[jimib]

RetroJoe,

This is the feedback I definitely need.
Are these problems recent from PY? I thought they have been selling these kits for years and by now have the kinks worked out. That sucks if they are using you as their guinea pig.

I could go with 15” wheels but clearance concerns me.

Thanks for your input and keep us posted. It is info like this that forces a company to do better....or go under. I'm glad they have the customer service right.

Jim

[judgeITO]

Dudes,
all these aftermarket deals sound like one big pain in the ass, why not just go with a 69-72 A-body swap, get new loaded calipers and M-cyl and rotors, and your stopping real good for under $600.00. All the tubing is readily available at most parts stores. No compatiblity issues to speak of, they bolt right up no sweat. Mine stops great, took less than a day to get it done.
ITO

[our70gto]

I called Ames and their kit is $730 power disc conversion and includes all lines, front and rear. Has anyone used the kit from Ames?

[jimib]

Joe,

I understand completely about the tires and 15” rims, just sounds like the tires I were to buy for the 15’s would be a low profile tire, which would work for me.

I guess I’ll do this right and purchase four 15” rims. Oh well, there goes another $1000.00 not to include tires.

I think I’ll stay away from PY and focus on Stainless Steel Brakes, Master Power Brakes, and possible Baer Brakes Systems that another mentioned in this thread.

Jim

[JBaptista]

It seems like there is some consensus...

I got my SSBC front discs with 2" drop, Hotchkiss springs, ADDCO rear swaybar, KYB Shocks last Friday. My P-S-T Super Front End Polygraphite kit arrived today.

I'm going to be a busy boy. I'll post some pictures soon...

[462conv68]

I just ordered my ssbc brake conversion kit from summit for 859. I have already purchased a p-s-t super front end kit with polygraphite and a 1 1/4 sway bar to go with new springs and kyb gas a just shocks.I will be starting install tomorrow. I'll let u know how it goes.

[olblue]

Doesn't sound like 14" wheels, huh?

[462conv68]

I started the swap after work on Saturday.I have my neighbor doing the job with my help as he is a restorer and has a safer place to do it.All was removed in a couple of hours that night.Sunday we bagan assemble and all fit great except for having to elongate a hole in the bracket for the booster.Quit working after 4 hours, mostly spent on the new a arm bushings,to get a spring compressor and lower ball joint tool today.

[aj66gto]

JudgeITO,

Will that set up work on a 66 GTO, 15" rims???

[retrojoe]

Jim, I bought this kit from PY back in November of '03. As of now, I think I'm still the only person that has bought one from PY. Working with the Right Stuff(the company that makes the kit) has been good, it just stinks that the bugs are not worked out yet. They didn't have any instructions with the kit at the time I bought it, and they finally finished a dvd/cd rom for it. They sent me one at my request, but I have the kit already installed. They do need a guide to help whomever buys one of their kits to help with the install. Any time I've called and talked with Doug, I have received first class service. Some of the issues that I had with my kit was, the dust caps were wrong,the rear brakelines wouldn't go on,the line that goes from the P-valve to the rear lines was wrong, the caliper brackets were not quite right. They have replaced everything which was nice and they did it in a timely manner. I am going to try to see if I can get the caliper brackets to clear the wheels. They rub in a couple of spots. As for going with 15" wheels, you won't have any problems with clearance. I have talked with Mike Champion on this board, and he has been a wealth of info on tire size. He gave me a list of tire sizes that are th same size as the 14" tire size that go on my car. So even though I have 15" wheels, the tire height is still the same that it should be. Does that make any sense to you. Good luck, and feel free to contact me if you have any other questions on the kit. Joe.

