[Kenth sweden]

I would like some comments about the differance between EZ wiring and painless wiring. The price is the biggest differance that i know. I wold like to know if it is any differance in the quality between the harnesses? (sorry about my english) :-) I´ve got a lemans conv. 1968 with standard eq. i know that a 21 circuit harness would be to much. I have installed an electric fan. some spare circuits is not wrong, or?

Nisse
sweden

[Kenth sweden]

I would like some comments about the differance between EZ wiring and painless wiring. The price is the biggest differance that i know. I wold like to know if it is any differance in the quality between the harnesses? (sorry about my english) :-) I´ve got a lemans conv. 1968 with standard eq. i know that a 21 circuit harness would be to much. I have installed an electric fan. some spare circuits is not wrong, or?

Nisse
sweden

[76TA428]

I just finished installing the EZ 21 harness. I would highly suggest this over the painless. The wiring is basically the same, both have what wire it is printed every 5 inches or so. The EZ kit is already gm wired for steering column connections. When I first got it I was intimidated since I've never done that much wiring on a single project, but as I got going it was pretty easy. Only took about a total of 12 hours to install over 3 days. I only had to extend the fuel pump wire because I wanted to run it to a switch, other than that all were plenty long enough. And at a shipped to your door price of 181.00 compared to Painless which is well over 300 and has less circuits, you can't beat it.

[Dryseals]

I've always built my own, takes a lot of time and effort and I never wanted to pay for the painless, too painfull to fork out that kind of money.
I'm going to try the EZ, been surfing here and it seems worth while. Lots of folks sell them, price is right and I'm not going for original.

http://www.noma.com/products_auto_sxl.shtml
For the type of wire they use GXL

[NOZZLENUT05]

in our shop we sell and install EZ wire systems. They are super easy to install. Like somebody said earlier, they are marked every few inches for easy ID, and are nearly idiot proof. If you are going that way, I would recommend the all black kit(purely for looks...easier to hide.) Word of caution...extra attention to detail is needed with the black kit.
Something we do to ease the install is lay the kit out on the floor and find out which wires you won't use, which wires are for the back, inside, front. We then tape each group together every 12 inches, this way it is a little easier to keep track of. To me the most intimidating part is figuring out where to put the fuse box. The rest is a piece of cake. You can do it...wouldn't even worry. But once again, the EZ is the better choice(IMHO)

[old gto]

I used an "E-Z" wire kit for my 1931 Chevy. The guys at Doc`s Rod Shop made a very good point. With a correct color-coded wiring kit, black, blue, and brown all look the same when you`re broke down on the side of the road at night, with a Bic lighter to see with. Not to mention that your wiring diagram is back home in the shop.
The E-Z harness has every wire labled every few inches, so no matter where you access it, it will say what it is, like "left rear tail" etc. etc. It came with fuse block & fuses, all wires, terminals & instructions.
I wouldn`t use anything else.

[dracowizard]

NOZZLENUT05 ...read that you have used and sell EZ wiring systems.I plan to convert a 65 (GTO Clone)auto on the column car to a 4 sp car.My biggest concern is increasing lighting output in both headlights and tailights.You have any EZ kit suggestions and/or prices.Do you guys sell via the internet or would it be best to shop the net directly.Wiring is not a strong suit for me...but with a lil guidance and some luck i hope to get thru this!

[cujo]

I am guessing that the EZ Wiring kits do not include the light sockets like for the rear tail lights for example. How easy is it to rewire your existing sockets? and what do you do for sockets which have corroded terminal strips.

[dracowizard]

cujo...here thought i'd share this with you,may help you decide.I know they convinced me with this response,Good Luck man(MY EMAIL TO EZ----> Having read testimonials about your wiring systems i had to find your web page and look for myself.Maybe you can help guide me into a decision.I want to rewire a 65 tempest that i'm cloning into a GTO and the car is currently a auto column shift car that will become a 4 sp with a console.Your kits look good,especially the updated EZ Mini20.Allowing to usemodern fuses.I would like to increase the light output for all exterior lighting.So..my question is...can you give me a lil direction of what kit would do me the best.The car has minimum accessories..NO AIR -NO POWER WINDOWS and most standard insturments.Most which are warning lights(oil-temp-amp) ,but there is a lighter..and i plan to add new gauges ( prob more mechanical xcept for AMP).Will the Mini 20 work for these applications..and interior lighting as well? What other wiring is needed for firewall forward and tail lamp also?i hope you can help...your kits look very affordable and as a novice i'm extremely concerned about trying to do this...but with good instructions and a lil help i feel confident. THEY ANSWERED---> The mini 20 would work fine in that application but if you are running no power windows ,door locks etc...Then the 12 would probably work fine as well.As for wires to the front, All charging ,starting ,etc are included.
----- Original Message -----
From: DeWayne Hall
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 2:23 AM
Subject: which to choose

[decco37]

I'd like to add my 2 cents worth. I've built 2 street rods, and used the EZ wire system on both cars. It's really easy to use. I'd never wired a car before, and did the complete job myself both times, each time taking 2 or 3 evenings to complete. Don't let the size of the job overwhelm you, just concentrate on one wire at a time, and the job will be done in no time. After doing it myself, wiring is one of the most fun part of building a car. Good Luck. Decco.

