[Charlie455]

I got the dreaded call from my son last night saying he was broke-down 20 miles from home. I thought I heard a growling sound as he drove away last night but decided it could wait until he got back. Serves me right. Assuming the burst line he described that coated the engine compartment is his high-pressure steering line, could anyone tell me if it would make his steering un-turnable at all? I told him that w/o the functional hydraulic system in the steering unit, that he should still be able to steer but that it would be very difficult. He said that he couldn't turn it so I'm wondering if anyone can give me a heads up as to what else I might be ready for when I get out there after work today to install a new line with him.

Thanks,

Chas.

[AlexDevlin]

I had the same happen on my 96 Grand Am.
You can still steer but it's very heavy and truthfully I wouldn't drive it at all in that condition for two reasons;

1) The steering is heavy enough that you may not be able to steer to avoid something unexpected.

2) Not having any fluid could destroy the pump as it will be running dry.

Safest bet would be to replace the hose before driving it or have it towed somewhere to work on.

Alex Devlin

[Charlie455]

Thanks Alex.

I called the dealership and they suspected that the pump could be bad anyway. But I'll have it towed just the same. Knowing that the hose is obviously trashed, would there be anything you could suggest why it failed? because the pump was making a growling sound, I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the pump for fear of scraping a new hose. I can't understand how a pump thats considered "bad" could over pressure a hydraulic line.

Thanks,

Charlie

[AlexDevlin]

In mine the hose went just because of age. There was a growling sound from the pump if you turned the wheel but that was due to the fluid level being low. The growl was the pump sucking at nothing. Can't say I've ever heard of a pump going bad and over pressuring the line.

I think getting the pump replaced at the same time is your call. If you can afford it and it gives you peace of mind then go for it. I would probably go for the new hose and see what happens then.

One thing you could try, put some fluid in the pump and turn the wheel side to side. It will take a turn or several to get all the fluid in and the air out. Then you can hear the growl if it's still there with full fluid. Watch out 'cos you will have fluid spraying out of the hose and depending on how shot the hose is you may not be able to get enough fluid in to fill it.

Good luck and hope I helped out some.

Alex Devlin

[Mark O]

The pump wont over pressurize the new hose. Pump has a chack valve in it to prevent this. Never seen one go bad either.

Did P.S. fluid get all over the belt and cause the belt to come off?

ME-I'd replace the hose and as long as the pump was quiet, I'd leave it alone.

[Charlie455]

Thanks for the responses.

Well I got a chance to look it over last night finally. It wasn't even the H/P hose either. It was a tiny steel tube that broke at the fitting along top of a long tube that stretches from side to side. I stopped at the dealer on the way into work to purchase a replacement of what looked like a simple 1/8" x 8"-10" long tube with a few bends in it only to discover the part was about $85.00!! (PN:26053450)I also noticed another tube of the same material that was disconnected from the passenger side of this long iron tube that the broken line went into. The dearler said it was a vent tube that apparently helped to equalize the pressure. It looks like it can just be pushed back into the plastic fiting that it came out of. I am wondering if an appaernt wheel misalighnment may have created all of this trouble by allowing this tube to come undone but I'm unfamiliar with this kind of Power Steering system. Would anyone know what pressure rating and size tubing this is and the fittings so I can just pick them up at a local supply instead of taking the part off tonight and then taking it back tomorrow to match the parts? I have variuous materials at the plant I work at and could gather the pices if I knew which ones were right. (Metric or American spec) I'd like to finish this tonight.

Charlie

[Charlie455]

Wishful thinking again for me. I got the car up on ramps so I could get to the fittings and replace the bad line. It was then that I was able to see why the line had broken in the first place. About 4-5 more inches towards the drivers side, hidden behind a bracket, I saw that the Steering Gear Housing had burst all the way around. That explained why the vent tube was pulled away from the other side. I looked up what the replacement cost would be on WholesaleParts4u.com $764.00. It's a guess as to how to get the thing out to a rookie like me though. I tried to disconnect the Tie Rod End to free up the broken half and couldn't even get the nut to come off. Looks like I'd better find a mechanic who knows how to help. Anyone ever hear of one of these parts bursting like this and how it could happen?

Chas.

[meanolegoat]

I must say I've never seen a steering rack burst. First remove both front wheels, remove the cotter keys on the outer tie rod ends. Smack the knuckle where the ends are with a bfh
(big hammer). Remove steering coupler bolt on drivers side (probably will have to lift up on a plastic boot, this is the connecting joint b-tween gear and column). Drop rear of engine cradle down somewhat to remove lines and gear. Cost of replacement rack from Autozone/Advance probably $200.00.... Also will need to have an alignment done, toe re-set....
"mean"

[Charlie455]

Thanks! I removed (unthreaded) the tie rod ends from the rack and pinion assembly but was unable to get the nuts off at the other end at the wheel. I looked but didn't see any cotter pins either. Is it some special design that is very small or something? The stud freed itself from the tapered bore and I was unable to continue turning it out with a wrench. (I'm probably going to have to get a nut splitter on it now) Also, is it safe to position my jack stands a few inches behind where that large engine/trans backet assembly is that I am going to be loosening in the next few steps? I checked the owners manual and chilton manual but it did not specify the proper location to support with jack stands.

Chas.