#1  
Old 04-23-2017, 11:14 PM
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codyyy codyyy is offline
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Default Disc brake conversion '61

Has anyone successfully installed and ran the disc brake conversion for the '61-'64 cars, either made by Ames or Scarebird? I think they are the same kit. The reason I am asking is because I bought the Scarebird kit and am in the process of putting the discs on. I already emailed Scarebird and am waiting for a response, which he is good about, but the more opinions the better.

My problem is that after I installed the A13 and A2 races into the rotor, packed bearings and put the special spacer onto the spindle and put the rotor on, the rotor makes a slight grinding noise at a certain angle. I have not installed the calipers or pads yet. I noticed the spacer does turn with the rotor and did slip right onto the spindle, I am not sure if this is normal. I certainly do not want to drive the car before addressing this. Thanks.

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Old 04-26-2017, 12:31 AM
alleyCat alleyCat is offline
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I was looking into the Scarebird setup myself. It still may be an option. Did you ever get this figured out Codyy ?

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Old 04-26-2017, 07:46 AM
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62cat 62cat is offline
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I have Scarebird kits on 2 of my 62 cats. Both worked real well.

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Old 04-26-2017, 04:45 PM
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They contacted me pretty fast, I was not expecting them to reply on Sunday but they did. They said to try red Loctite on the spacer. I will try that but I don't know if it would help because the spacer is extremely loose on the spindle. The spindle doesn't look worn, perhaps machined a little too much? Ball bearings probably can still function with a bit of play from the factory. I'm trying to figure out if I can use Impala spindles if I have to.

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Old 05-01-2017, 08:24 PM
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I tried the red Loc-tite, at first it didn't work but I put more on it and it seems to hold up. The passenger side sleeve is actually tighter going on than the driver's side. The grinding noise is coming from the inside of the rotor hitting the bolt head that connects the two brackets together. Scarebird suggested grinding the head down, which I thought about doing. I may either do that or countersink the hole and use an allen bolt with a countersunk head instead (just to make sure I have clearance, in case the rotor ever warps I don't want it hitting the bolts while driving). Finding the adapters for the hoses to the front brake lines was difficult, no one around here seems to get into inverted flare stuff anymore. I found a Mustang website that has the adapters in stock and am now waiting for them to come in. Later on I plan to convert the lines to 3/16" and use the appropriate tee connection as well as put in a newer style booster and master cylinder, as well as a proportioning valve.
Even later on than that I may just convert over to Impala stuff and have new axles made for the rear end to match, 5 on 5 stuff is getting harder to find.

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Old 05-01-2017, 10:25 PM
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pfilean pfilean is offline
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If you change to the Chevy bolt pattern a good machine shop can redrill your axles by spacing the holes between what is there. That's what was done to mine when it was converted to disc and it seems fine.

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Old 05-01-2017, 11:11 PM
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I was thinking about that option as well, this rear end may cost a lot depending on what I'll want to do.

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