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#1
10-08-2003, 12:57 PM
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Sorry for this question guys but I'm about to have my 6X heads rebuilt and I got to thinking... "What exactly does that mean?" I have new valves/springs/locks/retainers so what does the manchine shop have to do other than just clean the heads and assemble the parts? Is there anything I should ask to be done to help performance? I will be getting bronze valve guides but that is the only thing I've requested.
Thanks! |
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#2
10-08-2003, 12:57 PM
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Sorry for this question guys but I'm about to have my 6X heads rebuilt and I got to thinking... "What exactly does that mean?" I have new valves/springs/locks/retainers so what does the manchine shop have to do other than just clean the heads and assemble the parts? Is there anything I should ask to be done to help performance? I will be getting bronze valve guides but that is the only thing I've requested.
Thanks! |
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#3
10-08-2003, 01:41 PM
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In my very limited experience the shop will have to do the following at least if they are doing it "Right":
1 Cut the correct angles on the valves and seats (If needed) 2 Set the correct install height for the springs. 3 Check bolt holes and install helicoils if needed. 4 Possibly machine heads for positive type valve seals. 5 Possibly elongate the pushrod slots for 1.65 rockers if you want. That is all I could think of right off the hip. Joe |
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#4
10-09-2003, 07:35 AM
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Thanks for the info Joe.
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#5
10-09-2003, 08:15 AM
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No questions here are stupid. We all share information. Sometimes you have to have a valve seat or seats,replaced and you may want to have them re surfaced for a clean gasket seal.
__________________
You know it's going to be a good day when you wake up breathing! |
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#6
10-09-2003, 12:12 PM
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The grinding on the seats is very important as it corrects and trues the contact patch between the valve and the seat. A correct job will have a seat contact patch about the width of a dime on the intake and a little bit wider on the exhaust. Also the intake contacts the face of the valve towards the outer edge with the exhausts square in the middle. You check this by taking the heads and valves clean and spray a graphite spary on the valve and slam it against the seat, the contact will remove the graphite revealing the seat contact patch on the valve. Now compare the freshly done heads to a set of heads that has alot of time on them and you will see a major difference. Also, with the valves (mark the valves and dont mix them up) and springs installed in both sets of heads, pour solvent in the ports and look for leakage at the valves and seats. Worn heads will leak considerably and this is part of the reason behind poor leakdown test results. Disclaimer: I hope I remembered all of this correctly as I did this work directly out of highschool until I decided it would never pay very well and moved on, that was back in the 80's and my memory treats me like a red-headed step child sometimes. Anyone have more recent information?
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#7
10-09-2003, 08:34 PM
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Make sure they resurface the heads, or at least check the straightness on the deck surface. If it's too far off your head gaskets won't seal
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http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/[email protected] |
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