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  #21  
Old 12-28-2004, 12:51 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by lapham3:
All good info. Another thought-I'm in the north country and like to use block heaters in my stuff. I plug in a couple hours before a cold start, and especially when the cars been sitting for weeks/months. The heater generally gets the engine to 100-125 degrees, and that's a big help before cranking up <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's all good for the modern cars and I use mine too in my 2004 Cavalier but my '79 Trans Am with the '76 455 does not have a block heater.

Anyway, I run 30W oil in my T/A all summer and leave it in all winter. I do change it right before it goes away, and change it when it comes out. It sits from late October/early November until mid April. That's my $0.02.

One more note....I did the same thing with my 400 for 7 or 8 years; still no rebuild on it and no noise.

  #22  
Old 12-28-2004, 02:51 PM
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I like your So-crates quote 79TA455. I know that I know nothing. HEY! Does that means Sgt. Shultz on Hogan's Hero's was paraphrasing Socrates?

I just read an artical in one of my magazines that gave some real good advise on chosing oil for a specific application and I can't find it. It was in one of the readers write in sections. If I find it I'll post it here. I can surprise myself with what I can remember 20yrs ago but yesterday's a bitch.

Uneasyrider

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  #23  
Old 12-28-2004, 04:11 PM
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screamingchief posted my favorate link for oil info , thanks. aways used 30W valvoline in my summer birds, 10w30 in my all weather cars & 5w30 mobil1 since it came out. the guys in our shop report GM 5w30 has higher oil pressure then 10w30 in thier cars. maybe because i double check everything or rarely pushed my cars beyond thier limit(90%street), in 30yrs i haven't had one bearing failure with factory bottom end parts 400/6500rpm & 455/5800rpm with both once or twice.

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  #24  
Old 12-28-2004, 04:24 PM
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This topic is interesting I enjoted reading your comments here's my .02 .over the past 30 years I have use all weight oils but mostly 20-50 when we bought our sea ray in 94 the owners and service manuels said to run straight 30 weight oil which made sense because the motor in a boat is working like driving a car up hill all day long always under load. I started using 30 wt in my truck van and motorhome and the old cars . 3 years ago we tore the GTO down measured everything put it all back to gether standard even the bore left the original lifters and cam in it or at least the ones that have been in it the almost 30 years I have owned it when it sits I do have som lifter nise but is instantly gone has no where the noise my new Lumina has. any way with the 30 wt oil I have great oil pressure cold it's off the wall and hot the normal Pontiac 190- 200 degrees highway speeds 60 strong at 7-800 rpms 39-40 lbs I have been very hesitant to put any additives in such as Lucas or simular products I run them in the other cars but just afraid to hurt this one because it is all original and stock

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  #25  
Old 12-28-2004, 04:32 PM
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I'm thinking with what you guys have said that old boy teaching my diesel mecahnics class back then was on the ball. I think I'll break in my engine with 30W and run 30W summer and for the little bit of driving I do in winter I'll run a 10W-30. The car will see some cold weather driving because we get very little snow here.

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  #26  
Old 12-28-2004, 05:10 PM
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oh by the way our boat has over 700 hrs on it still runs strong and uses no oil over the summer use time . 3 years ago My son went to college in Mt Vernon Ohio He worked for AZ here so he now he is working there. said that to say this He called me about some fantastic oil that some guy came and did a pitch on the guy claimed he had over 200000 miles on the oil and just changed the filter every 5k . well good for him no way my cars go over 3k a year but the oil gets changed any way . well the name of the oil is Shafers I guess Ohio is the only place you can buy it . It is supposed to be all natural . Well Tim tried to get me to use it . I said put it in the old lumina if you want it's got 200000 k on it and if it goes it goes . well he ran it that year he actually got better mileage and at 3 k the oil wasn't even dirty . that summer we ran it in the boats still 30 wt though we also put it in the van. I had to adjust the idel in the boats because the rpms went up with that oil . I guess this year I am going to put it in the GTO . It is hard to change an old dog but I don't have anything bad to say about Shafers oil so far

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  #27  
Old 12-30-2004, 04:06 AM
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Don Salisbury, I know that Shafers used to be (if I remember correctly) a bulk oil that the farmers used to buy around here. The first time I remember Shaffers beeing mentioned was when I was in diesel mechanics back in 1982. I remember always seeing it in the big gallon or larger contaners when I used to see it. Not that that means a thing one way or the other on quality etc. but it at least was sold in WA state at one time. I don't remember seeing it recently though, I'll have to keep an eye out. Good info.

Uneasyrider

P.S. Doesn't Shaffers make a beer also?

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  #28  
Old 12-30-2004, 06:52 AM
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Schaeffer's Moly Bond X-200 SAE 30 this is what we are using in the boats the newer cars is 10-30 I think but when we go to the older cars I'll use the 30 wt I guess it does have something in it it says With Solubale Moly claims on label Releases friction Reduces engine wear Increases power

back label blended from 100% pure paraffin base oils that stand a higher heat range up to 150* F more than conventional oils. they are blended with the addition of a soluble moly and friction modifier........
to re order call 1-800-325-9962
SCHAEFFER MFG. CO.
ST. LOUIS,MO 63104 www.scheafferoil.com

for what it's worth we are using it in 4 of our cars and both boats I guess it's time to try it in the old ones so far so good

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"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but
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which would include their own government." — George Washington

  #29  
Old 12-30-2004, 07:00 AM
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http://www.schaefferoil.com/racing2/...ent/index.html

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"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but
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which would include their own government." — George Washington

  #30  
Old 12-30-2004, 11:19 AM
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haa, i rememder seeing some of those containers in one of the top fueler's trailer at the fall nationals at route66 in joliet ill.

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  #31  
Old 12-30-2004, 11:55 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Geoff:
The reason the modern engines use thinner oil can be stated in one word: efficiency. Efficiency all the way down the line.
Tighter clearances require less oil; less oil requires lower operating oil pressure & less volume of oil; less oil pressure means less hp to drive the oil pump; less hp to drive the pump means more hp to the wheels & less fuel used doing it. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Geoff,
Tighter clearances??? With .002" on the rods and .002" on the Speed-Pro coated skirt pistons, how much tighter can you run an engine???

Even my Mercedes-Benz Turbo Diesel runs around .0017" to .002" clearance, even on the pistons.

If you look in a service manual for a modern engine, like the LT-1, it has only average clearances.

Interesting point...Robert

  #32  
Old 12-30-2004, 02:30 PM
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Scott....
You mentioned breaking in on 30wt....make sure it is NON-detergent. It won't "clean" off(hence NON-detergent) the break-in additives such as the MOLY on cam lobes, etc.

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  #33  
Old 12-30-2004, 04:50 PM
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they still make detergent oil

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  #34  
Old 12-31-2004, 04:29 AM
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Robert,
The tighter clearances I was referring to were the bearing/journal clearances for rods, mains, cam etc. Most engines lube the piston skirts by splash & a prayer.

  #35  
Old 01-06-2005, 08:37 AM
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The Pocket Ref. by Thomas Glover has a nice little chart for oil weight vs. temp. It is also a VERY good general reference guid for a LOT of other things.

Uneasyrider

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