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#1
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What brand of oil do you use & why. Some say oil is oil, but like filters all are not equal...what is the better oil to protect your $$, and sweat & blood you put into your engine?
------------------ Cruise On!!!
__________________
Cruise On!!! http://kurtspontiac.homestead.com/Larrys67GTO.html |
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#2
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What brand of oil do you use & why. Some say oil is oil, but like filters all are not equal...what is the better oil to protect your $$, and sweat & blood you put into your engine?
------------------ Cruise On!!!
__________________
Cruise On!!! http://kurtspontiac.homestead.com/Larrys67GTO.html |
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#3
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Synthetics, Mobil One or Synergyn. http://PontiacPower.cc
NOS "is" Power!! |
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#4
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Dude,
I used Mobile One several years ago when It first made the debut and the motor started leaking. Rear main, oil pan , valve covers ... Is this still a problem today with Synthetics or was this just a coincidence. The problem seemed to vanish when I went back to Castrol Crude. BTW it was in a 350 Chev. Joe
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""Guitar groups are on the way out", "The Beatles have no future in show business" Decca Records rejection of The Beatles - 1962" |
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#5
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I was always sold on Pennzoil. It claims to non parafin based/low ash content(when burned).
------------------ [email protected] |
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#6
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if not using synthetics i prefer shell rotella.
in regards to the leakage question above; synthetics will leak past smaller gaps than conventional oils. at least this was what a field rep told us. he didn't recommend them in an engine that had alot of miles on it with the conventional oils. as for racing apps i agree 100% with the dude. synthetics equal less friction.less friction = speed. mike
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so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
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#7
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With my 428's history of eating bearings and also the thrust bearing problem, after I got it all fixed I decided to switch to synthetic oil. Tougher film strength was the main reason without having to resort to very heavy oil. Using Mobile 1 10W30 I don't have any worse leakage problem than before, just a little weeping from the rear mail but my rope always leaked a little. Last filter inspection showed no signs of glitter.
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#8
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I have heard that Amsoil and Redline are very good oils. Expensive at around $8 / Qt. Anyone have experience with these oils and how do they compare to Mobile 1? Worth the extra expense?
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#9
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Oil is oil, hehe.
Synthetics are great in a racing motor, or one that the oil gets changed very fequently. The synthetics have problems if you run them in a street engine. They don't like water and do not suspend combustion byproducts very well. This causes some really nasty looking sludge to build up. Synthetics should not be used in a motor that is run for short periods that doesn't have time to reach operating temps. Also they should be changed every 3000 or less miles. Other than that synthetics are great. If you would like more info on synthetics, call Mobil and ask them why they no longer make a synthetic oil for aviation piston engines. Then ask them how many millions they paid out to repair the damage. ------------------ "Run wild with an Indian, not with the crowd in a Chevy" Check out my restoration at http://members.aol.com/jetmech15/gto
__________________
Less said,,,,,,,, Less mended. |
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#10
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Tried synthetics once in my 78 T/A... something i'll never do again. During the time i had the snthetic in there, the engine heated up more than ever, leaks started to form, and i had to add a quart each 100 miles or so until all the synthetic finally disappeared. Castrol would be the spcific brand i had in there. Back to Havoline for me, cheap and i've never had any problem with it.
SiberWolf |
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#11
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Tin, years ago I read about Mobil 1 in aircraft engines and I believe the problem stemmed from the use of Mobil 1 with leaded AvGas.
I use synthetic in all my cars. The engine cranks over easily, even in the dead of winter. Regards, George
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#12
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Mobil 1 synthetic. Price is right and noticeable difference in performance. Some extra leakage can be an issue without quality gasket seal. For conventional oil, Quakerstate has the greatest film strength per industry tests. To test film strength metal is coated with oil and a ball bearing under hydraulic pressure behind it is rolled across the surface. Pressure is increased untill the ball bearing breaks through the film.
Todd |
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#13
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I ALWAYS USED MANUFACTURE RECOMMENDED OIL VISCOSITIES. CHANGE OIL AND FILTER 3000-4000
MILES. YEARS AGO, I ALWAYS ADDED WYNN'S FRICTION PROOFING TO EVERY CHANGE BECAUSE I DID MY ON LUBE,OIL & FILTERS. IF OILS HAVE THE NECESSARY SE SPECS THEY SHOULD BE FINE. IT SEEMS EACH MFG. HAS A MINIMUM REQUIREMENT. ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THE DEALERS USE? NEVER EVER HAD ENGINE PROBLEMS SINCE I'VE BEEN DRIVING. NEVER USED SYNTHETICS BUT YEARS BACK, SOME OF THOSE GRAFITE OILS DID LOTS OF ENGINES IN. |
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#14
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George:
Mobil told everyone that it was because of the lead in the fuel, and then they paid off all the damage claims so that it would stay hush hush. Having seen the damage first hand, I can tell you it wasn't because of the lead. Lead doesn't cause major cylinder damage. The Mobil AV1 oil caused severe scoring and accellerated wear of the cylinder bores. It just could not lubricate the cylinder walls, why, I have no idea. Just goes to show, if you have enough money, you can keep anything quiet. ------------------ "Run wild with an Indian, not with the crowd in a Chevy" Check out my restoration at http://members.aol.com/jetmech15/gto
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Less said,,,,,,,, Less mended. |
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#15
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Does anyone know of documented cases of automotive engine failures resulting from the use of Mobil 1 oil or any other synthetic motor oil?
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#16
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Pep Boys 10W30.i don't care if my motor leaks,at 78 cents a quart,who cares?
i just changed the intake gasket on my brother's 455 olds with about 5000 miles,and he runs that valvoline max life crap.i scraped a little sludge off below the lifter bores!!!what's up with that? |
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#17
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I run Penzoil. Why? Because dad said so and I don't argue with 50+ years of experience on internal combustion engines. I'm using their synthetic in my TA. It was a new motor. Break in was done with the old dino-crude Penzoil and then I switched the synthetic in. I haven't seen a significant difference in leaks but a marked improvement in how quickly the motor will wrap up.
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12.84 @ 106.89 with street radials. 12.63 @ 108.39 on drag radials. |
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#18
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Been using Castrol [10/30 and 10/40 and 30W per seasonal whim and sale] oil in my 428s and 455s has shown good bearing surfaces, no sludges except for a teeny bit in the corner head bolts.
Used to use the long orange Fram PH8A filter, now using the long Blue Delco filter [PF2?]. I hear on good word that BP oil is so good that the UK folks are buying it up like Sam Smith's Winter Welcome.
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95 Towncar that needs more TQ. Sold 2023: 12.24/111.6MPH/1.76 60'/28"/3.54:1/SP-TH400/469 R96A/236-244-112LC/1050&TorkerI//3850Lbs//15MPG/89oct Sold 2003: 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60'/26"x3.31:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Q-Jet-Torker/3650Lbs//18MPG 94oct Sold 1994: 11.00/123MPH/1.50 60'/29.5"x4.10:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Dual600s-Wenzler/3250Lbs//94oct |
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#19
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Been running Castrol for 33 years!
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#20
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The best oil is whatever dead dino is on sale at 99 cents or less. If its a quart low its time to change. I'm so cheap I let the Pontiac oil sit in a gallon jug a couple weeks and pour the top 2/3rds into my old Datsun 310 along with a new on sale filter.
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![]() My Daddy bought me a car but all I got was this old Pontiac.
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