[6d7gto]

The car will be completely blasted to bare metal this spring then primed and left in primer for a year or more. Heard horror stories about certain primers coming off in sheets. Would like to go with red oxide color if possible.

[GOAT WHORE]

PPG dp epoxy or SPI epoxy is what I would go with.

[Mark O]

PPG DP 50

[carcrazy]

Another vote for PPG DP. However you will be outside the recoat and have to put another coat in the future. I would probably use DP and then follow up with K-36 or 38 (high build).

[400 4spd.]

DPLF 74 is close to a red oxide color.

[Birdguy]

Originally Posted by carcrazy

Another vote for PPG DP. However you will be outside the recoat and have to put another coat in the future. I would probably use DP and then follow up with K-36 or 38 (high build).

X2 on that. Doing it that way enabled me to work on other things without about having to sand and re-spray the DP and worry about adhesion.

[lsp]

EPOXY PRIMER... WOULD USE BLACK JUST CAUSE WHEN YOU DO BODY WORK ON IT YOU WILL SEE ALL THE DENTS ...

[68 Firebird Brian]

Are people using the DPLV 2.1 VOC epoxy primers? Is VOC standard working out?

[paint guy]

Unless it is a requirement in your area, I wouldn't worry about a low VOC product. All you are doing is spending extra money to buy a primer thinned with exempt solvents which are typically more expensive. low VOC doesn't necessarily mean higher solids, just different solvents.

[PaulatFast]

SPI

[6d7gto]

Thanks folks!

[sjdiesel]

Bringing this back up. Did you get your car blasted and primed?


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[gtome]

Id use SPI. It has a nice long working window and is easily sanded if you need too. Nice price too. Comes in black, red, and white.

[GOAT WHORE]

Originally Posted by gtome

Id use SPI. It has a nice long working window and is easily sanded if you need too. Nice price too. Comes in black, red, and white.

And grey.

[gtome]

I didnt know they had grey!

Also as a side note, if you reduce it (black), it drys to a nice sheen like suspention parts should be.

[6d7gto]

Originally Posted by sjdiesel

Bringing this back up. Did you get your car blasted and primed?


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I'm taking the rest of the week off to blast the car. Thanks for asking. I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm using a dustless blaster DB150. Here's a link: http://dustlessblasting.com/

[6d7gto]

I'm confused now. I talked to a local body shop owner and he said not to use Epoxy primer but if I do, use an acid based etching primer first. He also said the epoxy primer is porous and will rust underneath. Is he correct or way off base?

Sounds like SPI is the best way to go at this point. I will give them a call. Plan to have it primed next week. Was going to do it this weekend but slight chance of rain. Figures.

[propuckstopper]

Originally Posted by 6d7gto

I'm confused now. I talked to a local body shop owner and he said not to use Epoxy primer but if I do, use an acid based etching primer first. He also said the epoxy primer is porous and will rust underneath. Is he correct or way off base?

Sounds like SPI is the best way to go at this point. I will give them a call. Plan to have it primed next week. Was going to do it this weekend but slight chance of rain. Figures.

Call Barry directly at SPI. Best tech support ever. He always answers the phone, and will give you all the correct information you need to succeed.

[Jack Ferris]

SPI.

[webfoot]

Originally Posted by 6d7gto

I'm confused now. I talked to a local body shop owner and he said not to use Epoxy primer but if I do, use an acid based etching primer first. He also said the epoxy primer is porous and will rust underneath. Is he correct or way off base?

Pretty much the exact opposite of reality. Since you are blasting it will leave a nice texture for epoxy to stick to. Epoxy is not porous, high build is. Etch primer is old tech.