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#1
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I'm having a problem with the front brakes dragging or sticking. First I changed
the front calipers, rotors and pads but both calipers are still dragging. I can open the line from the master cyl to bleed of and it frees the brakes and allow it to be driven again untill I apply the brakes a couple times and then the dragging is present again. By this time im thinking it must be the master cyl so I changed it and the brake booster. The brakes are still dragging so I changed the front rubber lines. I have also tried disconnecting the abs electrical connections but that hasn't helped. What is the problem? I have spent a lot of time and money but no positive result as of today. Joe |
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#2
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Have you checked the proportioning valve?
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#3
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I couldn't find a proportioning valve. They may not have one on the ABS equipped trucks?
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#4
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I may be wrong, but do the pads set inside the frame that is bolted to the steering knuckle, then the Caliper slide over the pads? I forgot as my wife sold her ‘03 a few years ago. But I remember I had to actually clean the corrosion up with a file as a wire brush wouldn’t even budge the rust. The pads kept hanging up in that frame. Just a thought
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‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. ‘55 Catalina ‘62 Mercury Meteor-all original, bought new by my grandfather 71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs.-now my sons ride |
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#5
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might be time for hoses ..... just went thru this with my motorhome
1988 454 33 000 miles was it doing it b4 you did the work ? |
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#6
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This isn't an uncommon problem after searching the net a bit. I copied and pasted another 05 owner that sounds like the same situation as yours.
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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Brad Yost 1973 T/A (SOLD) 2005 GTO 1984 Grand Prix 100% Pontiacs in my driveway!!! What's in your driveway? If you don't take some of the RACETRACK home with you, Ya got cheated ![]() ![]() ![]()
Last edited by Sirrotica; 07-19-2020 at 07:04 PM. |
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#7
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Do you have a part number and brand name for the booster with the adjustable rod?
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#8
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Quote:
My personal take might be to try a shim/shims on the firewall to get some extra travel for the brake pedal. Or perhaps between the booster and MC. It would accomplish the same thing as an adjustable push rod. Evidently the system is quite close to not having enough clearance as it was designed. As the truck gets miles on it the balance changes the wrong way causing this residual pressure due to too little/reduced travel of the components. I personally have never worked on this problem, just getting some feedback from owners that have run into the problem, tried all the obvious fixes as you have and found out the problem is in the area of the booster. Rock Auto has a bunch of them with notations, here's the link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...e+booster,1884 |
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#9
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thanks I will try to fix the problem sometime this week and post the results here. Joe
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#10
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I have replaced the booster and master cyl also because of the brake fluid in the booster. I may try a another booster with the adjustable rod
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#11
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I just took a late night drive and the brakes started to drag bad I backed the master cyl nuts of about 3 full turns and the truck about ran off to leave me alone! I will shim it this week and hopefully be done with it if I can't find a booster with the adjustable rod.
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#12
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Quote:
__________________
“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
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#13
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Sorry I’m really late to replying to this post,& hopefully you have corrected the problem.... if not, it could possibly be the ABS brake control module? Could be it’s not fully releasing pump solenoid on one (or more) circuits? The pump & control are usually Mounted back under bed on left frame rail. Just saw this on an Impala where was holding 1 rear brake.(not locked,but dragging)
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#14
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Can you tell us more about the truck? Is it a crew cab or heavy duty, 4 wheel disc brakes or front disc rear drum etc?
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#15
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My '02 Silverado had a similar issue on the rear calipers. The brackets have a coating that swells when rust develops under it. Pealing the coating off and blasting the rust off the area where the anti-rattle clips sit, and lubing with caliper grease cured mine (for now).
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Monty Frerichs B&M Machine Box Elder SD |
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#16
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The truck is a 2005 single cab 4 wheel drive 5 speed with the 4.8 front disc and rear drum
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#17
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The hoses are breaking down internally and acting like a check valve. The hoses should be replaced first before anything else.
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Illinois Outlaw Gassers 6.27@107 9.97@131 |
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#18
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Shimmed the master cyl. 1/4 " from booster problem solved.
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#19
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Quote:
It's fixed.
__________________
“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
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#20
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Just curious. Could improper bleeding w/ABS cause air in the lines resulting in this??
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Rich The real democratic American idea is, not that every man shall be on a level with every other man, but that every man shall have liberty to be what God made him, without hindrance. Henry Ward Beecher "The problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money." Margaret Thatcher |
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