[Bracket Racer]

Craig - Trans brakes are literally a kick in the pants. I don't know that I could compare 60 ft's before and after because my car was going through other changes at the same time as the brake. With the Hipster brake the trans functions normally (manual reverse valve body, no need to hold the button for reverse). The best 60ft I have ever had was 1.293. I run a 32 tall 15 wide Hoosier slick and a 4 link. I have some shots of the car under the topic "Track Results - Licensing" in the Lobby. The car has a 54% rear weight bias with the motor lowered and moved back about one foot. The timing cover sits behind the spindle centerline, to give you an idea. See the pics. With a brake I was able to gain more confidence in my ability to cut good lights because I found I could be more consistent with the brake than I could footbraking the car. You'll definitely want a quality converter. Mine is a TCI 8" custom ordered with spec's that Jim Butler provided. Some people use a two step on the brake but I prefer to matt the pedal and let the converter decide what my launch rpm is going to be. I studied just about every dyno sheet I could find of other Pontiac race motors and it always seems like peak torque falls between 4500 - 5200 on a well prepped combination. My TCI stalls at 5000. Ideally (if your tires and suspension can hold it) you want to leave around peak torque and shift just a smidge past peak HP is what I have been told before. I think the current set-up I have is about right. Once you get the car hooked solid you'll want to have a rear-end that won't need to be sewpt off the starting line in little pieces after you let go of the button. This is why I run a Dana 60 and Richmond Pro-Gears. The pro gear doesn't last as long because it's softer (Rockwell Scale) than street gears and aborbs the shock loads better. The trans brake is so fun that I think I would want one if I were still driving a street car, the psychology of sitting at a street light in an auto car with the tach buzzing at full stall would have the guy next to you so pumped he'd see tail lights before he knew the light had turned green. Not that I advocate street racing mind you especially when it's so easy to go to a sactioned track. Good luck with the brake if you decide to put one in. Maybe you could share some before and after for the rest of us once you get it dialed in for maximum stickage on the line!

[Old Man Taylor]

Craig - I have 168 flawless runs on my trans. All but about 4 of them have been using the trans brake. My trans was first built without a brake, then I had it re-done to add the brake. That is a story of its own. I am not aware of anything done to it just because it has the brake. The only downside is how reverse works. On mine it only works with the trans brake button energized. That makes it a little hard to back up.

http://www.jimspontiac.homestead.com/Index.html

[Paul Spotts]

The trans is the same but needs the special converter with the anti-balooning plate. Its a disc or ring welded at the back of the converter. I ran my reg converter and broke it when I went to the brake. I used the JW brake and it was excellent. The brake is also used with a reverse shift pattern as well. Your reaction time improves when the brake is hooked up to a 2 step or Co2 throttle control. I used the Co2 as the 2 steps are harder on cranks (yet I know guys that have used 2 steps for years with no crank failure).

[Old Man Taylor]

I have never tried mine in 2nd or 3rd, but I know that it works in neutral. My guess is that mine works anytime you push the button.

http://www.jimspontiac.homestead.com/Index.html

[RH152]

GTOi dont build trannys but you also have to drill holes in the high gear drum to releive pressure or you can blow the snap ring out i use Select performance for my transmission worki have a turbo 400 in my 11sec firebird took it out of my grand am 5yrs ago has over 1000runs still going .use ATI converters last one had 8 yrs of use before select rebuilt it hope ths info helps

pure pontiacpowerd 86 grand am
455 eheads hyd. cam 9.24 at 145

[boykoman]

Try Rossler Transmission he does a lot of super stock stuff its the brake I run.

[Craig Berkheimer]

Well BR, This "maximum stickage" at the line may propose a problem. I currently run a M/T 29.9-10.5w.(minitubed) I can't get anything much bigger in there. I also won't do a full tube on the car. So I wonder if it will hook. The current convertor flashes to 5500, hits rather hard and 60fts a 1.40 consistantly. Will the brake just hit the tire that much harder and plant it, or am I wishful thinking. Sounds as though I'll probably tear the 12 bolt up as well! Humm! Starting to sound think a bad idea.

