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#21
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Jon, you have seen my car, black 69' like you. You probably do not recall the headers.
They are 1 7/8" x 36" x 3 1/2" true-equal length Headers by Ed pieces. Fit like a charm w/o even removing starter or shifting/raising motor. He does great work. I know you mentioned the altered steering thing but just thought this may help....worst case. Good luck on your fabrication.
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79 Trans Am WS6 71 Formula 72 Formula 71 Firebird 69 Firebird |
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#22
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Here's one tip I found very helpful when I made the dual exhaust system for my '41 F**d: Try to make all the tubing cuts with a tubing cutter rather than a hacksaw. If you do, the pieces will fit together perfectly and the welding and fitting will be MUCH easier. I had very little MIG experience, but built a decent set of pipes from the cast iron headers past the clutch, etc. all the way out the back of the car without much difficulty at all. Headers are probably much more difficult, but by using a tubing cutter you will insure that all the cuts are at an exact right angle to the pipe and it will all fit much better.
Good Luck.
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****'63 Tempest, 475" IAII, Wenzler Super Chief heads, converted to blown alcohol, Birdcatcher, Littlefield 10-71 high helix. Best pass to date: 7.67 @ 181.59 (1/4 mi.), 4.95 @ 143.67 (1/8 mi.), 1.18 (60 ft) 7.75 @ 178 pass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iez3...ature=youtu.be First seven second pass(7.98): https://wwwoutube.com/watch?v=DK17...ature=youtu.be Thanks to Paul Carter @ Koerner Racing Engines |
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#23
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Hojs69, I'm gonna try the fab work myself first, and if it doesn't work out then I'll go back to looking for someone to sell/fix/fabricate me some headers.
twooldgoats, that's an excellent suggestion, and I've got a chain-style exhaust cutter already. I've butt-welded exhaust pipe before, and the fit of the joint definately makes a huge difference. |
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#24
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some people NEVER have time to do it right but ALWAYS have time to do it over!
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#25
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Jon,
Mark Weiss is in the Huntington Beach area! Bob McGuy is in the Torrance area, and Dawson is in BFE!!LOL Mark can do it fast!! Be Cool, Ace http://pacificperformanceracing.com ACE-P.P.R.
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Am I glad I got out of the business I was in? HELL YEAH!!! |
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#26
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Tom, I have never heard that saying but no truer words have ever been spoken.
Ron
__________________
![]() Due to the current economic conditions...the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off. Meet you at the finish line.....don't be late! |
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#27
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What did the folks @ IA have to say??
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GOOD IDEAS ARE OFTEN FOUND ABANDONED IN THE DUST OF PROCRASTINATION |
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#28
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Ron,it comes from our military!
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#29
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by KEN CROCIE:
What did the folks @ IA have to say??<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I haven't talked to them, because I don't really think it's their problem, and I really don't want this to turn into a post bashing IA. From the looks of things, I'd only have very minor interference (if even) if the tie rods were in the stock location (the bottom hole in the centerlink in my pictures). In one of the pictures you can actually see where I had to dimple my Canton oil pan to make clearance for the raised center link. The starter interference is due to the fact that the Summit mini-starter is very obviously designed to be mounted on the right hand side of the motor (ala Chevy). The motor is "kicked-out" (actually it would be "kicked-IN" on a Chevy) and that's where the interference is. Due to the spacing on the bolt holes in the flange I can't clock the starter at all because it goes TOO far and hits the block. So in other words, I think installing these headers on a "stock" car would still require some bashing & swearing, but I've installed enough headers that I expect that sort of nonsense. |
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#30
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ken Brewer:
Mark Weiss is in the Huntington Beach area! Bob McGuy is in the Torrance area, and Dawson is in BFE!!LOL Mark can do it fast!! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Ace, can you post contact information for these guys? |
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#31
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Dawson is somewhere out by Hemet or Perris. I don't have a phone number.
You might have created a problem for yourself when you changed your centerlink and tie rod. Because of the angle you may have created a bump steer situation. Any reason in particular you did this? Ron
__________________
![]() Due to the current economic conditions...the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off. Meet you at the finish line.....don't be late! |
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#32
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It's actually a Global West centerlink, and it corrects the bumpsteer. The car has the entire Global West CAT5 front suspension on it.
But, there's no doubt that it's created LOTS of problems for me. |
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#33
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Jon
I would think you could find a local guy who does headers for Nascar guys. Two friends of mine have had custom sets made by a guy in Charlotte and they look great, fit great, and dont leak. I might suggest bringing a set of flanges with you since most shops dont want to go to the trouble to find them, but they should be able to get you taken care of, and it might actually be in the slower part of the season for them. I know all the engine shops around here that deal with the roundy round guys are really busy right before the season starts and slack off around the middle, maybe the header guys do too. Good Luck Man Joe |
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#34
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Tubing cutter won't work as often the cuts need to be other than that. The hack saw does make uneven cuts and it harder on the welder dude. A band saw would be the best.
__________________
Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune [email protected] 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs 1964 Corvette Coupe 327 4 speed |
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#35
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Jon, how do you like that GW front end kit? Can I ask how much it set you back?
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#36
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I love it. The car handles amazingly well.
I bought their full front suspension w/12.2" Rotors/Wilwood 4 piston calipers, their SFCs, their body mounts, and their rear springs/shackles (w/DelAlum bushings). I dropped about $5300 on the entire package. I'm pretty sure their prices have gone down since, and they also offer tubular lowers and a front coilover setup now. |
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#37
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Have you measured lateral g's on your cat5 setup? If so how did it do?
-John |
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#38
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Never had a chance to, but I did ok in the single AutoX run I got before getting disqualified for being too loud.
I'm planning on hitting some of the AutoX events and maybe doing some open track days with the car once it's all back together. IIRC one of the CA road courses has a skidpad so some day I may be able to test it. |
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#39
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HEY HOJS69,
i HAVE A COUPLE OF QUESTIONS FOR YOU, WERE DID YOU SAY THE HEADDERS YOU HAVE ON YOUR BIRD WERE FROM? AND ALSO I NEED TO KNOW WERE YOU GOT YOUR HOOD FROM? I CHECKED ALL THE FIBERTEKS IN FLORIDA AND THEY DO NOT HAVE ANY INFO. THE PHONE# DOES NOT WORK EITHER. IF YOU WOULD PLEASE RESPOND ALL THE INFO FOR ME I WOULD BE GRATEFUL. |
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#40
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Andrew69. If you want some great headers that will clear everything, look good, improve your performance, bolt on and not leak use Doug's Headers.
There are pictures of this system on this BB. Go to the exhaust section and look at the posts by Biginjun. Ron
__________________
![]() Due to the current economic conditions...the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off. Meet you at the finish line.....don't be late! |
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