[6d7gto]

Under the deck filler panel on a '67 hard top is a support frame. I'm talking about the area between trunk and package tray. Sandwiched between top panel and subframe was a thin sheet of sound deadener type padding. I was thinking of using a spray type deadener instead of the pad and after installing the top panel I was then going to spray some expanding foam insulation since the top panel really just kind of floats above the support structure. Original panels were much thicker and less prone to bend whereas I'm using a cheap repro panel. Anyone try this or should I do it the same as factory did? One more question for the pros. What should be done about the lead seams between the side panels? It has to be totally waterproof and bondo absorbs moisture or so I've been told. Been thinking of using MuggyWeld which melts at about 400 degrees. It's basically a solder that bonds well to metal. Heard some guys use a long thin piece of sheet metal and weld up the seam but I'm afraid I will warp the heck out of the brand new panel. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Robert
[email protected]

[Cammer-6]

Factory used anti flutter in areas such as this.

if youre going to use plastic pick something like this
http://bondo.com/products/fiberglass...iller-274.html

[cfd2bc]

I did exactly what you are talking about doing. I used an expanding foam to fill the void. I used it because the repop piece was very thin and I wanted to make it stronger to block out without oil canning. Also, it seemed like it would dent very easily. As for the seams, I drilled the new panel along the lip and rosette welded it like the factory spot welds. I used dura-glass short strand fiberglass where the panel meets the sail area/ window lip. On the seams, I used body seam sealer. It seams very strong all around. I know it's not factory but it came out looking great.

[6d7gto]

Thanks for the input guys. cfd2bc, did you drill holes in the repro panel then rosette weld the new panel from the inside onto the original sheet metal or did you drill holes in the original metal and weld from the outside onto the repro panel? I'm not sure which way to go since the substructure is in the way at some places (not sure I can get my mig gun in there). Maybe a combination of the 2 techniques? Hope this is clear...hard to explain what I mean to say.

[cfd2bc]

6d7gto, I drilled the new panel and welded from the inside. It is pretty tight, but I was able to weld it all the way.

Jeff

[paint guy]

I would be careful using expanding foam as I have heard that at least some types are prone to absorbing moisture, and may cause future rust/corrosion issues.

[Cammer-6]

Originally Posted by paint guy

I would be careful using expanding foam as I have heard that at least some types are prone to absorbing moisture, and may cause future rust/corrosion issues.

you beat me to it.
use the proper stuff
antiflutter 3M