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#1
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I am striping my 1/4s to sheet metal in order to remove surface oxidation and old finish. My question is that as I remove the rust its most outer layer would be reddish brown color (natural rust) and as I remove more the color changes to black. This black stuff still is rust, correct?
How do I remove ALL the rust to ensure that some years down the line it wont start to rot the sheet metal below the finish? Could I shoot a coat of thinned POR-15 then an epoxy-primer over that or will epoxy-primer alone suffice? What is the best approach? |
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#2
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I am striping my 1/4s to sheet metal in order to remove surface oxidation and old finish. My question is that as I remove the rust its most outer layer would be reddish brown color (natural rust) and as I remove more the color changes to black. This black stuff still is rust, correct?
How do I remove ALL the rust to ensure that some years down the line it wont start to rot the sheet metal below the finish? Could I shoot a coat of thinned POR-15 then an epoxy-primer over that or will epoxy-primer alone suffice? What is the best approach? |
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#3
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that's a tough one...I am not an expert but it is very difficult to totaly stop the corrosion process or totaly remove the deposites...I had a couple spots next to the trunk seal where there must have been a speck of rust that I did not get removed and the paint bubbled in 3 weeks time...I did the wire wheel job again and with a magnifying glass, I can see slight corrsion lines...my expert body man friend tells me we need to remove some metal to see how far it goes or cut it out to be sure....30 year old sheet metal is hard to prevent corrosion
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can you hear me now? is this thing on? test 1 2 1 2 |
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#4
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I have had good luck with Eastwood's Oxysolve rust remover. Goes on like water, let it dry, then wash of using soap. One or 2 apps are good just clean it off well and put on a rest preventive primer.
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Steve Karew |
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#5
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Thanks Lee and Steve. Will let this question hang out there for a few days, but I think Steve is on the right track.
I will user POR-15 "Metal Ready" instead and then shoot with thinned POR-15. The manufacturer stated in a FAQ that filler can be appiled over POR-15, good to know since filler will naturally be used. The same company also provides a "Tie-Coat" primer to use between POR-15 and the remaining body work layering of epoxy-primer, urethane primer and top-coat primer before the final finish. Am waiting to hear back from them on that though, just to make sure. |
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#6
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Bad news from the RestoMotive Industries, Inc. (manufacturers of POR-15 products)...
POR-15 should NOT be used on the exterior (i.e. visible body panels) of a restoration project. Ideally it is suited for frames, under body and wheelwell protection, areas were a hard surface that resists chipping from road debris is necessary. Looks like I will have to cut out the RH 1/4 and replace with a reproduction. I probable should anyway being that under all the filler I found numerous dent-puller holes, dings and dents. |
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