[frkzane]

I am installing long tube headers on a 1967 GTO Ram Air 400. On the driver side, what do I have to remove ? Do I have to remove the steering shaft? if so please advise how to remove. also are there any good shop mannauls you would recommend and were can I order one from ?

Thanks for your help

[frkzane]

I am installing long tube headers on a 1967 GTO Ram Air 400. On the driver side, what do I have to remove ? Do I have to remove the steering shaft? if so please advise how to remove. also are there any good shop mannauls you would recommend and were can I order one from ?

Thanks for your help

[jimmy1967gto]

There is no easy way to put headers on a 67. I put some on my 67 in high school (28 years ago),and my dad helped. We got em on but what a bitch! You have to tilt the engine. Only way. Good luck my friend, you will need it !

[carcrazy]

I'll also be interested to hear from anyone who has installed Hooker comps on a 67 Gto as this is what I have waiting. I remember the installation on the last 67 I had (also 28 years ago)and wouldn't wish that job on my worst enemy. Did have to lift and tilt the engine and "massage" the header to clear the steering shaft. Had to put the header and starter in at the same time using both hands and feet. Also had to loosen up the passenger side and tilt engine to remove oil filter. Don't remember the brand of header I used but I sure am hoping that they weren't hookers!

[Gordo]

Just a suggestion. When I put mine on, (sorry, I had the motor out) I put the two bolts between the 5 & 7 cylinders before the others. I also cut the plate out between each tube. I'm not good at standing on my head under the car to put the front #7 bolt in. I've got to practice this 5 times in two years, but that's another story.
Good Luck.

A V8, 4 spd, and a posi...What more could you ask for?

[Rockhead400]

Well if you pull the engine, remove the front cap , Z bar, brake booster, it should be a snap! Well seriously, I had the engine out and it was damn near impossible to get those Hooker long tubes in. You will definitely have to remove a motor mount maybe both at some point. I would remove the starter and the Z bar since they are so easy. I cant see why you would need to remove the steering column. Surprisingly, some of the tighter bolts can be reached from underneath. You should apply predents in the tubes around the bolts and insert the bolts before you start the install. It is worth the effort for the look and sound. Make sure you coat them with Jet Hot or something first as you wont want to do this again ever.

Pontiac's that haul ass with Pontiac engines!

[Injun]

I put hooker comps on my 67 about 5 years ago. The only problem was that freaking bolt behind cyls 6 and 5. You'll need a open wrench with a bend in the middle. I took a torch and heated mine and bent it to produce a 45 deg bend. i think some stores sell wrenches with the bend like this. I didnt have to tilt the engine or anything like that. Just removed the starter,and tranny lines (auto). Once you get them up in next to the engine, I would start the bolt that has a slot in the header flange. Then slide the header flange onto the bolt. The bolts are a pain. You'll just have to stay with it. skinned knuckles and all. I would put anything up that you might throw when upset. You will. Keep the children away, cause you will cuss. One other note. If you have an auto tranny, you will be way better off by fabbing new tranny lines out of brake line from the parts store. bend them out of the way of the header and leave room for the oil filter. To do this, route them up towards the firewall then to the fender well. You can get creative with a tube bender and form them towards the radiator. I routed mine parallel and used insulated clips to hold them in place. This makes changing the oil filter a breeze and if you ever need to change the headers (pray you dont) you wont have to remove the tranny lines.

1967 GTO HT, Tyrol Blue, 4sp.
2002 WS6 Trans AM, Black, 6sp
Just sold my other 67 GTO

[frkzane]

Mark Thanks for the advice !!!! We know what you mean about walking away a few times. The only problem that we ran into that we haven't finished is that we have to relocate the oil filter. The relocation kit is on order from summit. Also, we needed to grind some metal off the driver side control arm. We got them jethot coated before we installed. Thanks for sending the picture of your car it's awesome.

Regards,

Frank

[RPM]

Comps aren't so bad, now the Super Comps, they can be a royal bitch and I have done both! If 4-speed z-bar needs to be removed. Remove starter and the oil filter bracket. On my car both sides slipped right in after that was done. No oil filter relocation is necessary and with mine I can even run the NAPA 1049 (long filter). One modification worth mentioning is relocating the brake distribution block to keep the block and brake lines away from header heat.

67 GTO, 428, Q-Jet, TH400, 3.42, 12.50/107.5, wisper quiet
67 GTO, 400, Q-Jet, M20, 3.23, 14.02/98.7, loud & obnoxious

[RPM]

Another thing worth mentioning: unless you have some fairly good mods done like cylinder head porting, bigger cam, etc. just intstall the HO exhaust manifolds, much easier and same performance!

67 GTO, 428, Q-Jet, TH400, 3.42, 12.50/107.5, wisper quiet
67 GTO, 400, Q-Jet, M20, 3.23, 14.02/98.7, loud & obnoxious

[frkzane]

One other tip, you may not need a oil filter relocation kit. you can try a narrower but longer oil filter made for a cadillac. it is a Fram PH3429 or equivalent. same threads as the GTO filter.

[mikes67lemans]

i just put a set on my lemans about 6 months ago and i thought the drivers side was pretty easy compaired to the pass side all i did was undo the mount remove starter lift engine a little and put it in. the pass side was harder because of the tranny lines and trying to install the oil filter housing after the header was in. all this was done on the ground also. and i did not have to grind anything to fit the hookers fit without all that.