Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #21  
Old 04-17-2003, 02:04 PM
DAVE RIBEIRO DAVE RIBEIRO is offline
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Rumair,

Sounds like your good to go...I am sure your
friend will be able to help you out..I think that
2" to start is fine..Just have you friend help you set the preload on the bars with you sitting in the car...Good Luck...Dave..1033/stock

  #22  
Old 04-17-2003, 03:50 PM
Bartman Bartman is offline
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BTW did you get the axle tubes welded to the housing. If you didn't then it will probably slip even more and you'll be back at square one.
Bartman

Ponies run but Birds fly

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  #23  
Old 04-17-2003, 07:01 PM
rumair rumair is offline
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bart- i forgot to mention that the tubes were not turned in the housing. i did have 4 spot welds added on each side to be extra safe.

tonight i was finally educated on how the l-shaped bolts fit into the bars. we couldn't find the bolts that go over the springs to pull up the bump stops. after i measure the holes on the traction bars, i'm going to go to a spring shop first thing tomorrow morning to get some custom bolts made. hopefully all will be right with the world before noon tomorrow...thank goodness i have the day off.

97 Trans Am WS6
Best ET: 12.13
Best MPH 114.6
74 Formula 455
Best ET: 11.97
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  #24  
Old 04-18-2003, 05:49 PM
PROBRD PROBRD is offline
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You might get away with a few spot welds around the tubes with slapper bars but if you go to ladder bars or a 4 link they need to be welded all the way around. Been through that whole deal before. Just keep a close eye on the tubes. Put a mark on the housing and one on the tubes and check it regularly.

440:
1/8th mile 6.56 @ 104
1/4 mile 10.43 @ 127
400:
1/8 mile 6.86 @ 99

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455:
1/8th mile 6.52 @ 104
1/4 mile 10.43 @ 128
  #25  
Old 04-19-2003, 08:11 AM
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455HOGT37 455HOGT37 is offline
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rumair-

I think in the long run, a set of dedicated race shocks will be helpful in the rear, but the pep boys specials you have are a huge improvement over what you had.

Because you are running slicks, I would take the effort to extend the bars the two inches to the front spring eye. That is a big hit, and you want it to transmit directly to the mass of the car, not through a quarter inch of spring steel first. Because of this, I would consider a stiffer bushing in the front of the spring as well, poly or even solid. Also, the spring is forced to wrap under load... the traction bar hitting short of the spring eye only makes this worse. Ensure the front of the bars are tied to the springs so they don't dig in to the track as the housing rotates the other way under braking. Also, as an extra precaution, find good U-bolts to tie the axle tube, spring and traction bar together. If you only use the T-bolts, ALL the load is on the welds on the perches... Lose the welds, lose everything. With U-bolts, the load is transfered to them and the perches become more of a locator, not a critical "single point failure" item.

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