[jeffsgto]

Hi all, I have a 67 GTO that was converted to HEI before I purchased. I am having a battery drain problem that I have narrowed to the engine compartment. When I plug in the R/F terminal on the back of the alternator, it starts drawing power. I am using a test light between the negative terminal and the negative post on the battery to test for the power draw. I have replaced the voltage regulator and the alternator and still have the same effect. With the key in the off position I am getting power to the voltage regulator from the #3 terminal. The F terminal is then sending power to the alternator while the key is off. I have also replaced the starter selonoid. I have unplugged all the firewall junction boxes and isolated the electrical system to the starter, voltage regulator, and alternator. There is no power draw until I plug in the F terminal in the back of the alternator. Anyone have any ideas.

Thanks,
Jeff

[jeffsgto]

Hi all, I have a 67 GTO that was converted to HEI before I purchased. I am having a battery drain problem that I have narrowed to the engine compartment. When I plug in the R/F terminal on the back of the alternator, it starts drawing power. I am using a test light between the negative terminal and the negative post on the battery to test for the power draw. I have replaced the voltage regulator and the alternator and still have the same effect. With the key in the off position I am getting power to the voltage regulator from the #3 terminal. The F terminal is then sending power to the alternator while the key is off. I have also replaced the starter selonoid. I have unplugged all the firewall junction boxes and isolated the electrical system to the starter, voltage regulator, and alternator. There is no power draw until I plug in the F terminal in the back of the alternator. Anyone have any ideas.

Thanks,
Jeff

[jeffsgto]

After reading some other posts, the voltage regulator that I have does not have a #2 terminal. Could this be part of the problem?

[george kujanski]

Welcome, Jeff.

It's not a "short".

#3 will always be live as it is connected to the battery. You say the regulator does not have a #2 terminal? That's obviously wrong. #2 should be connected to the "R" terminal on the alternator only. The way it works is that once the alternator starts working, the "R" terminal develops voltage to term #2, turning the regulator "ON". Something in your system is turning the regulator "ON" with the key off.

Find out where the "R" wire is going from the alternator, connect it to term#2 where it belongs & you should be ok.

George

[jeffsgto]

George, Thanks for the info. the voltage reg. that I bought is from Auto Zone. I am looking at the service manual now and in the manual, it shows the "pontiac" regulator as missing the #2 post. The "tempest" which the manual says covers GTO's does include the #2 post. Apparently they are 2 different regulators and they must have sold me the wrong one. Also, the internal wiring looks different in the diagrams. Another quick question for you. Should the F terminal always be hot or not? Currently it is, but I think it is because of the wiring differences in the voltage regulators because the manual shows the tempest/gto version as have a set of contacts that close after the key is on to send the juice the F terminal.

Thanks,
Jeff

[george kujanski]

You've got the wrong regulator. When you say the regulator does not have a #2 terminal, does the harness have the wire in the #2 terminal location?

The big car regulators are different since they don't use an idiot light.

You say you replaced the reg and the problem still persists; what was the old one like?

Get the proper reg. It will most likely fix the problem, but then the question is what was the old reg like since you say you have the "same" problem?

The "F" terminal is normally dead with the key off.

George

[jeffsgto]

George, I think it had the wrong regulator even when I bought the car because it drained the battery when I first bought it. I didn't trace it then as I figured I would fix the problem while restoring it through new part purchases. I have bought two for the car since I started restoring it. Both at Auto Zone and both were missing the #2 terminal. Until I got the service manual, I thought the missing #2 was the way it was supposed to be. A word of caution for everyone out there. I think A.Z. is selling the wrong part number. I am going to go in this week and pitch a fit and ask for a refund. I am going to order one now from Ames Performance.

Thanks,
Jeff

[6t7gto]

same problem with advance auto parts. listed part number was missing number two terminal. took it back this morning and found correct one on shelf. part number was one digit different.
wrong one was $36.00
right one was $12.00
got extra beer money now!
david

[jeffsgto]

George was right on. Got the correct regulator last night from APE and problem solved. Thanks for the help George. I also returned the wrong one to Auto Zone and told them they are selling the wrong part number. They are going to investigate and correct the computer database.