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#1
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If you only change main bolts?? This may be a stupid question but I have a friend who is rebuilding his motor and wants to use an rear main baffle kit I have. This is only a set of studed bolts and a plate to help scrape the rear counter weight. He had a "shop" tell him he needed to hone/bore the mains. I thought you only needed to bore/hone the mains if you changed caps. Can some one clarify this for me/him ???
Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number ![]()
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#2
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If you only change main bolts?? This may be a stupid question but I have a friend who is rebuilding his motor and wants to use an rear main baffle kit I have. This is only a set of studed bolts and a plate to help scrape the rear counter weight. He had a "shop" tell him he needed to hone/bore the mains. I thought you only needed to bore/hone the mains if you changed caps. Can some one clarify this for me/him ???
Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number ![]()
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#3
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The dowel pins in the caps determine how they line up, not so much the bolts. Generally, the best way to determine if a line bore/hone will be necessary is to intall the main bearings and crank with plenty of assembly lube, tourque down the caps, and spin the crank. If it rotates freely, you're fine. If not, then it MUST be line bored. Just changing the bolts should not require a line bore.
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http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/mrpontiac@sbcglobal.net |
#4
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If you are using FACTORY Pontiac main cap BOLTS
you can interchange them in any position if the oil pan will clear, (This statement does not apply to the rear main bolts which are larger). If you exchange the BOLTS for STUDS (ARP) then you need to install the studs, Torque them to the STUD manufacturers specs with the lube they often recommend, and CHECK the bores for roundness. If the bores are not round, the bearings do not have the correct clearances, etc, THEN you need to have the block Align honed. If you install DIFFERENT main caps on your block MOST times you will have to have the block BORED and then align honed. Moving around factory bolts normally is not an issue requiring cap remachining. Tom V. ![]()
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#5
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This is an item I got from Warrior. It consists of two new rear main bolts that have small studs on the top to fasten the baffle to. So bacically it's the same as putting in a new set of factory rear main cap bolts.
Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number ![]()
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#6
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Warning!!!!!!
I have seen Warrior selling that crap for years and would NEVER use a bolt that had been welded to another bolt. Makes both bolts brittle. I believe the bolts you are describing go on the number 4 main. Have never seen a windage tray mounted on the rear main cap (unless it was on a early 389 or a Ram Air V type engine). All typical windage trays mount off the #2 and #4 main caps. Do what you want but not me. Maybe Larry, a very knowledgable welder can add more to this. Tom V. ![]()
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#7
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I believe that is a plate that scrapes the oil off the rear crank throw.
johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com ![]()
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by johnta1:
I believe that is a plate that scrapes the oil off the rear crank throw. johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com http://wallaceracing.com/johnta1plate.jpg <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> You are correct... Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number ![]()
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
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