[7T-GOAT]

Really hate to do this...I feel that people should be aware of this 1970 RA IV distributor I recently purchased sight unseen. It's an obvios re-stamp. I purchased it from a well know parts dealer in Holly, Michigan...enough said! I was returned my $750 without any problems(but not the exrta $20 for shipping it back...go figure.) I've been told by an other veteran parts dealer, that there is no way the seller of this distributor did not know what he was selling me. If I wanted a re-stamp I would have asked for one. Watch out for this #1112011 distributor, dated "9G9". Hope the picture comes through

[7T-GOAT]

Really hate to do this...I feel that people should be aware of this 1970 RA IV distributor I recently purchased sight unseen. It's an obvios re-stamp. I purchased it from a well know parts dealer in Holly, Michigan...enough said! I was returned my $750 without any problems(but not the exrta $20 for shipping it back...go figure.) I've been told by an other veteran parts dealer, that there is no way the seller of this distributor did not know what he was selling me. If I wanted a re-stamp I would have asked for one. Watch out for this #1112011 distributor, dated "9G9". Hope the picture comes through

[md1twal3]

Can you educate me on how you can tell it is a restamp? Is it the number font or ???

BTW...thanks for the info!

[7T-GOAT]

What I've learned is all distributors have a ridge that raps around the entire circumferance. It is about 1/2 an inch from the top edge. When you restamp you have to grind the surface down to remove the old number. The ridge removed when this is done. Look at any old Pontiac distributor and you will see the ridge that is missing on this one. On this one, the ridge can still be seen but only where the housing meets the vacuum advance mechanism. Any body else have any tell tale signs?

[steve v]

I would have questioned the different font on the last two numbers as they are clearly different than the first three #'s. I remember seeing that auction and asked the seller about the different style of #'s with no reply. Did the RA IV dist have a hardened drive gear on them?
Steve

[7T-GOAT]

Steve,

Your light years ahead of me...I have no idea if it did. I sent it back too fast to take a second look.

[BLKBRD]

The fonts are totally bogus. The first three "1" digits are the correct, but compare them to the last two. They are totally different. I've seen factory RA distributors that used one font for the part number and a different font for the date code.

[slowgto]

This photo is a '70 455 distributor.

ON this one the part number does use different fonts than the date code for the "1."

On the fake you can see he incorrectly used the date style "1" font for the last two digits in the part number.

[Ron Landis]

Very interesting and good to know. I'm still learning something new every day in this hobby. I have been fooled by re-stamps, myself. Looks like it may be going to a professional level, of sorts. I've heard horror stories about carburetors that have received a similar treatment. Seems a "numbers matching" car will soon need to be fully documented to be fully appreciated. Scary...huh?

[steve v]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jegstek:
Very interesting and good to know. I'm still learning something new every day in this hobby. I have been fooled by re-stamps, myself. Looks like it may be going to a professional level, of sorts. I've heard horror stories about carburetors that have received a similar treatment. Seems a "numbers matching" car will soon need to be fully documented to be fully appreciated. Scary...huh? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Unfortunately the guy's with the stamp sets learn these tips more quickly than the legit hobbyist do.
The strange part about restamps is the vette crowd hasn always considered it ok to restamp an engine block & then have it certified as Bloomington Gold???
The terms "original engine" & "numbers matching engine" don't always mean the same thing.
Steve

[roundportponchos]

I have 3 orig.s from my 70 RAIV cars. I also have a nos service dated one. I can post pic, if anyone needs, or email me @ [email protected]




<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve V:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jegstek:
Very interesting and good to know. I'm still learning something new every day in this hobby. I have been fooled by re-stamps, myself. Looks like it may be going to a professional level, of sorts. I've heard horror stories about carburetors that have received a similar treatment. Seems a "numbers matching" car will soon need to be fully documented to be fully appreciated. Scary...huh? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Unfortunately the guy's with the stamp sets learn these tips more quickly than the legit hobbyist do.
The strange part about restamps is the vette crowd hasn always considered it ok to restamp an engine block & then have it certified as Bloomington Gold???
The terms "original engine" & "numbers matching engine" don't always mean the same thing.
Steve </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[gto19]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by roundportroundup:
I have 3 orig.s from my 70 RAIV cars. I also have a nos service dated one. I can post pic, if anyone needs, or email me @ [email protected]



PLEASE POST HERE SO WE CAN SEE THE DIFERANCE

THANKS
ROUNDPORT ROUNDUP

[Uncle Judge]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve V:
I would have questioned the different font on the last two numbers as they are clearly different than the first three #'s. I remember seeing that auction and asked the seller about the different style of #'s with no reply. Did the RA IV dist have a hardened drive gear on them?
Steve </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Hello Guys,

I have been documenting real RAM AIR carbs and distributors for over 20 years now. I also have several RAIV cars. The type font shown in the photo above of the re-stamped distributor is indeed correct. All of the true "2011" distributors DO have the flagged (Number ones) following the "20" in the part number. The first set of ones are supposed to be different. The dead giveaway in the above re-stamp photo is both the location of the part number and date as well as the absence of the recessed ridge where the cap sits. Unfortunately, these re-stampers are getting enough info on legitimate ones and the fakes are getting more and more difficult to identify. Buyers beware. These people involved in re-stamping and selling any parts as originals are leaving every legitimate car and part in question. If I could figure out how to do it I would be willing to post real photos. I hate to do it for the sake of more unscrupulous forgeries however.

[7T-GOAT]

Thanks guys!!! Awesome information and widely appreciated.

[Ron Landis]

Hey, Unk, what are you referring to as "flagged" #1s. I would have assumed that to describe the 1 in the date code, but you are referring to the ones in the part #. What am I missing here. It sometimes takes me awhile.[lol]Ron

["Teacher]

Buttinsky for a moment. I think he means that the ones at the beginning of the number are just straight lines with no "flag", or serif, at the top of the one, while the second set of ones have the little "flag" at the top. If I read right, he is saying it is normal font to have the first three plain and the second ones serifed. Am I right?

[68 Ram Head]

Okay, I'm a little late here but the HOLLY MI caught my attention. I remember this guy telling me on the phone he could build me any rearend and stamp it so you could not tell. Of course I said No and stayed away from him. How many Venders can be in HOLLY MI. Again Buyer Beware and I would not buy a spark plug from him. Ram Head

[slowgto]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SlowGTO:
This photo is a '70 455 distributor.

ON this one the part number does use different fonts than the date code for the "1."

On the fake you can see he incorrectly used the date style "1" font for the last two digits in the part number. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Ok, I take this back, other posts say two fonts were used for the 1s in the part.

[gto19]

ok ,who is this vendor selling this stuff.we need to know so we dont get screwed

[roundportponchos]

Here's one of my orig. #1112011. They were light stamps.