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#1
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I dropped my block, crank, cam, timing chain, oil pump, pistons, rods, etc off at my mechanics place. Its now offically time to start putting together the shortblock. Does anybody have any 'tricks of the trade' that they'd like to share with me? I'm having the heads ported as well, any advice for those such as screw in studs, bronze valve guides, valve springs etc? I'll be running a RAIV cam with 1.65 rockers. Would shot-peening my stock rods (w/ARP bolts) increase their strength enough to savely rev to 5500rpm? How about ARP Main bolts, yes or no? I'm sure any precaution is better than no precaution...so any advice appreciated. Thanks
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2001 Camaro Z28 M6: [email protected] stock cam, stock heads, stock rear, stock clutch |
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#2
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I dropped my block, crank, cam, timing chain, oil pump, pistons, rods, etc off at my mechanics place. Its now offically time to start putting together the shortblock. Does anybody have any 'tricks of the trade' that they'd like to share with me? I'm having the heads ported as well, any advice for those such as screw in studs, bronze valve guides, valve springs etc? I'll be running a RAIV cam with 1.65 rockers. Would shot-peening my stock rods (w/ARP bolts) increase their strength enough to savely rev to 5500rpm? How about ARP Main bolts, yes or no? I'm sure any precaution is better than no precaution...so any advice appreciated. Thanks
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2001 Camaro Z28 M6: [email protected] stock cam, stock heads, stock rear, stock clutch |
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#3
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400 OR 455 OR ???
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
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#4
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455 of course, What would be the point in running anything else [img]tongue.gif[/img]
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2001 Camaro Z28 M6: [email protected] stock cam, stock heads, stock rear, stock clutch |
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#5
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Never can go wrong with ARP.Pricey but WELL WORTH IT.
And make sure all oil galley plug are put back in.
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It run's. NO REALLY !!!! Ok you can stop laughing NOW.Has anyone seen where I put my BEER down!!!! |
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#6
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Hi,
Some great tips on rebuilding your engine can be found on "http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/archives/tech/". Jim Taylor shows you how the job is performed on a 425hp 455HO. |
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#7
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Prep the stock rods and use a light weight piston such as an JE or SRP. Rods will be fine. I would check into using a more modern camshaft, possible a hydralic roller from Comp cams. That RA 4 profile is out dated.
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#8
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Quote:
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2001 Camaro Z28 M6: [email protected] stock cam, stock heads, stock rear, stock clutch |
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#9
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73TA,
Please explain to me how the RA4 cam is outdated.Then I can go back to my friends,Bob Cook and Nolan Parker that run the Ram Air 4 cams and tell them that is why they are only running 11.80's in a 64 GTO street car and 12.27 in a street driven 4000# 77 Can Am. |
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#10
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It's not outdated Floyd. Some folks would like you to belive that though, possibly to sell you a "modern" cam. If it works, why fix it, right?
My shortblock consists of cast rods that have been 'peened and beams polished, swinging a set of lightweight JE pistons, and balanced. Hasn't given me one lick of trouble in 4 years and doesn't smoke (of course, having the block filled has probably helped a bit with ring seal). Typical shifts are at 5400-5500, but occasionally it has been against the rev limiter at 5800 on burnouts (and when I blew up a convertor on a nitrous pass). For the 2-bolt mains, it doesn't hurt to go with studs, even at 400-450 HP levels. The R.A. IV cam will work fine, having enough vacuum for power brakes shouldn't be an issue. I was running a Comp 280AH10 with standard lifters and was still pulling 10-11" of vacuum at idle (plenty for the power brakes in my T/A).
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
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#11
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Floyd,
We have to get that 12.00 Ram Air 4 cam out of there and put in one of the new cams that run 14.00 on a good day. No one goes fast with that OLD stuff except the old guys! Hum? Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#12
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Tom,
I guess that I didn't read that West Coast Rag good enought. The way that I see it, the tech writers are only as good as the info they receive. |
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#13
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Ahem,
Ram IV cams and Main Cap bolts will serve ya'll quite well. Reuse your #4 thrust bearing if it looks close to decent. Roller cams and main studs are for those with loose money and loose plans. H.I. Stud
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95 Towncar that needs more TQ. Sold 2023: 12.24/111.6MPH/1.76 60'/28"/3.54:1/SP-TH400/469 R96A/236-244-112LC/1050&TorkerI//3850Lbs//15MPG/89oct Sold 2003: 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60'/26"x3.31:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Q-Jet-Torker/3650Lbs//18MPG 94oct Sold 1994: 11.00/123MPH/1.50 60'/29.5"x4.10:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Dual600s-Wenzler/3250Lbs//94oct |
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#14
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I meant out dated as in I think the way to go is with a roller profile. I'm very impressed with mine as compared to the many non rollers I've run in previous motors. Better vacuum at idle and a lot less lumpy idle.
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#15
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By the way Tom, I used to run the RA IV cam and I am an old guy 46.
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#16
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The RA-1V cam has been around for 33 years now and i expect it will be around for many more. I think i have installed 10 of the RA-1V cams over the years, i always liked the RA-1V cam on the street. It was designed for the 400" but runs sweet in the 455".
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"Three may keep a secret, if two are dead" ~ Benjamin Franklin ~ |
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#17
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H-I-S
Quote: "Ahem" Still got the GOAT stuck in your throat I see! Everyone, Not running down Roller stuff. Just think that a LOT of guys would be happy with a RA4 cam for a lot less money. I used to run the "5 inches of vacuum - high lift cams" and they really sounded great at the drive-in and ran good at the track. Then I got tired of the harrassment by the boys in blue and the chicken $hi* tickets (felt like john milner) and put a milder cam in the car and ran almost as fast with my "stealth" camshaft. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#18
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could any of you guys recommend a main bolt for me? I cant find any ARP 2 bolt main bolts...any ideas?
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2001 Camaro Z28 M6: [email protected] stock cam, stock heads, stock rear, stock clutch |
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#19
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as far as recommending a bolt, just give ARP a call. I bought their main studs (loose money and loose plans) and needed help with studs for windage tray application. They were very helpful and fixed me up right over the phone. Great company.
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So let me get this straight: Your Honda has 1.6 liters and my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2? |
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#20
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you got a # for ARP? Thanks for all your help guys. I just won a bid on NOS RAIV 1.65 stamped steel rockers, I know Rollers would be better but like I said this is a budget buildup [img]tongue.gif[/img]
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2001 Camaro Z28 M6: [email protected] stock cam, stock heads, stock rear, stock clutch |
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