[thefirebirdm@n]

Whats the url for EZ's website?

[Kenth sweden]

i´m confused about if i need the 21 or 12 circuit harness. I´ve got a lemans convertible 1968, no electric windows, antenna or fuel pump. My top is electric. and my alternator internal regulator and std. distributor.
What do i need, 21 or 12?

Nisse Sweden

[Formula8]

Here is a link: http://www.ezwiring.com/

I bought the EZ21 kit and like it. There is a lot of splicing involved with the tail lights etc but that would be the same for either harness. The EZ instructions could be better but I got through it fine. Slickest part was the fuse box bolting in place of the stocker. That being said, it would have been nice to have a bulkhead plug like much more expensive Painless "muscle car" harness.

I went with the 21 circut kit so I would have capacity to add things like PW and PDL that I am currently not using.

My installation took quite some time as I added relays for the headlamps, relays for dual cooling fans, remote voltage sensing and went all Autometer for guages. If you just want brighter headlights, here is a link to check out:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml

[Dryseals]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by lemans.68 conv.:
i´m confused about if i need the 21 or 12 circuit harness. I´ve got a lemans convertible 1968, no electric windows, antenna or fuel pump. My top is electric. and my alternator internal regulator and std. distributor.
What do i need, 21 or 12?

Nisse Sweden <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You can't go wrong with the 21, you may just have a lot of extras. If your top is electric, then you will need to find out how this motor is fed. Chances are that it is not fed directly from the switch, but the switch feeds a relay. The feed to the motor is what you'll need. Normally power window fuses are the breaker type for higher current, which if I remeber correctly, there are a few in the EZ set-up. The power window setup in the EZ may be capable of handling the power top. Then again there may already be a separate fuse and feed for this.

[Kenth sweden]

thanks everybody

i´m going for the 21 circuit harness if i´m in the future going to install power windows etc.

Nisse

[NOZZLENUT05]

Dracowizard,
Sorry for the delay, I've been busier than a one legged man...As far as pricing goes, pretty much everybody has the same price. At least within a few dollars of each other(from what I have seen). We use and sell the EZ wire kits, because they are just that EZ! You will have to do a TON of stripping and crimping terminal ends on. The kit comes with no sockets, connectors, or terminal ends attached. So my advice is get a good set of crimping/stripping pliers and take your time. You will have to splice your old sockets for your lights into the system. You will also have to drill a hole somewhere to pass all the wires through to the outside of the vehicle. This is the part that I said earlier to separate the sections, it makes it easier to pass it through the grommet. What I do is seperate them into front, rear, interior groups. Then I seperate them again into smaller groups like front left & right, rear left and right, engine, dash, left door, right door, etc. It is super easy. I am probably confusing the heck out of you by describing all of this. Don't let it intimidate you. You can do it. I agree with EZwire, the 12 should do ya fine, especially if you have no intentions of ever running pw, and pdl. We install a lot of these kits, and most of our customers install the 21 circuit, just in case down the road they want to update something. We just tape off and roll up all the wires not in use. But all the wires are there, you just have to hook em up. Make sure you have good clean grounds on everything, good splices, etc etc.
The mini fuse kits have really tiny fuse boxes. So if you have fumble fingers, be fore warned. They are nice tho, because they can be stuck out of sight easier. Good luck, and once again..you can do it.
Personally, I like the all black wire kits, It makes it easier to blend the wires into the car. It takes a little more concentration to make sure everything is hooked up right, I think it looks better. That is what I am going to install in my next project. The colored wires are just out there nice and bright, when I look at a car they are just like WHAM!!! there they are. So, that is my .02...If I can help ya out let me know. I'm not an expert, but I've done a few.

[dracowizard]

NOZZLENUTO5...Thanks with your info/advice.I too think i'll be using the 21.Looking at such minor cost diff vs staying prepared for the unexpected is important to me.Do you ever know of anyone who has done any pics of an installation thats been done?...like maybe someone's personal project.I'm totally convinced beyond a doubt this is the way to go...plus by also by using a few products from MAD should help me create a updated system to carry all lighting and other needs.Again my thanks to you for being so helpful.

[Greg Reid]

Here's a guy's personal website that I just happened across a few weeks ago. Photodocuments his installation in an old '50s p/u truck.
http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/ezwire_day1.php

[dracowizard]

Greg...thanks,it's nice to have a chance to view quality work done by others so i may feel a lil more secure about my own attemps!

[SGTGTO]

I got the Painless Wiring kit for my 68 GTO. They didnt make a specific kit for it, so i went with the 18 circuit GM kit for non-column vehicles. Every wire is labeled the length of it as to where it goes. It comes with a connector kit and well written instructions. I know customer service is unbeatable with them. Lance that works there will jump infront of a car to help you. Im yet to install it, but ill be posting progess when i start in a few weeks. They also have a nifty remote disconnect kit (read anti-theft) that is what solidified my decision to go with them.