[78 GHOST]

ATF will not replace lead. ATF will make things much worse, if anything at all.

[LeighP]

mscicluna007
I don't know if you have access to old copies of Streetmachine magazine, but there was an article in the back of one issue a few months ago on a guy in Melbourne who has a kit that relocates the thermostat into a block in the lower inlet hose. There is a restrictor placed in the outlet (top) hose and a bypass hose that connects the top hose block to the bottom hose.
The overall effect is that water temp changes throughout the block are minimised and the whole engine temp is better controlled. He's had very good results on some very hi-po engines...making them quite streetable.
I'll try and find the contact details for you.

[riv80]

Hi Joe,

You didn't say whether your vacuum adv is ported or manifold. If you are running it ported, checkout the thread on using manifold vacuum for advance. Works for me.

jim

[mscicluna007]

i have just ordered a clutchless 19 inch seven fan a week ago from the states.
that is another possibilty that i am going to try.
Was using a 17 inch six blade fan which might not be capable of cooling it enough.

[LeighP]

OK...heres the contact details for that cooling system enhancement I was talking about.
Call John Bennett at Ecotherm - 03 9338 5311.
It'd be worth talking about your problem to him.

[JoePapa]

Wow, this threads still alive!

There is no vacuum advance - just mechanical - it's a Mallary mechanical.

The car's been okay now that it's still cool outside. The car has an 825 Demon carb and an aluminum radiator with 2 1" rows. Both helped but neither fixed it.

[riv80]

Joe,

A mechanical advance isnt the best for the street. Check out the cooling thread about the advantages of vacuum advance and about hooking up the vacuum to manifold vacuum,

[JoePapa]

Thanks for the tip.

[mscicluna007]

O.K
We still had trouble with over heating at idle and i think we've finally overcome the problem.
First of all the car wasn't getting enough vaccuum advance so a crane adjustable advance unit was used. it has alot more adjustment than the standard unit allowing the car to run at about 34' at idle.
But their was still overheating and now the timing side of things was sorted we had to look at pumps and fans.
A flex A Lite 7 Blade 19.3" fan was installed along with a flowkooler water pump from Summit Racing.
Seems to have done the trick Very stable temps at about 160'
Hopefully were on top of the situation but we;ve just missed summer so we have a lot of winter testing to look forward to.
Thank you all for your help
Michael

[Heybuck]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Leigh:
OK...heres the contact details for that cooling system enhancement I was talking about.
Call John Bennett at Ecotherm - 03 9338 5311.
It'd be worth talking about your problem to him. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

G'day Leigh,
I ran one of John Bennetts systems for years on a WB series 11 Caprice. I ran that car for over 12 years WITHOUT any cooling fan at all. Just electric fans for the A/C. That car NEVER boiled or ran cold. When I decided to let the old girl go (450k on the speedo was too much for a daily driver), I put the car back to stock. Ran like a pig!!

I keep meaning to take a Pontiac Water Pump over to John to get his opinions on it. I'll bet he has a bit to say. That guy has been studying cooling systems for 40 years. Nice old bloke.

Here's picture of the old bypass which I pulled out of my WB.

[GTOJOE228]

This question about manifold vacuum being used for the advance poses one question for me. On a stock show car where things need to look completely original how do you tap into manifold vacuum????? I have had this battle with high temps since a complete frame off. Did all the other things first including flow kooler pump and tweaked the plates. Even put the factory looking Griffin rad in. Need to put this behind me....I'm staring at that temperature guage like it's a naked girl.....Need some pics of this manifold vacuum set up. preferably stock. Joe

[george kujanski]

Pretty sure stock WAS manifold vac.

George

[GTOJOE228]

George , This is on my Ram Air car and I have a factory formed vacuum line that runs from the front of the carb to the rear and has a small brace that attaches to the rear mounting bolt. Off this is the connection to the distributor. Could I successfully tap into the vacuum port on the rear plate of the carb that connects to the brake booster. Would this be manifold vacuum????

[buwalda]

Yes,
You can tap into the brake booster line to pick up manifold vacuum. I have this set up on my 66 GTO. I believe 67 was the last year that manifold vacuum was used for the dist vac adv unit. The switch to ported vac adv was for better emissions.

[GTOJOE228]

Geoff, Maybe you missed something I wrote. My advance connects to a fitting in the front of the carb. There is a formed metal tubing that runs along the drivers side of the carb. This is not manifold vacuum. Connecting to the rear of the carb plate where the power brake connection goes is the connection I need. This will help with my temps? I'll give it a shot. Joe

[george kujanski]

The brake booster supply certainly is manifold vac. Are you sure the exixting fitting is not manifold vac?

To test, pull the line off when idling; if manifold vac, you will feel suction on the carb side. If ported you will probably feel no suction. If you gradually increase the throttle, you will start to feel suction on a ported vac line.

George

[GTOJOE228]

Thanks George!

[GTOJOE228]

George, Hooked up the setup and motor ran 180 degrees. My real test will be tomorrow when I take a trip to Pontiac Day about 35 miles away. Did notice that the choke did not let off when I tapped the gas pedal as it normaly does. Will the diferent source of vacuum change the choke settings? I did block off the tube coming off the carb.

[george kujanski]

Which choke setup do you have? The mechanical one that has a thermostatic spring in the intake manifold well, connected by a rod to the choke, or the heated one with the round choke housing connected by a tube to the manifold well? In the latter case, a vaccuum source inside the carb sucks air thru the well, where it is heated, then goes into the choke housing to heat the bimetallic spring.

Sometimes with this type, the choke housing is slightly loose from the carb body causing a air leak and not drawing enuf heated air thru the choke housing to heat it up & release the choke.

George

[GTOJOE228]

I have a mechanical choke stove. It worked perfect up until I switched vacuum sources. I'll report back tomorrow.Joe