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#1
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Went to bolt my converter to the flexplate and I notice I have a tiny gap - maybe. 030" between the 3 threaded blocks and the flexplate after I pull the converter "forward". Is this normal and maybe I've never paid attention to it? I can see the flexplate move as I tighten the bolts to close the gap.
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#2
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Is this a different converter than what was in it before?
It might be a problem, if it is different. The locating ring on the converter may be hitting the crank not letting the converter pull up tight. If so, you can use a spacer/washer between the converter and the flexplate to space it out. The distance shouldn't make a difference. The only problem with this is that the ring helps center the converter. You may have to make sure it is centered after tightening.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! W.E.C moment "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
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#3
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I would check the gap with converter pulled to the transmission (rear).
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#4
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If you drop the transmission, check the fit of the converter to the crank. The snout may just have too much paint to seat in the crankshaft, or it could be off dimensionally. If you get that resolved, on install check the spacing between the bolt pads of the converter and the flywheel when the converter is pushed all the way into the transmission. Ideally, the gap to be taken up when the converter is bolted down should be the thickness of a nickel and a dime stacked.
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#5
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It is a different converter but from a sister "donor" car. Previous owner put an annoying high stall unit in there so I swapped it out with an original stock piece. The clearance with converter pushed all the way to the rear is exactly 1/4". From what I find online that is correct. The snout was a good fit when I tested it. How about I find some .030 washers to use as shims?
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#6
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1/4” is too much.
Should be somewhere between 1/8” and 3/16”. Put a .060” or .070” shim, a hardened grade 8 flat washer of the exact same thickness at each bolt location and you’re good. That solves the problem you posted above and gives you the proper converter engagement into the pump.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#7
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If I remember right the tangs on the converter are only about 1/4 deep. If you need to pull the converter out that much you wont have much engagement on the pump. What b-man said should work.
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