[tininjun67]

It sounds as though some of you have not dealt too much with the aftermarket! Welcome to the world of hotrodding. If the line isn't bent correctly, bust out a tubing bender and make it right. If you guys are at a state where you are doing brake conversions, cutting and flaring tubing should be a no brainer. a little bracket fab work won't kill you either. I went with the tubular uppers and b-body spindles on my 67 gto. It was advertized at the time (12 years ago) that the taller spindles would also lower the car by 2". I did not qualify this with measurements, but was looking to lower the car anyway. Initially Global West sent me a-arms for a g-body. Sent them back for a-body arms. The camber is off by -2', requiring me to either use offset control arm shafts or relocate the mounting points on the frame. I went with the offset shafts. On the rear I went with caliper brackets from the rear of an 84 eldorado. Calipers from an S10 or G-body. No parking brake though. If I wanted a parking brake, the eldo caliper would work. For a Master, I went with one from an IROC camaro, with no booster, and no proportioning valve. 15 in wheels are required with the 12" rotors up front. To get the 5 x 4.75 bolt circle back, went with 1LE camaro rotors. At the time, I was president of the broke a$$ of the month club. The only new parts were the control arms and the front rotors. Everything else was from the salvage yard. Even the pads were scuffed and used. Total cost was $750. The arms alone were $400, rotors about $90 each.

[GDK_1968]

I went with conversion kit from Inline Tube (Shelby Township, MI) for my 69. I also picked up front stainless steel lines and fittings for '71 GTO to use instead of the spaghetti of lines they provide in the kit.

So far all parts are installing with ease. The lines will need some tweaking and I'll have to fabricate a bracket for the '71 proportioning valve to mount on the frame.

The professionalism and personalities of their technical help however is something to be desired. Overall I am pleased with the conversion kit.

For suspension on the front end I went with Performance Suspension Technology (PST) super front end kit with polygraphite bushings. Again, a very nice kit. Also bought their 1.25" front sway bar, nice unit.

Don't forget to get replacement hardware where possible and hopfully you have saved all the old hardware. About the only thing old for my installation are the screws that secire the front sway bar bushing brackets to the frame.

[Scarebird]

My brackets work with 14's though not the early drum Rally 1's.

[Mr_GTO]

http://baer.com/Media/ContentDetails.aspx?ContentID=107

I would get that kit.

[retrojoe]

Oh yeah, after much grinding and beating with a hammer, I was able to get the left side caliper brackets to fit. Chris, are you reading any of this????

[retrojoe]

I bought my kit from PY and it hasn't gone well at all! I found out that I am the first guy to buy a kit for a Pontiac and as they are finding out from me, that Chvelles and GTO/Lemans are not the same! I have been working with them on straightening out the bugs, but sure has taken alot of time! I bought the kit because it claims to work with 14" wheels, but it does not. I had to sent several parts back to them to get correct parts, and the caliper brakets still hit the wheels. I'm still waiting on the brake line that goes from the P-valve to the rear brake line. I've talked with several guys that have used other brake manufactures and they have had issues with each kit they bought. So be prepared to make lots of phone calls! The Right Stuff, which is the PY kit, does have great customer service, I'll give them that! So to rain on your parade, go to 15" wheels as well! You will end up there anyways.

[My64GTO]

I went with SSBC also to keep my 14" wheels. Parts were great, customer service was so-so.
I did it well before PY or any of the "newer" vendors carried the kits however...

[retrojoe]

Jim, I used the original (wrong) line that they sent me and cut it down to size. I was able to finish hooking everything up this afternoon. I hope to bleed the system tomorrow and I will let you know how it goes from there. I also forgot to mention that they did not include the bolts for the master brake booster. I had to get my own, which turned out to be metric!!!!

[jimib]

Actually that’s my plan. I’ll be purchasing all polyurethane bushings and most likely replace the majority of front end parts. Still weighing my options on though on tubular control arms. Don’t know if it’s worth the money. It’s just a street car.

[My64GTO]

Well your setup might be different. I had a single bowl master cylinder, without a power booster.

All of my lines met at a junction block on the frame then a single line off of that went to the master cylinder.

If you really want fun, make sure you rebuild the entire front end at the same time like I did! By the time I was done, the only original part that remained was the pitman arm. I did all of the bushings, ball joints, tierods, springs etc.... in a one car garage.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jimib:
My64GTO

The faceless “tone of voice” on the opposite end says much of the individual and employer whether good or bad. Sounds like your event was frustrating rather than painful, so I’ll still keep this company in mind. This is great to know however.

I’m certainly trying to avoid mix and match parts but just a prop valve and brake lines doesn’t sound too bad.

By the way, I thought the original brake lines would work.
Is it necessary to replace the master cylinder and power boaster also?

This should be a fun project!!!! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>