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#1
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I purchased an Optima Red Top about a month ago, I figured it would be money well spent since they are a "sealed battery" and I had completely redone my car from the frame up and didn't want to take a chance on anything corroding my engine bay. Well, two weeks later I go to start my car and it's "dead as a door nail." I go and take a look at the battery and there is a water looking liquid running out of it and down onto my battery tray and frame, it's freaking battery acid, and it's already damaged my battery tray and radiator support. So I remove it and take it back to AutoZone where I purchased it they gave me another one so I bring it back and everything works fine for about a week, well tonight I go to start my car up and the same thing "dead"!!! I take it back to Autozone and they tested it and it came back "Bad Battery". Needless to say, I'm DONE with Optima Batteries!!!!! Don't waste your money on these pieces of crap!!!!
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1979 Trans Am SE Black & Gold, T-tops, 400/4spd!!! I don't know whether I need a frontal lobotomy or a bottle in front of me?! ![]() "A Camaro looks like it could kick your ass. A Trans Am looks like it's coming over to do it!" |
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#2
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I have a 4 year old Optima yellow in my car. I don't even take it out for the winter, although I do disconnect the negative terminal. It fires up the car every spring like it was brand new. Maybe the problem is Autozone. Maybe the batteries they have on the shelf are ancient. Just a thought.
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John ![]() "There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots!" |
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#3
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I have run a red top in my car for about 4 years and I never unhook it... It works perfect..
It is an Interstate Optima battery.....
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1979 Pontiac Trans Am - 403 auto 1970 Pontiac GTO (sold)
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#4
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I had a red top in my TA for a few years, but it died this spring. I need to find a dealer that will honor the warranty. (it was purchased in Dallas TX)
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#5
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You need to look for other issues. That's not normal.
I've owned 3 and they are all still in service. 1 for 7 yrs in a Honda accord. The factory unit died in less than a yr. The Optima has outlasted 3 alternators and gone 130,000 miles 1 for 6 yrs in my Bird. With it sitting long periods it has been run down more times than I can count. But always bounces back with a trickle charge. Even have electric fans, battery in the trunk. Starts the car with very little effort. 1 in an '86 GMC 3/4ton work truck for 8 yrs. Got the truck with a dead battery, and bad clutch. Replaced them both in the driveway and drove the heck outta it. It has outlasted 1 clutch and 2 starters. I gave this to my brother 2 yrs ago. He let the truck sit for a yr, replaced the clutch and got it running again. No problem. |
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#6
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Well in my case, it just won't hold a charge. I can slow charge it, or charge it normally, but if I start the car (with the charger on boost) and drive it for an hour, shut it off, it will not restart. I've done this several times, just to make sure.
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#7
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Orig. poster: Bad voltage regulator? Bad diodes in the alt? You've got something wrong, and I don't thinks it's the battery.
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John IG: @crawdaddycustoms YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK9...Nc_lk1Q/videos |
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#8
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The dealer could have been overcharging the batteries in their stock, causing the cells to leak. They are really great batteries IMO. Even the standard red top is really a deep cycle compared to normal batteries. It can go an easy 6 months between charges or car use.
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#9
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I used to use them and they used to be quality, but 1 red top and the last two yellows have been garbage.
I'll stick with Walmart everstart maxx. Awesome CHEAP battery. |
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#10
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Do you have a volt gauge in your car? If so what's your charging voltage at while your idleling or driving? If it's above 15 volts your overcharging the battery which will make the battery boil thus spewing acid out and killing your cells.
Just a thought
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http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=21970dbc.pbw http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=10fd31d1.pbw http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=f1a25a49.pbw There are no laws against being in love with a Goat.....Right??
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#11
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optima require special charging procedure.
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#12
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But the alternator in a car doesn't know what kind of battery is in it, so the Optima better accept a charge from a standard automotive charging system.
George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#13
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Quote:
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Home of WFO Hyperformance Shaker induction. |
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#14
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I bought red top last Summer, and put it on a battery tender through the winter. Late Spring, it had a dead cell. Swapped it on warranty.
I checked the optima specs, they said float charger should be 1 amp max for indefinite period of time. My battery tender is 1.5 amp, but supposed to turn on/off when needed. Not sure if that's okay (thought on/off feature would not be an overcharge). Next Winter, I'll prob skip the battery tender, they are supposed to be able to sit 6 months. Battery charge specs from Optima is 10 amps max 6-12 hours. The cranking from battery is incredible though. Anyone know if 1.5 amp from an on/off tender is out of spec for this or should that have been okay? By the way, muzzfactor, Optima has this listed in specs: Alternator: 13.3 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit. Maybe check your charging system? oozing 2 in a row sounds fishy. |
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#15
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Quote:
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#16
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I went through 2 red tops, would never use them again. Mine developed internal shorts, would discharge in days after being fully charged, and disconnected neg. terminal. Both came from Pep Boys, the 2nd one being a warranty replacement.
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"You can observe a lot just by watching" Yogi Berra |
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#17
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Have had 2 red tops. Both are now dead. they both gave up holding a charge. Thankfully the vehicle I had 1 in was fitted with double batteries so could swap the terminals so I could start it and get home.
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Andrew Peters, Brit with good car taste |
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#18
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I have had two red tops both were great! I did find while searching the web optimas plant phone numbers. Their red top battry cost alot more than I paid from Pep boys. The engr. said the auto supply stores buy the batteries that are inferior to the ones that they sell. Kind of a lower grade. I don't know what to think but if you check the prices you'll find about $75-100 dollars difference.
I can't prove any of this but reporting what the manufacturer told me. Maybe I can or some else search this out and report to all of us if this is in fact correct. Example Discount tire rep told me a certain tire I needed was sold by their store at a price 15-20% more than the same tire from Walmart. He said Walmart tire is a lower grade of the same model with Walmart specs. I e-mail the tire manufacture and they replied the tires are the exact same model, same specs. everything. I took it to Discount tire and they got red faced and admitted they were wrong. I wonder if this is the same but different. Manufacturer saying something wrong against retailer/vendor. My 2 cents. |
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#19
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Quote:
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"You can observe a lot just by watching" Yogi Berra |
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#20
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I had trouble starting my 1990 454SS and switched to the Yellow top 750 CCA. Once winter hit, I didn't have enough CCA to start the truck and had to boost the voltage by jumping it with my POS beater 1993 Buick Regal. What a pain!! Cables are tight and clean and the starters fine. WTF???
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1969 TA RAIII M40 Auto Cameo White/ Std Blue Int 1970 TA RAIII M21 4-spd Lucy Blue/Std Black Int 1971 TA 455 HO M22 4-Spd Lucy Blue/Deluxe White Int Last edited by RAJ7395; 07-18-2007 at 08:43 PM. |
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