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Old 09-17-2000, 03:42 PM
Larry 67 Larry 67 is offline
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What brand of oil do you use & why. Some say oil is oil, but like filters all are not equal...what is the better oil to protect your $$, and sweat & blood you put into your engine?

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Old 09-17-2000, 03:42 PM
Larry 67 Larry 67 is offline
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What brand of oil do you use & why. Some say oil is oil, but like filters all are not equal...what is the better oil to protect your $$, and sweat & blood you put into your engine?

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  #3  
Old 09-17-2000, 05:28 PM
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Synthetics, Mobil One or Synergyn. http://PontiacPower.cc
NOS "is" Power!!

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Old 09-17-2000, 05:59 PM
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Dude,
I used Mobile One several years ago when It first made the debut and the motor started leaking. Rear main, oil pan , valve covers ... Is this still a problem today with Synthetics or was this just a coincidence.
The problem seemed to vanish when I went back to Castrol Crude. BTW it was in a 350 Chev.
Joe

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  #5  
Old 09-17-2000, 08:39 PM
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I was always sold on Pennzoil. It claims to non parafin based/low ash content(when burned).

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Old 09-18-2000, 08:54 AM
mike nixon mike nixon is offline
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if not using synthetics i prefer shell rotella.
in regards to the leakage question above; synthetics will leak past smaller gaps than conventional oils. at least this was what a field rep told us. he didn't recommend them in an engine that had alot of miles on it with the conventional oils.
as for racing apps i agree 100% with the dude. synthetics equal less friction.less friction = speed. mike

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Old 09-18-2000, 08:59 AM
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With my 428's history of eating bearings and also the thrust bearing problem, after I got it all fixed I decided to switch to synthetic oil. Tougher film strength was the main reason without having to resort to very heavy oil. Using Mobile 1 10W30 I don't have any worse leakage problem than before, just a little weeping from the rear mail but my rope always leaked a little. Last filter inspection showed no signs of glitter.

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Old 09-18-2000, 09:02 AM
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I have heard that Amsoil and Redline are very good oils. Expensive at around $8 / Qt. Anyone have experience with these oils and how do they compare to Mobile 1? Worth the extra expense?

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Old 09-18-2000, 10:33 AM
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Oil is oil, hehe.
Synthetics are great in a racing motor, or one that the oil gets changed very fequently. The synthetics have problems if you run them in a street engine. They don't like water and do not suspend combustion byproducts very well. This causes some really nasty looking sludge to build up. Synthetics should not be used in a motor that is run for short periods that doesn't have time to reach operating temps. Also they should be changed every 3000 or less miles. Other than that synthetics are great.

If you would like more info on synthetics, call Mobil and ask them why they no longer make a synthetic oil for aviation piston engines. Then ask them how many millions they paid out to repair the damage.

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Old 09-20-2000, 08:33 PM
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Tried synthetics once in my 78 T/A... something i'll never do again. During the time i had the snthetic in there, the engine heated up more than ever, leaks started to form, and i had to add a quart each 100 miles or so until all the synthetic finally disappeared. Castrol would be the spcific brand i had in there. Back to Havoline for me, cheap and i've never had any problem with it.

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Old 09-20-2000, 11:13 PM
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Tin, years ago I read about Mobil 1 in aircraft engines and I believe the problem stemmed from the use of Mobil 1 with leaded AvGas.

I use synthetic in all my cars. The engine cranks over easily, even in the dead of winter.

Regards, George

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Old 09-21-2000, 12:44 AM
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Mobil 1 synthetic. Price is right and noticeable difference in performance. Some extra leakage can be an issue without quality gasket seal. For conventional oil, Quakerstate has the greatest film strength per industry tests. To test film strength metal is coated with oil and a ball bearing under hydraulic pressure behind it is rolled across the surface. Pressure is increased untill the ball bearing breaks through the film.

Todd

  #13  
Old 09-21-2000, 10:55 AM
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I ALWAYS USED MANUFACTURE RECOMMENDED OIL VISCOSITIES. CHANGE OIL AND FILTER 3000-4000
MILES. YEARS AGO, I ALWAYS ADDED WYNN'S FRICTION PROOFING TO EVERY CHANGE BECAUSE I DID MY ON LUBE,OIL & FILTERS. IF OILS HAVE THE NECESSARY SE SPECS THEY SHOULD BE FINE. IT SEEMS EACH MFG. HAS A MINIMUM REQUIREMENT. ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THE DEALERS USE? NEVER EVER HAD ENGINE PROBLEMS SINCE I'VE BEEN DRIVING. NEVER USED SYNTHETICS BUT YEARS BACK, SOME OF THOSE GRAFITE OILS DID LOTS OF ENGINES IN.

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Old 09-21-2000, 04:35 PM
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George:
Mobil told everyone that it was because of the lead in the fuel, and then they paid off all the damage claims so that it would stay hush hush. Having seen the damage first hand, I can tell you it wasn't because of the lead.
Lead doesn't cause major cylinder damage. The Mobil AV1 oil caused severe scoring and accellerated wear of the cylinder bores. It just could not lubricate the cylinder walls, why, I have no idea.
Just goes to show, if you have enough money, you can keep anything quiet.

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Old 09-21-2000, 05:57 PM
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Does anyone know of documented cases of automotive engine failures resulting from the use of Mobil 1 oil or any other synthetic motor oil?

  #16  
Old 09-22-2000, 01:13 AM
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Pep Boys 10W30.i don't care if my motor leaks,at 78 cents a quart,who cares?
i just changed the intake gasket on my brother's 455 olds with about 5000 miles,and he runs that valvoline max life crap.i scraped a little sludge off below the lifter bores!!!what's up with that?

  #17  
Old 09-22-2000, 07:40 PM
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I run Penzoil. Why? Because dad said so and I don't argue with 50+ years of experience on internal combustion engines. I'm using their synthetic in my TA. It was a new motor. Break in was done with the old dino-crude Penzoil and then I switched the synthetic in. I haven't seen a significant difference in leaks but a marked improvement in how quickly the motor will wrap up.

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  #18  
Old 09-22-2000, 11:41 PM
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Been using Castrol [10/30 and 10/40 and 30W per seasonal whim and sale] oil in my 428s and 455s has shown good bearing surfaces, no sludges except for a teeny bit in the corner head bolts.

Used to use the long orange Fram PH8A filter, now using the long Blue Delco filter [PF2?].


I hear on good word that BP oil is so good that the UK folks are buying it up like Sam Smith's Winter Welcome.

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Old 09-23-2000, 05:16 PM
Clark W Hein Clark W Hein is offline
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Been running Castrol for 33 years!

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Old 09-23-2000, 08:45 PM
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The best oil is whatever dead dino is on sale at 99 cents or less. If its a quart low its time to change. I'm so cheap I let the Pontiac oil sit in a gallon jug a couple weeks and pour the top 2/3rds into my old Datsun 310 along with a new on sale filter.

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