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#1
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My floor pans are also rusted beyond repair. I'm looking at replacing them. I have a 69 FB convertible, which makes the process even more difficult from what I have studied. My question is, Are these panels butt welded into place? or lapped an inch or so, then welded along the interior seam? I've seen where quarter skins are layed over the panel, cut through both layers and then butt welded along the seam alternating around the panel to prevent warpage. Is this the same for Floor Pans??? Any suggestions would be highly appreciated... I'm still trying to find the confidence before begining the work... Thanks, George.
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#2
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My floor pans are also rusted beyond repair. I'm looking at replacing them. I have a 69 FB convertible, which makes the process even more difficult from what I have studied. My question is, Are these panels butt welded into place? or lapped an inch or so, then welded along the interior seam? I've seen where quarter skins are layed over the panel, cut through both layers and then butt welded along the seam alternating around the panel to prevent warpage. Is this the same for Floor Pans??? Any suggestions would be highly appreciated... I'm still trying to find the confidence before begining the work... Thanks, George.
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#3
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Originally the floorpan was one large section lapped over & spot welded in the rocker area. The repro's are avail in full length side sections with toe pans or in abreviated fronts & rears. Smart to buy the full length side sections, even if you don't need the rear section. PY sell's em, believe they are "American Design" pieces.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
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#4
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okay..good information... Thanks...now, what about the connection process? are these panels merely lapped an inch or so when installing? Cut out the old with an inch to spare then lay in the new and weld the mig weld the interior side/spot weld to the understructure as original?
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#5
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George, the floor panels are not as easy as the may seem. Have done a number of them. To start with you will have to cut out the old seat mounts. Note their location as you will have to re-install them. They are spot welded in so you will have to either use a spot weld cutter or a chissel to remove them. You must be careful not to bend them up as you remove them as you will have to re-install them later on to the new panels. After they are removed, lay the new panel over the old section of floor, use a marker and draw a line around the old floor where it matches up with the top of the new panel. Remove new panel and TRANSFER the line you just traced out 2 1/2" -3" DOWN from that line. THIS is the line You will CUT as the new panel will install lower than the first line you made once the old floor is removed. Once New floor is set in to car, check the amount of extra material, if O.K. Remove new panel and grind floor to clean metal, if there is still too much overhang on original floor trim till panels look good.Drill holes or use a pneumatic punch tool if you have one around top edge of new panel, with holes approx 3/4 inch down from top edge of new panel and about 2" or 3' apart from each other. Then Spray weld through primer on both surfaces. Lay in panel and mig weld through holes in new panel to old metal .BE CAREFUL, most cars have UNDERCOATING on bottom and welding could start a fire! Once the panels are installed, grind down welds, install your seat pans back to proper locations. Do not skimp on these welds. Then go under car and apply seam sealer around edge of old floor and new floor sheet metal. Take your time and the job will be fine. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_cool.gif[/img] If you think this is too big of a job for you have it done. It is easier to have them installed right the first time, then it is to correct a mistake. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]
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#6
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Thanks for the information and for being so thorough...There is no undercoating and I have purchased new seat mount pans, since the originals are wasted also... this car sat in a guys back yard for about 18 years.. top deteriorated, and left the carpet in.. making the floor pans/seat pans deteriorate. It was piled high inside with junk that his ex wife threw in it and left that way... all original and complete... just needs the pans and a new interior..paint ect ect ect..i have painted about 5 cars, so I do have some exp. in that department...Thanks for you help...George
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#7
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Geodude -
I am in the midst of this very same thing with my '69 GTO floor - from the firewall all the way to the rear seat backrest. I purchased full-length floor pans, both LH and RH sides and a new rear seat area. Something I saw today as new product for PY is a full complete pan. I do not recall your vehicle type, but this product may be easier than two halves. Wish it was avialable prior to my purchase. Perhaps something to consider if available for your vehicle and you have not made the purchase of two halves yet. 1969 Restoration |
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#8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> I have purchased new seat mount pans <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I didn't know these were available. Does PY sell them? http://www.68firebird.net |
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#9
