is nothing,,,,,, i brazed saltwater exhaust manifolds together,,,,, just using some coat hanger wire..
but im sure thats too simple of a fix for most lol |
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#19
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Oh yes, I have done that number of times, and those work well, however I discovered that today's coat hanger is not same as they used to, I think they are start using chap scrap metal, they don't stick well.
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#20
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i grew up next to this old wooden boat yard, had this old man teach me how to weld and braze. he used to tell stories about welding 2 cigarette foils together on a bet... he was some old submarine/battleship welder from WW2 with a pony tail and always smoked a big cigar. he would always have a set of gloves, soap stone, helmet and a few coat hangers in the back of his truck. lol
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