[nhraracer]

Bracket Racer,

You're getting some real good advice here. Our car ran its first season without a brake, and could 60 ft. 1.29. With a brake (Hipster, BTW), we really didn't pick up much, but the car left much more crisply. We are now down to 1.19, but that's because of power and gear than TB. Lights are much more consistent. You will need a delay box if you're running Super Pro, otherwise you won't be competitive. Don't worry about the twelve bolt, unless you've got stock stuff inside. We run a 12 bolt with all MW and it's the lightest (fastest) combo around. No need for nine inch!!! Hope this helps, good luck!

EW
compedgeracing.com


[This message has been edited by nhraracer (edited 12-19-2000).]

[Guy Mazza]

....thanks for the input!

[Tim Corcoran]

I have been foot braking this combo for several years. I just recently went to a trans brake. It is a TCI that I got from Summit. It is actually a kit and comes with several parts not just a valve boby. It has a reverse pattern valve body, special springs, valves etc. The installer also needs to do some mods to the trans upon installation. If you go on the TCI web page you can even see the installation instructions and what is included in the kit if your interested. My first time out was a disaster, I either red lighted, cut a terrible light, or I was shifting from 1st to neutral. Glad to have a rev limiter. Second time out was a little better but still had trouble red lighting and was not ver consistent. I talked to a guy at the track and he gave me some tips on using a brake. Third time out I was finally getting used to the brake. My lights are better now than ever and a lot more consistent. I will never go back to foot braking. I love it. And the car launches harder than ever, great wheelies too.

Tim C

65 LeMans, 3700lb. all steel, full interior, D-ports and a flat tappet cam, 11.06@122

[Ron]

In some trans brakes you CAN hit the button in 2nd or 3rd and engage the tans brake. One of our racers with PDD did it........TWICE. Very expensive repairs as the TH400 was a high dollar trans.

Ron

[Craig Berkheimer]

Can anyone help answer the question GTO asked?

OMT, how's your Trans-King brake working?

Outlaw Pontiac Racers Association
"For Those Who Live The Legend"
www.outlawpontiacs.com

[Bracket Racer]

I don't do any of my own trans work, I leave that up to others who know what they are doing but essentially the transbrake is a modified valve body with a solenoid operated spool valve that when activated locks the transmission in both low and reverse gears at the same time. When you let go of the micro switch, it releases the solenoid which releases reverse gear and in my case, the front suspension rockets out of the beams until I'm on the wheelie bar and just as the front wheels are coming back to earth, I'm grabbing second gear! It's a rush, you'll wonder why you evever tried footbraking at the track! After you get used to it it's much easier to cut good lights, at least it was for me.

[This message has been edited by Bracket Racer (edited 10-21-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Bracket Racer (edited 10-21-2000).]

[John Langer]

The 10.5w tire is really a big tire, I think that the side wall is something like 13". I have a slapper bar suspension in my car and I don't have a problem making my car work with a brake and 9" wide DOT tire. It takes time to work the suspension out when using a brake. Footing it doesn't shock the tires as hard. Put a 2-step in the car to find out were the car wants to leave. I tried something like 4 converters before I found one that worked. I leave a 4000 and it flashes to 4800. Now, if I foot brake the car the 60' is only off by around .02, but the car starts to creap and binds the suspention at 2200 rpm. Foot brake converters are designed differently then that for a brake. I use coan converters. They are in Indiana. They are a pain in the ass buy they work. Turbo action makes good converters as well. I would try to stay away from the larger companies because they just mass produce their parts and will try to find the closest off the shelf part that fits your application instead of making one around your application. Hope this is of some help?

[John Langer]

I have been running a trans-specialities pro-tree trans brake for around 4-5 years now. It is pretty fast, I usually cut .460-.480 lights with a t-400 in a 3400 lb car and 9" tire. Griner brakes are really good (fast) as well but the valve body is expensive.

[Old Man Taylor]

BR - With your 5000 stall converter - What rpm does it lock up at? What do you go through the lights at? And how much slippage do you believe you have through the lights?