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  #21  
Old 10-18-2004, 06:42 PM
Vortex Vortex is offline
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Just posted an earlier message on this same issue but was looking for some advice; over the course of getting my car done it appears my former mechanic has replaced my stock carb with a 7037262 which I see now is for AIR cars. My new mechanic was telling me he cant get the thing to ide once it warms up and now maybe I can see why. Im wondering what I should do now, try to modify what I have (doubtful) or find somebody with a 7027262 that may want to swap. My mechanic has rebuilt this one twice, it probably will run great on the right car. Any takers?

  #22  
Old 11-06-2004, 02:11 PM
TopdownloGTO TopdownloGTO is offline
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Maybe I am the lucky one. I bought my '67 restored and don't have any information about the rebuild. I have a 7037262 and have not experienced any problems (yet, knock knock). I have noticed that the idle adjust screws have a red cap on them (is that correct?) and they don't seem to affect the idle at all when turned. That would make sense if the A.I.R. primarlily affected idle.

  #23  
Old 11-06-2004, 06:34 PM
RJGTO67 RJGTO67 is offline
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Was the car made in CA? The carb is a CA AIR model for an auto trans. Does the car have an air pump now? If none of the above is true, you need more info about the state of tune; at least it is running fine. And don't even use the word "knock" around that engine!

  #24  
Old 11-07-2004, 12:06 PM
TopdownloGTO TopdownloGTO is offline
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My car is an East coast car (no air pump), sold in Virginia and rebuilt around Cincinatti. It has been running fine although I have to crank it a bit to start. I am looking at rebuilding the distributer and adding pertronix to it. I would like to get the carb adjuste properly, but now I am nervous because of other posts regarding the A.I.R. carb.

  #25  
Old 11-08-2004, 05:40 PM
RJGTO67 RJGTO67 is offline
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What you don't know is whether that carb has been rebuilt to the correct specs for a non AIR engine and even then, according to previous posts by Carbking, there are still issues. With the efficiency of the Pertronix, you need to be real sure the carb is working correctly. Since it is running fine now, you may be ok. Does it have a functioning choke? Does it overheat at all--sometimes an indication of lean condition.

  #26  
Old 11-08-2004, 06:25 PM
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Sixty7Goat Sixty7Goat is offline
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I once saw a 7027262 on Ebay for around $900, no wonder they put the AIR versions on as replacements. I have a 703 on a federal engine, and it's always been hard to start, idles like crap and runs around 220 degrees.

  #27  
Old 11-09-2004, 08:55 PM
TopdownloGTO TopdownloGTO is offline
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Just ordered the Pertronix today along with a new coil and plug wires. Yeah the choke seems to work okay and I have not had any overheating problems. I was having a hot start problem until I replaced the battery and battery cables.
I should probably get a temp gauge on it to see what temp it runs at. 220 is a bit high, isn't it?

  #28  
Old 11-10-2004, 12:31 PM
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Sixty7Goat Sixty7Goat is offline
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As far as mine is concerned, it could be a whole slew of things. The motor has never been rebuilt, although compression is good. I rebuilt the carb myself last year but didn't have new primary bushings put in, so it's possible it's leaking, although it didn't idle up when I sprayed carb cleaner around the bushings. Engine is out of car and I'm working on the body right now, so I'm not to serious about looking for a correct carb, but according to Carbking they won't ever run right with the AIR carb.

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