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My car is a 69 Firebird Conv., you mentioned a full seat pan that includes both sides..?? havnt seen them.. Im not sure if I want to cut that much sheet metal out at one time, due to risking the fit and alignment problems. The rust throught wasnt too bad on my car, and the tunnel area and rockers appear to be in good shape... Thanks for the reply..George
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#10
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Been going through this same ordeal, thought I'd revive this topic. Here's a page detailing my '67 Lemans floor pan replacement:
Floor Pan Replacement I just made it up as I went along, searched the web for other pages and took hints from them. [insert witty signature here]
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[insert witty signature here] |
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#11
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P455 -
Great pics! Good job on the floors. The best part is, you were honest with yourself ("this isn't a show car"), and didn't drive yourself crazy with the job. You've encouraged me to cut out my perfectly rust-free floors and weld in some new ones! NOT!!! :^) TIGER EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection for the Traditional Pontiac Engine. [email protected]
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Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same. -RONALD REAGAN 462 cid/ 6x-4/ TH400/ 3.36:1/ 28x10.5/ 3880#/ 12.35 @ 109.36/ 1.69 60 ft/ 4 wheel disc brakes/ 15 mpg |
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#12
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Nice job P455. I hope you leave this site up for awhile, nice job! As for a show car, I don't know anyone alive that has pulled someones carpet up at a car show to look at the welding job. That is a nice job worthy of any show car.
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Norm J |
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#13
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VERY NICE JOB... I'm going to fit and weld the rear pan section in my 68 this week. I havn't struck an arc in 15 years at least. Hopefuly i'll get the same results. Good site too keep up for a while a pic is worth a lot!! One ? for the board is a plug weld ok or should i bead the whole perimeter of the panel???
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#14
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Thanks guys. I just made a few layout changes to the page, it was just a quick-n-dirty page I threw together, straightened it up some, added an email link.
[insert witty signature here]
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[insert witty signature here] |
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#15
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Thanks guys. I just made a few layout changes to the page, it was just a quick-n-dirty page I threw together, straightened it up some, added an email link.
[insert witty signature here]
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[insert witty signature here] |
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#16
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P455 - I just checked out your webpage on the floorpan replacement and it was excellent. You did a great job on your floor. I'm thinking of tackling my floor in my 65 seeing as how I've got some Mig welding experience . I already bought the full length floorpans.
Does anyone know how much it should cost for a floor replacement on both sides? http://home.earthlink.net/~uptons1/
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_________________________ _________________________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qZgOpn-w-o <<< Burnout Video ![]() ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Treat Me Good, I'll Treat You Better; Treat Me Bad, I'll Treat You Worse" Sonny Barger ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
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#17
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Give an idea of the process, here are some pics of my full-lenght floor pan replacement. I originally started on the left, but should have started the right - the center overlap required that the right to be in first.
1969 GTO Restoration
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#18
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#19
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That's quite a nice web site you have going there GDK_AL! Lots of info. I'm in the process of doing my floors on my 65 GTO now and can say with first hand experience that it's not an easy job when replacing the whole floor. Especially when I have to do it in stages so as not to cripple my car in my buddies body shop. It's probably taking longer than it normally would by doing it this way but he's been a great help in letting me do it there. I'm not sure whether I'm going to use POR15 on it since it's not going to see any real world weather for the rest of its life. (with me anyway)
http://home.earthlink.net/~uptons1/ <~~some pics of my 65 GTO
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_________________________ _________________________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qZgOpn-w-o <<< Burnout Video ![]() ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Treat Me Good, I'll Treat You Better; Treat Me Bad, I'll Treat You Worse" Sonny Barger ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
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#20
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Oh... did I say new Seat Mount Pans.. no, I bought some used ones off ebay. 2 good ones and 1 advertised as good, but bad (isnt ebay great.haha). And after all those $$$ spent.. you can by repops now. somebody just came out with them. And the rear seat and front seat braces are also available repop now. I dont know how good the quality over original is though and not sure who the manuf. is, but C.I. has the seat mount pans for the 67-69 fbird. And, the braces I saw in another catalog.. not sure which, but will find out if someone requests it. Thanks, for all the resoponse...Geo
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